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Old 01-02-2012, 07:58 PM   #41
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On another note. I should be getting my Turbo back Wednesday, it just needs to be overnighted from Japan. So I will be driving that car for the time being once it is together Wednesday evening.
Yea right turbos are at a prime the day before race wars.
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:07 PM   #42
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*Pull a premium one week before race wars

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A couple of Nissan SR20's would pull a premium one week before race wars.
-Thread crapped
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:12 PM   #43
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No word that MT.net allows me to use describes you. So this picture will suffice.
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Old 01-05-2012, 04:43 PM   #44
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Subframe is out. Also the other 17mm diff bolt came right off without any issues. I now just need to get the ppf off the diff. Then I take it all up to the shop and talk to them about it. I might end up with a 1.8 diff if the price is right.

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Old 01-05-2012, 09:27 PM   #45
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I will be the proud owner of a 1.8 diff tomorrow afternoon. Hopefully installing everything goes decently.
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:35 PM   #46
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I will be the proud owner of a 1.8 diff tomorrow afternoon. Hopefully installing everything goes decently.
Torsen or open?
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:41 PM   #47
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doesnt know. will firgure it out once he gets it. still a good deal on a complete rear swap.
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Old 01-06-2012, 06:25 PM   #48
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New sub frame and diff out of a 96. Is there any way to to tell while it is off the car if it is a torsen or not?

It should get installed tomorrow morning.
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Old 01-06-2012, 07:37 PM   #49
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Look through the hole where the axles pop in. Or take a clear, sharp and well-lit picture and post here.
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Old 01-06-2012, 07:55 PM   #50
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Look through the hole where the axles pop in. Or take a clear, sharp and well-lit picture and post here.
Will do in the morning.
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Old 01-07-2012, 09:28 PM   #51
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Same thing happened to me recently
The whine turns into a lurch, then it'll clunk itself to death, which looks like this
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Old 01-08-2012, 08:54 AM   #52
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^ Impressive - you did that one with style... and you thought you broke yours Lars
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Old 01-08-2012, 10:41 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
Is there any way to to tell while it is off the car if it is a torsen or not?
NA8 open:


NA8 torsen:


NB2 T-F LSD:
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Old 01-08-2012, 10:51 AM   #54
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NA8 open:
Mine looks just like that. So I guess it is an open diff. Not like it matters since it is in my DD.

Currently the new sub frame is installed in the car. It just has no lower control arms on it. I am working on pulling the lower control arms off my old sub frame. Right now the long bolt is stuck and I am running out of ideas on how to get it out.
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Old 01-08-2012, 11:01 AM   #55
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Prybar on the inside of the bolt head. Hit prybar with hammer. Once the bolt starts to move, person 1 spins bolt with impact, person 2 inserts long phillips screwdriver into a-arm and continues hitting with hammer.
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Old 01-08-2012, 12:06 PM   #56
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Looks like you ended up with a 1.8 diff after all lululululul

How is the bolt stuck? Does it spin or is it so bad it won't spin? This happened on both of my subframes. On one it wouldn't spin, on the other it at least spun.

If it doesn't spin you will need heat, and impact, and a hammer. If it will spin you should only need a hammer and impact. The bolt will also be destroyed so might as well go and grab them from mazda. Or order them, they are like $10 a piece. You could try lowes but their bolts are cheap as ---- and I wouldn't trust them.

You need to go in both directions with the impact. Forward and reverse. This is what finally got mine to come out. While you are hitting it with the impact you need to be hitting it with a hammer. Also stop every once in a while to spray it with some liquid wrench stuff. You can apply heat if you have a torch, that will speed things up and may save the bolt.
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Old 01-08-2012, 02:29 PM   #57
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I vote that you pull one plug and one injector and run the car on three cylinders to make sure your new diff lives forever.
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Old 01-08-2012, 03:07 PM   #58
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Faefairy is back yay
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Old 01-08-2012, 03:41 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FRT_Fun View Post
Looks like you ended up with a 1.8 diff after all lululululul

How is the bolt stuck? Does it spin or is it so bad it won't spin? This happened on both of my subframes. On one it wouldn't spin, on the other it at least spun.

If it doesn't spin you will need heat, and impact, and a hammer. If it will spin you should only need a hammer and impact. The bolt will also be destroyed so might as well go and grab them from mazda. Or order them, they are like $10 a piece. You could try lowes but their bolts are cheap as ---- and I wouldn't trust them.

You need to go in both directions with the impact. Forward and reverse. This is what finally got mine to come out. While you are hitting it with the impact you need to be hitting it with a hammer. Also stop every once in a while to spray it with some liquid wrench stuff. You can apply heat if you have a torch, that will speed things up and may save the bolt.
It is stuck so bad it will not spin. I will be hitting it with the blow torch again in a little bit. In all honesty I will prob cut through the olds ones and just order new ones.

Last edited by shuiend; 01-08-2012 at 03:53 PM.
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Old 01-08-2012, 04:15 PM   #60
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If it's stuck to the point of frozen you will have to destroy it to get it loose anyways. I hit mine so hard with a hammer the end was flattened to the point a nut wouldn't fit anymore, and it bent quite a bit. If you have a helper have them beat on it with a hammer while you switch between forward and reverse with the impact after heating it.
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