My review of Riceland coilovers
#124
Boost Czar
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Assuming the main spring is 6":
Since the QA1s are longer yet lighter you shouldn't have issue with the ride height. We can do the math to test that theory.
The 90-97 motion ratio in the rear is .735. That means if you lower the spring height by 1" you lower the body by 1.265".
It also takes 350 lbs of weight to compress the supplied spring 1". Now assuming a lot of stuff, and that 530 lbs. is put to the rear corners the 6" 350 lb/in spring will compress 1.5" from the get go, leaving you with a spring that's only 4.5" tall with load. If you fit a 250 lb/in rear springs at 7" the same weight of 530 lbs. will compress it 2.12" leaving you with a 4.88" spring with load.
That means, with all things being equal, if you threw on a set of new 250 lb/in 7" rear springs the body would sit .48" higher...and I'm sure there's plenty of room to adjust it down some from there.
Since the QA1s are longer yet lighter you shouldn't have issue with the ride height. We can do the math to test that theory.
The 90-97 motion ratio in the rear is .735. That means if you lower the spring height by 1" you lower the body by 1.265".
It also takes 350 lbs of weight to compress the supplied spring 1". Now assuming a lot of stuff, and that 530 lbs. is put to the rear corners the 6" 350 lb/in spring will compress 1.5" from the get go, leaving you with a spring that's only 4.5" tall with load. If you fit a 250 lb/in rear springs at 7" the same weight of 530 lbs. will compress it 2.12" leaving you with a 4.88" spring with load.
That means, with all things being equal, if you threw on a set of new 250 lb/in 7" rear springs the body would sit .48" higher...and I'm sure there's plenty of room to adjust it down some from there.
#125
When you order springs get a length that will get rid of that heavy helper spring. I'd start with 7" springs f/r. I would try higher rated fronts first. If they suck sell them and go lower in the rear. Make sure you use the fatcat calculator before ordering and that you put the sway bar combo in that you are eventually going to run, rather than having to order new springs after you install sway bars. Make sure you have a rear bar calculated in, that way if it rains at the track you can take it off for additional tuning. The NB racelands will not clear a na top hat without using a file on the inner whole. They also do not come with tophats. At a 12" ride height on the racelands how much travel is there? If your going to change the springs I'd just order the NA coilovers on the off chance the shock bodies are shorter...
#126
When you order springs get a length that will get rid of that heavy helper spring. I'd start with 7" springs f/r. I would try higher rated fronts first. If they suck sell them and go lower in the rear. Make sure you use the fatcat calculator before ordering and that you put the sway bar combo in that you are eventually going to run, rather than having to order new springs after you install sway bars. Make sure you have a rear bar calculated in, that way if it rains at the track you can take it off for additional tuning. The NB racelands will not clear a na top hat without using a file on the inner whole. They also do not come with tophats. At a 12" ride height on the racelands how much travel is there? If your going to change the springs I'd just order the NA coilovers on the off chance the shock bodies are shorter...
I like the idea of starting with the NB springs which are 425 and just lowering the rear to 200-250 or so. That shouldn't pose a threat to the shock, though it may wind up over-damped.
So does everyone else think that going with the NA set over the NB set is the way to go if changing springs? I wouldn't have to buy top-hats if I went NA, but I'd lose the extra 25lbs on the front spring.
I don't ever plan on dropping the car lower than 13". I wonder which set would have more shock travel left at that height.
#127
Luls, I've been trying to find more info about the riceland coilover sets, and for every post I find that has a tiny amount of info, I find at least twenty that are full of people yelling and screaming about how they MUST be awful and they MUST fall apart because they are Chinese knock offs.
Why are people so damned sensitive? ****, I paid $1000 for my car to replace the $1300 car I got crushed by a tractor trailer. The only reason I can own a sports car is because I found some that are as cheap as dirt. Think I'll go ahead and put on $272 worth of suspension. It's got to be better than stock 160k mile stuff.
I'm cheap as **** but try not to just throw away money, these sets are cheap as ****, and I can't find issues where they fail and are a waste of money. Match made in heaven.
Once again, I love this place.
Why are people so damned sensitive? ****, I paid $1000 for my car to replace the $1300 car I got crushed by a tractor trailer. The only reason I can own a sports car is because I found some that are as cheap as dirt. Think I'll go ahead and put on $272 worth of suspension. It's got to be better than stock 160k mile stuff.
I'm cheap as **** but try not to just throw away money, these sets are cheap as ****, and I can't find issues where they fail and are a waste of money. Match made in heaven.
Once again, I love this place.
#130
Call to racelands owers: How long is the compressed helper spring, and the washer/coupler that goes between the helper and main spring?
#131
Boost Czar
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Going by my math, the difference in spring height of the 350# 5.5" and 250# 7" is .88". with the helpers you'd need to be able to adjust down about an inch from where your ride height was currently set.
The helpers in the rear appear to compress down to 2" judging by the pics I had posted.
The helpers in the rear appear to compress down to 2" judging by the pics I had posted.
#132
Here are the 250lb 7" 2.5 ID
QA1 Precision Products 7-250 - QA1 Racing Springs - Overview - SummitRacing.com
QA1 Precision Products 7-250 - QA1 Racing Springs - Overview - SummitRacing.com
#135
QA1 Precision Products 8CS250 - QA1 Racing Springs - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Thats $70 each o_O
http://store.allsprings.com/shared/S...rce=googlebase
"Racing Springs" $58.99 each
Thats $70 each o_O
http://store.allsprings.com/shared/S...rce=googlebase
"Racing Springs" $58.99 each
#136
Boost Czar
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lamerskates!
how about these apples: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HAL-9-220/
9" @ 220# with 530 lbs. of weight will compress down to 6.5". If the 5.5" compresses to 4" with load plus the 2" or so of the helper springs....you're looking at .5" taller. give or take
how about these apples: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HAL-9-220/
9" @ 220# with 530 lbs. of weight will compress down to 6.5". If the 5.5" compresses to 4" with load plus the 2" or so of the helper springs....you're looking at .5" taller. give or take
#139
lamerskates!
how about these apples: QA1 Precision Products 9-220 - QA1 Racing Springs - Overview - SummitRacing.com
9" @ 220# with 530 lbs. of weight will compress down to 6.5". If the 5.5" compresses to 4" with load plus the 2" or so of the helper springs....you're looking at .5" taller. give or take
how about these apples: QA1 Precision Products 9-220 - QA1 Racing Springs - Overview - SummitRacing.com
9" @ 220# with 530 lbs. of weight will compress down to 6.5". If the 5.5" compresses to 4" with load plus the 2" or so of the helper springs....you're looking at .5" taller. give or take
So, with those estimates, it might be 1.5" higher with the new spring, which is doable.
What, besides losing a little dead weight, is the advantage of losing the helper springs for a longer main spring?