My review of Riceland coilovers - Page 7 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 03-09-2010, 12:15 AM   #121
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Originally Posted by rider384 View Post
This.
+1, I think I will order this, but i don't know what rates I want, ill watch this thread and see what I think i want to go with. Should i just grab 250's for the rear? Or should o go stiffer and get 550's for the front and keep the rear?
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Old 03-09-2010, 12:28 AM   #122
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I'd ask for the 425s in the front and put 250s or 5-4 kg/mm in the rear. ebay tends to have some listed from time to time, otherwise 7" qa1s are $37.88 each.
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Old 03-09-2010, 12:46 AM   #123
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I'd ask for the 425s in the front and put 250s or 5-4 kg/mm in the rear. ebay tends to have some listed from time to time, otherwise 7" qa1s are $37.88 each.
FTW. I'll do it, I will order once i pay my taxes.
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Old 03-09-2010, 10:07 AM   #124
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Assuming the main spring is 6":

Since the QA1s are longer yet lighter you shouldn't have issue with the ride height. We can do the math to test that theory.

The 90-97 motion ratio in the rear is .735. That means if you lower the spring height by 1" you lower the body by 1.265".

It also takes 350 lbs of weight to compress the supplied spring 1". Now assuming a lot of stuff, and that 530 lbs. is put to the rear corners the 6" 350 lb/in spring will compress 1.5" from the get go, leaving you with a spring that's only 4.5" tall with load. If you fit a 250 lb/in rear springs at 7" the same weight of 530 lbs. will compress it 2.12" leaving you with a 4.88" spring with load.

That means, with all things being equal, if you threw on a set of new 250 lb/in 7" rear springs the body would sit .48" higher...and I'm sure there's plenty of room to adjust it down some from there.
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Old 03-09-2010, 01:46 PM   #125
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When you order springs get a length that will get rid of that heavy helper spring. I'd start with 7" springs f/r. I would try higher rated fronts first. If they suck sell them and go lower in the rear. Make sure you use the fatcat calculator before ordering and that you put the sway bar combo in that you are eventually going to run, rather than having to order new springs after you install sway bars. Make sure you have a rear bar calculated in, that way if it rains at the track you can take it off for additional tuning. The NB racelands will not clear a na top hat without using a file on the inner whole. They also do not come with tophats. At a 12" ride height on the racelands how much travel is there? If your going to change the springs I'd just order the NA coilovers on the off chance the shock bodies are shorter...
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Old 03-09-2010, 02:13 PM   #126
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Originally Posted by jacob300zx View Post
When you order springs get a length that will get rid of that heavy helper spring. I'd start with 7" springs f/r. I would try higher rated fronts first. If they suck sell them and go lower in the rear. Make sure you use the fatcat calculator before ordering and that you put the sway bar combo in that you are eventually going to run, rather than having to order new springs after you install sway bars. Make sure you have a rear bar calculated in, that way if it rains at the track you can take it off for additional tuning. The NB racelands will not clear a na top hat without using a file on the inner whole. They also do not come with tophats. At a 12" ride height on the racelands how much travel is there? If your going to change the springs I'd just order the NA coilovers on the off chance the shock bodies are shorter...
Jacob, from my understanding, running higher springs on shocks will blow the shock if it can't handle the spring. At that point even if you switch to lower rated springs, you'd still have blown shocks.

I like the idea of starting with the NB springs which are 425 and just lowering the rear to 200-250 or so. That shouldn't pose a threat to the shock, though it may wind up over-damped.


So does everyone else think that going with the NA set over the NB set is the way to go if changing springs? I wouldn't have to buy top-hats if I went NA, but I'd lose the extra 25lbs on the front spring.

I don't ever plan on dropping the car lower than 13". I wonder which set would have more shock travel left at that height.
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Old 03-09-2010, 07:21 PM   #127
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Luls, I've been trying to find more info about the riceland coilover sets, and for every post I find that has a tiny amount of info, I find at least twenty that are full of people yelling and screaming about how they MUST be awful and they MUST fall apart because they are Chinese knock offs.

Why are people so damned sensitive? ****, I paid $1000 for my car to replace the $1300 car I got crushed by a tractor trailer. The only reason I can own a sports car is because I found some that are as cheap as dirt. Think I'll go ahead and put on $272 worth of suspension. It's got to be better than stock 160k mile stuff.

I'm cheap as **** but try not to just throw away money, these sets are cheap as ****, and I can't find issues where they fail and are a waste of money. Match made in heaven.

Once again, I love this place.
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Old 03-09-2010, 08:56 PM   #128
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Got a response back about the spring size:

The main spring inner diameter is 2.5" and 5.5" in length.


Thank you,

Raceland USA


So, pretty much, I'll be looking for springs between 200 and 250 on ebay.

Werd.
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Old 03-09-2010, 11:00 PM   #129
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That or get QA1 springs from Summit Racing. $38 a piece and reportedly a reliable brand. They have several rates in 2.5" i.d. in several lengths.
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Old 03-10-2010, 10:33 AM   #130
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That or get QA1 springs from Summit Racing. $38 a piece and reportedly a reliable brand. They have several rates in 2.5" i.d. in several lengths.
Unfortunately the shortest springs they have are 7". Probably okay if we were to remove the helper springs, as the helper springs compressed, are probably about an inch and a half (WAG).

Call to racelands owers: How long is the compressed helper spring, and the washer/coupler that goes between the helper and main spring?
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Old 03-10-2010, 10:37 AM   #131
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Going by my math, the difference in spring height of the 350# 5.5" and 250# 7" is .88". with the helpers you'd need to be able to adjust down about an inch from where your ride height was currently set.

The helpers in the rear appear to compress down to 2" judging by the pics I had posted.
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Old 03-10-2010, 11:27 AM   #132
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Old 03-10-2010, 11:28 AM   #133
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you could buy the 8" or maybe 9" and completely remove the helpers....
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Old 03-10-2010, 11:31 AM   #134
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
you could buy the 8" or maybe 9" and completely remove the helpers....
^this.
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Old 03-10-2010, 11:35 AM   #135
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Old 03-10-2010, 11:35 AM   #136
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lamerskates!


how about these apples: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HAL-9-220/


9" @ 220# with 530 lbs. of weight will compress down to 6.5". If the 5.5" compresses to 4" with load plus the 2" or so of the helper springs....you're looking at .5" taller. give or take
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Old 03-10-2010, 11:43 AM   #137
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You tell me Im just posting options so you can tell me which one to go with
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Old 03-10-2010, 11:46 AM   #138
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It really works best if you go out and measure in the real world. But I'm thinking those 9" 220 lb/in springs might work well without the helper springs in place.
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Old 03-10-2010, 12:11 PM   #139
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
lamerskates!


how about these apples: QA1 Precision Products 9-220 - QA1 Racing Springs - Overview - SummitRacing.com


9" @ 220# with 530 lbs. of weight will compress down to 6.5". If the 5.5" compresses to 4" with load plus the 2" or so of the helper springs....you're looking at .5" taller. give or take
Unscientifically judging by the pics earlier in the thread where you see the helper spring compressed, if the shock is about 2.5" across, the compressed helper spring is about half of that (1.25") realistically, if the spring has a 2.5 ID, then the shock body must really be a little smaller, so that number drops down to about an inch.

So, with those estimates, it might be 1.5" higher with the new spring, which is doable.

What, besides losing a little dead weight, is the advantage of losing the helper springs for a longer main spring?
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Old 03-10-2010, 12:21 PM   #140
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Originally Posted by oilstain View Post
What, besides losing a little dead weight, is the advantage of losing the helper springs for a longer main spring?

Better balance between the front and rear rates. That's what this thread is been all about mainly, not getting rid of the helper spring. -__-

Edit: I think the ans to your question in in post #124
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