Pick some pads for me please
Some ricers are impressed by fake cardboard "roll cages".
Without trying to start a new thread... I have a set of Hawk HP+ in right now. Do I need to get new rotors for a new transfer layer when I switch to HT-10 pads? Or can I swap them in and out for the drive to the track?
For cheap, just swap them in.
If you want slightly better braking and better pad life, have the rotors turned, but then you couldn't (shouldn't) use the HP+s again.
To do this "right", label the rotors and pads with a sharpie for left/right, and keep the current rotors with the HP+s, and get new rotors for the HT-10s.
If you want slightly better braking and better pad life, have the rotors turned, but then you couldn't (shouldn't) use the HP+s again.
To do this "right", label the rotors and pads with a sharpie for left/right, and keep the current rotors with the HP+s, and get new rotors for the HT-10s.
My theory is that not all pads have uniform stiffness across their entire surface. As you use the brakes, the rotor eats into the softer stuff, and the hard parts of the pad eat into the rotor. This makes your rotor into some what of a LP, with a bunch of different grooves.
New pads will ride on top of the rotor grooves, reducing a lot of the surface area that the pads have to grip.
At least that's how I've always imagined it in my head.
New pads will ride on top of the rotor grooves, reducing a lot of the surface area that the pads have to grip.
At least that's how I've always imagined it in my head.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
chris101
Miata parts for sale/trade
2
Oct 9, 2015 09:08 AM









