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Pick some pads for me please

Old Mar 24, 2011 | 05:05 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Faeflora
Squeal will make everyone think I am a ricer dumbass and my brakes need to be replaced.
If you have performance pads that squeal a bit, this will gain you respect from those that do high performance driving as opposed to ricers.

Some ricers are impressed by fake cardboard "roll cages".
Old Mar 24, 2011 | 05:16 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by sjmarcy
If you have performance pads that squeal a bit, this will gain you respect from those that do high performance driving as opposed to ricers.

Some ricers are impressed by fake cardboard "roll cages".
Actually I don't really care about anyone respecting me. Personally, I like to hear pleasant noises when I drive like "vroom vroom". And "whirrr" and "pshh" and "woo woo woo wooo".
Old Mar 27, 2011 | 04:45 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by sjmarcy
Armorall Wheel Protectant actually works quite well. Apply every few weeks and you'll endure very little dust or dirt on your wheels. Might help you use a more aggressive pad...

speaks truth...
Old Mar 27, 2011 | 08:52 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by jOshiro33
speaks truth...
We just had lots of pollen from the trees / flowers here in NC. Your car turns yellowish in about 2 hours. But not my wheels with the wheel protectant. Would make a cool picture as the car is black. Yellow dust everywhere except the wheels!
Old Mar 27, 2011 | 09:53 PM
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Without trying to start a new thread... I have a set of Hawk HP+ in right now. Do I need to get new rotors for a new transfer layer when I switch to HT-10 pads? Or can I swap them in and out for the drive to the track?
Old Mar 27, 2011 | 11:53 PM
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For cheap, just swap them in.

If you want slightly better braking and better pad life, have the rotors turned, but then you couldn't (shouldn't) use the HP+s again.

To do this "right", label the rotors and pads with a sharpie for left/right, and keep the current rotors with the HP+s, and get new rotors for the HT-10s.
Old Mar 28, 2011 | 09:45 AM
  #47  
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Is there a noticeable difference? Or is it something only an elite drive would notice?
Old Mar 28, 2011 | 10:04 AM
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the main issue is the bedding of the pads to the rotors.
Old Mar 28, 2011 | 10:49 AM
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My theory is that not all pads have uniform stiffness across their entire surface. As you use the brakes, the rotor eats into the softer stuff, and the hard parts of the pad eat into the rotor. This makes your rotor into some what of a LP, with a bunch of different grooves.

New pads will ride on top of the rotor grooves, reducing a lot of the surface area that the pads have to grip.

At least that's how I've always imagined it in my head.
Old Mar 28, 2011 | 12:25 PM
  #50  
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That's what I've always thought. I was just unsure if there is some sort of chemical(?) advantage to using dedicated rotors and pads.
Old Apr 1, 2011 | 01:21 AM
  #51  
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carbotech xp10 front, xp8 rear, they dust but it's non corrosive and they are all you'll ever need if you have 1.8 brakes, even on lapping days
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