LOL. The shelves of trophies would seem to indicate that poseur status = not found.

 

I like your avatar.

 

when it's warm out i have almost no issues with 195/55/14 t1rs and 4:10 gears. the little extra tire diameter helped quite a bit

 

Try 300+ ft-lbs at 2000 rpm. And when I had 260 ft-lbs with my FMII+50 shot, I spun through second on T1S 215-40-16s. I'm beginning to think your 240 whp on a 2554 at 10 psi or whatever was on a slightly optimistic dyno.

Frank

 

Haha , it was a little sarcasm...just like the sarcasm in ThePass's posts

 

you need a tuneup or a clutch then... i break loose in 2nd from a roll on the same shoes.

 

"I can't floor it in first...without spinning tire"

He can not floor it without spinning tires, conversely, when he does floor it in first he spins tires.

"i break loose in 2nd from a roll on the same shoes"

You break loose in 2nd from a roll. Sounds like the same issue to me...

 

Neither guy can drive?

 

I've been thinking that, but it made 212 hp on a Dyno Dynamics which was known to read about 10-11% low, and a '99 with the same setup but better exhaust made 217 hp. BEGI has a plot on their website of a 2554 making 240 hp on a DD.

Regarding wheel weight, the irony is that lighter weight really helps on bumps, and most tracks are far smoother than many roads (if you don't hit the berms); so unless you are competing or going after the last 10ths of a second the light weight doesn't have much effect.

Like I said, pose away, I'd do it too, bec 225's just look damn good

Oh, and I can feel the weight difference on certain types of bumps, between my superlight SSR + RE01's, vs the 15x8's + 225 RA-1's. It's the sort of the same feeling live rear axles get when going over certain types of bumps, but smaller.

 

P.S. it's the peak torque mulitplied by gear and diff ratio divided by tire diameter that spins tires. 14 psi will more likely spin tires than 10 psi

 

I've got 225 RA-1s on 6ULs for the street but it would be nice to stick some fat 245-40 or something on the back for straightline performance if I wanted to. I suppose if I want to hit the strip (to pose) I could get some MT Street drag radials in 225-50 for the rear. Remember with my LS6 swap the traction limitations from a standstill will be evident. 3.42 rear.

Frank

 

't <-- I must have missed that.

frank, dont be a douche.

 

I used to mob around on 185/60s on 5.5" daisies. The ability to turn the rears into smoke whenever I wanted was a real hoot. It was an awesome sleeper, too - I destroyed some poor soul in an E46 M3 on the daisies.

 

but you can spin it say that since he's not breaking loose in 2nd like you, he's inferior!!!!

 

hell ive broken traction in downshifting to third at 50 mph on my 225's i could imagine if i ran less tire how much more squiriming i would have to contend with.

 

Wheel and tire weight has EVERYTHING to do with accelerating and decelerating.

Or were you joking?

 

Honestly, I think that the Tire Rack choice for a daily driver is exactly wrong. It might not be so important to some to have the last bit of speed on a Miata, but everyone can appreciate what lower unsprung mass does for the car... cheaping out here means losing the light, nimble, willing, eager feel of the car, and that's a real loss.

 

Yes, apparently since I have grip in 2nd gear and not 1st, my torques are all screwed up, lol.

In all honesty, I know that part of my problem is too much rear camber, as in, it is decreasing my available contact patch. Not worth dealing with until it warms back up around March, as the 195/55/15 Blizzaks on my wide-*** 6.5" Rota are absolutely silly at full throttle, even though I am dialed back to the stock actuator pressure of 7-8psi.

 

If you'd kept your LS6 in a Vette, you could run 315 rears on cheap replica wheels, and still have traction limitations.

 

yeah but unless he had it in a newer vette he would have several hundred pounds more wieght to help him stay planted as well.