Two Questions: O2 vs Autotune and EMB software
03-05-2008, 08:30 PM
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Two Questions: O2 vs Autotune and EMB software
I hope that I'm not the only one, but I'm confused on to what the autotune helps with vs what the o2 clamp helps with. Also, I've got an autotune and about to install it, but it says it requires that the emb software be 'gold'. Does it matter which version. okay, last question, anyone know of any place to buy a homemade emb pressure sensors? thanks
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03-05-2008, 08:41 PM
#2
I hope that I'm not the only one, but I'm confused on to what the autotune helps with vs what the o2 clamp helps with. Also, I've got an autotune and about to install it, but it says it requires that the emb software be 'gold'. Does it matter which version. okay, last question, anyone know of any place to buy a homemade emb pressure sensors? thanks
a search would help if you done one.
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03-05-2008, 10:31 PM
#4
let me help you get the plug out
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...light=o2+clamp
post number number 5 talks about the mechanics of a 02 clamp.
as olderguy explains it
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...light=o2+clamp
text below
"This is a compilation of everything I can think of involving the Autotune I provide for the Emanage Blue from the experiences I’ve had in helping others to get their cars running with Autotune.
First, what is it?
The Autotune is essentially a switching mechanism and two voltage reducing circuits.
When Autotune is not activated, it passes the normal NB O2 signal through to the ECU and sends a holding voltage to the Emanage so that the Emanage will not influence fueling. This allows you to run your car off boost as it was normally intended. The holding voltage is strictly a voltage the Emanage would see as requiring neither the addition of fuel nor reduction of fuel, and so keeps it neutral.
The theory is that the narrowband oxygen sensor is very repeatable in the area we would like our AFR’s to be under boost, and that the Emanage can be used to add fuel to maintain that AFR based on a setpoint and deviation from that setpoint.
What the Autotune does when activated is route the NB O2 signal to the Emanage through the Emanage TPS input, where it is compared to a map provided to hold an enriched AFR the same as your car’s ECU tries to do in closed loop while to holding at Stoich.
At the same time as the NB signal is routed to the Emanage, the ECU is provided an “oxygen clamp” signal that keeps the ECU from reacting to correct back to Stoich.
There have been problems associated with installing the Autotune, and I want to go into them for your reference:
First, we have had outright failures. One was caused by the customer installation and the other by a faulty pressure switch:
The pressure switch diaphragm tore after one year of service and the switch would no longer activate. It was a Teflon diaphragm. Only a few of these higher priced switches were supplied. All of the regular switches are provided with a Buna N diaphragm which is much tougher.
The customer installation failure was caused by the lead wires to the Autotune being cut and shorted to each other as they passed along the sharp edge of the ECU cover plate.
The Autotune relies on a good, clean signal from the NB O2 reaching the Emanage. This is probably the area where most problems have surfaced:
In most cases the sensor wire signal gets to the ECU in good shape, but in a single wire O2 installation we are relying on the vehicle grounds to get the other side of the signal to the Emanage. That portion of the signal needs to pass through the bung that the O2 is sensor is screwed into, the downpipe connection to the turbo, the turbo connection to the manifold, the manifold connection to the motor, the motor connection to the chassis and the chassis ground connection to the Emanage.
The car’s ECU can stand a dirty signal to some extent. The Emanage cannot because a break or reduction in voltage defaults to a signal that throws in a lot of fuel if the pressure switch is activated.
Most of this can be cured by cleaning all ground contacts and assuring that the piping connections are in good shape.
The single wire O2 is also relying on the heat of the exhaust to bring it to operating temperature. Where the sensor is away from the turbo and below the turbo, it takes longer to heat up.
Both of the above conditions can be ameliorated by installing a heated 4-wire oxygen sensor and tying the sensor ground wire directly into the harness that goes back to the ECU.
Voltage problems:
The Autotune is providing some very finite voltages to do its’ job. It relies on a good electrical system to supply an even voltage to the unit while it is running and there have been instances where problems have occurred. An indication of a problem here is that the TPS setting is varying while logging off boost. This can be caused by a circuit overload (such as adding a WBO2 to the same circuit), faulty grounds, bad battery, or weak or defective alternator.
Attachments to the NBO2 can cause the output voltage to be reduced(such as with an air/fuel gauge) or even feedback that can increase the voltage if another logging of that signal is attempted.
Emanage Overload:
The Emanage, itself, is a computer. It has a finite limit to the signals it can process within a specific period. Dirty or noisy signals cause the Emanage to process every variation of that signal and will change the rate that it can process other signals to the point that it will overload. This was pointed out to me when the AFM sweep arm was very loose, sending a very noisy signal to the point that the firing of the ignition was interrupted."
pressure sensor can be found here
http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/ind...tional%20Parts
hopefully this will take the plug out where ever it may be. good luck
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...light=o2+clamp
post number number 5 talks about the mechanics of a 02 clamp.
as olderguy explains it
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...light=o2+clamp
text below
"This is a compilation of everything I can think of involving the Autotune I provide for the Emanage Blue from the experiences I’ve had in helping others to get their cars running with Autotune.
First, what is it?
The Autotune is essentially a switching mechanism and two voltage reducing circuits.
When Autotune is not activated, it passes the normal NB O2 signal through to the ECU and sends a holding voltage to the Emanage so that the Emanage will not influence fueling. This allows you to run your car off boost as it was normally intended. The holding voltage is strictly a voltage the Emanage would see as requiring neither the addition of fuel nor reduction of fuel, and so keeps it neutral.
The theory is that the narrowband oxygen sensor is very repeatable in the area we would like our AFR’s to be under boost, and that the Emanage can be used to add fuel to maintain that AFR based on a setpoint and deviation from that setpoint.
What the Autotune does when activated is route the NB O2 signal to the Emanage through the Emanage TPS input, where it is compared to a map provided to hold an enriched AFR the same as your car’s ECU tries to do in closed loop while to holding at Stoich.
At the same time as the NB signal is routed to the Emanage, the ECU is provided an “oxygen clamp” signal that keeps the ECU from reacting to correct back to Stoich.
There have been problems associated with installing the Autotune, and I want to go into them for your reference:
First, we have had outright failures. One was caused by the customer installation and the other by a faulty pressure switch:
The pressure switch diaphragm tore after one year of service and the switch would no longer activate. It was a Teflon diaphragm. Only a few of these higher priced switches were supplied. All of the regular switches are provided with a Buna N diaphragm which is much tougher.
The customer installation failure was caused by the lead wires to the Autotune being cut and shorted to each other as they passed along the sharp edge of the ECU cover plate.
The Autotune relies on a good, clean signal from the NB O2 reaching the Emanage. This is probably the area where most problems have surfaced:
In most cases the sensor wire signal gets to the ECU in good shape, but in a single wire O2 installation we are relying on the vehicle grounds to get the other side of the signal to the Emanage. That portion of the signal needs to pass through the bung that the O2 is sensor is screwed into, the downpipe connection to the turbo, the turbo connection to the manifold, the manifold connection to the motor, the motor connection to the chassis and the chassis ground connection to the Emanage.
The car’s ECU can stand a dirty signal to some extent. The Emanage cannot because a break or reduction in voltage defaults to a signal that throws in a lot of fuel if the pressure switch is activated.
Most of this can be cured by cleaning all ground contacts and assuring that the piping connections are in good shape.
The single wire O2 is also relying on the heat of the exhaust to bring it to operating temperature. Where the sensor is away from the turbo and below the turbo, it takes longer to heat up.
Both of the above conditions can be ameliorated by installing a heated 4-wire oxygen sensor and tying the sensor ground wire directly into the harness that goes back to the ECU.
Voltage problems:
The Autotune is providing some very finite voltages to do its’ job. It relies on a good electrical system to supply an even voltage to the unit while it is running and there have been instances where problems have occurred. An indication of a problem here is that the TPS setting is varying while logging off boost. This can be caused by a circuit overload (such as adding a WBO2 to the same circuit), faulty grounds, bad battery, or weak or defective alternator.
Attachments to the NBO2 can cause the output voltage to be reduced(such as with an air/fuel gauge) or even feedback that can increase the voltage if another logging of that signal is attempted.
Emanage Overload:
The Emanage, itself, is a computer. It has a finite limit to the signals it can process within a specific period. Dirty or noisy signals cause the Emanage to process every variation of that signal and will change the rate that it can process other signals to the point that it will overload. This was pointed out to me when the AFM sweep arm was very loose, sending a very noisy signal to the point that the firing of the ignition was interrupted."
pressure sensor can be found here
http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/ind...tional%20Parts
hopefully this will take the plug out where ever it may be. good luck
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03-05-2008, 10:54 PM
#5
I hope that I'm not the only one, but I'm confused on to what the autotune helps with vs what the o2 clamp helps with. Also, I've got an autotune and about to install it, but it says it requires that the emb software be 'gold'. Does it matter which version. okay, last question, anyone know of any place to buy a homemade emb pressure sensors? thanks
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03-13-2009, 07:50 PM
#7
Just to confirm, running 1.49/1.49 is also "Gold" right?
Tony
P.S. www.mohdparts.com seems to be gone.
Tony
P.S. www.mohdparts.com seems to be gone.
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03-13-2009, 08:34 PM
#8
Just to confirm, running 1.49/1.49 is also "Gold" right?
Tony
P.S. www.mohdparts.com seems to be gone.
Tony
P.S. www.mohdparts.com seems to be gone.
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