z31maniac

YAY!!!

Ran the BRZ by the dealership just a few minutes ago. For some reason I decided to check the coolant level today (car only has 8400 miles on it) and noticed "cold" (it's still 102° outside) the level was just slightly below "LOW"

So I let them top it off and I'm going to keep my eye on it, I hope this ******* car isn't already using coolant........ugh, I'll be so ******* pissed.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

the reminds me i need to do oil this weekend. pushing 8K on rotella.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I know most will say you can drive forever on synth, but my last change was right at 4k and that stuff came out pretty dark/nasty. Will do the next at 3k because e85

I really need to finally start on that catch can setup soon too. Found a really cool DIY similar to what someone here already mentioned, using home depot racing air compressor air/water separator

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

I go about 6-7k on the LGT, running full syn. A guy on LGT.net did the blackstone labs thing with his LGT using the same oil I do, mobil one. At 7k the oil was still good, it was starting to decline by 8 or 9k if I recall.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

any reason for running quite possibly the worst oil known to mankind?
lol (but seriously, I hear people say M1 has been trash since a couple years ago)

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

You got data to back that up? Is there some empirical difference other than "its the worst possible oil", "its just what I heard"? Give me data, I hate statements like the one you just made.

To be honest I run whatever is on sale, M1 is my default if nothing else, im not a brand bitch, especially with oils. The LGT has seen rotella, castrol edge, and really thats all I can remember, but im sure ive thrown other crap in there.

Only mentioned M1 as thats what was being tested at blackstone.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I know, I hate statements like that too. I even gave Pat a hard time about doing the same thing.
And nope, I really don't, at least not 1sthand. I'll see if I can dig up the discussions that I heard this from (these were some oil geek discussions, not just "well my bro's bro said that the bro's at M1 suck, bro). Something about how it's not a full synthetic or something. I'll shut up and look for that thread now lol

The never ending oil debate is.....well.....never ending. I'm sticking with rotella for now tho

PS: I hope you realized post #1285 wasn't completely seroius based on the 2 "lol's"

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

I need to see if I can find that LGT oil test thread, it might have even been on BITOG.com. I believe it was late 2000's, like 07, 08. Point being a lot can change with oil quality and formulation in 6 or 7 years, and if you can find newer data, id like to see it fo sho.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

thats for sure, another reason im not a big brand *****. I tend to believe that any decent oil company is going to make a quality oil, and as long as it meets the spec for my car, its juts a matter of how long it lasts. miles/$$


im not offended

18psi

iTrader: (76)

the controversy started in 09 I think
to get started:
is Mobil 1 a group 4, true synthetic? | Passenger Car Motor Oil (PCMO) - Gasoline Cars/Pickups/Vans/SUVs | Bob Is The Oil Guy

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

I could be in there forever lol! Having only made it through page 2, it seems like lots of debate and speculation and few facts, just like every oil thread ever.

Im going to keep buying whatever is on sale.

Are you running the T or T6?

edit- page 3 has some pics that are no longer hosted... damnit

18psi

iTrader: (76)

T6
Plenty of UOA's with it holding up like a boss, enough for me to stick to it (and also because it continues to be the cheapest option, period.)

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

It is cheap. I run it in my one 4 stroke bike, and my truck. Maybe ill just switch the miata and LGT over to T6 too, and start buying it by the drum. It was on sale at O'reallys yesterday or $14 for 5qt bottle! I bought 10 qts.

z31maniac

Dark/nasty......very scientific.

There are a few guys on the BRZ forum running this stuff:

CFS 0W30 NT - $22.45 : Performance Racing Oils - Millers Oils

With the UOAs to prove 3k+ track only miles on E85 and 7k+ street miles on E85 with plenty of life left. I realize it's pricey and turbo's are harder on oil (although BRZs run crazy high oil temps) but they have actual data to back up their claims.

Not to mention dyno pulls showing more power out of oil, etc.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

yeah, well, that's how it came out. I'm sending in a sample on my next oil change cause I'm curious how much e85 is actually ending up in the oil, or if there's a chemical reaction like I've heard some people say.

if it doesn't come back good on the UOA, then it will be time to worry about what to switch to.


I've heard the local subie tuner raving about Pennrite and that it works very well on e85 vehicles. Gotta look into that one too

z31maniac

Oil will go dark/nasty within a few hundred miles.

The guys with UOAs are saying E85s attack the detergents in the oil more than normal gasoline does (I don't know, haven't done a UOA of mine yet). I'm running Motul 8100 0w-20 in the BRZ.

I plan on changing for the Millers when I get an oil cooler (and know there isn't something up with the engine) and sending in a sample.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I've a few hundred miles on the t6 in my scoob right now and it's perfectly clear. Brand new looking

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

T6 in my Miata stays golden for 1000+ miles. Starts turning brown a little after that.

z31maniac

DON'T CHANGE THE SUBJECT VLAD!

I'm trying to think of the oil I read about the other day that whipped Amsoil's *** whilst being cheaper.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

M1 is the reason "full" and "blended" synthetic is a thing.

you can now buy M1 and M1 synthetic. M1 is a blend.



ive never once in my life done an oil change where the oil wasn't black.

the includes draining within a few hundred miles...