hustler

iTrader: (6)

It smoked until it hit 80*f or so. What else could it be? My gauge liked to peg on cold-start too.

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

Its OP then.

JKav

iTrader: (1)

yeah sounds like high OP. If you run heavy weight oil and a shimmed oilpump then I could see the cold start OP being high enough to overwhelm the turbine seal.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

What oil do you run anyway?

hustler

iTrader: (6)

5w40 rotella synth. I should have the analysis data back now-ish.

MX_Eva

GDI. You guys and your safety wire. I'm stupid lots paranoid now, and I'm pretty sure I need to safety wire EVERYTHING. My solid motor and diff mounts have defintely caused a bolt or two to vibrate out and I'm only at 4 of aimed 15 psi.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Tial is sending me funky metal studs and nuts which they use in their GP2 cars for this problem. My contact there swears up and down that these work, and even discussed a redesign on these housings to include 8 rather than 6 holes, and possibly these fancy metal studs and nuts. Dear god, please work.

Considering these are run in GP2, I'm somewhat confident that it will work. I will not live through this again.


edit: I mean "Formula 2". I can't find anything on the engines and **** though, not any stylish pictures. He told me they are using tial v-band housings, with the funkymetal hardware, and NO safety wire. I'm not taking anymore chances.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

Sooo you are gonna safetywire the nuts to the studs?

You're still getting a new set of 6mm bolts and those flange spacer things, shipping today. And a purple keychain

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Yep, that's the way this works...I have to buy everything 3-times. Apparently we're now stretching the hardware that holds the CHRA to the turbine housing. At this point in the game, I'm not taking chances with money...I've run over-budget on this car. No chances, only the best. I'm drilling through the nut and stud, then wiring to opposing flanges, so if one backs out, hopefully the other will be tight.

The key chain is all I really wanted, lol.

crashnscar

iTrader: (9)

Safety wire saved Savington's setup.... The bolts all turned about 1/16th of a turn since safety wiring them, CHRA could spin in the exhaust housing with force (wiggling the intercooler piping off was enough to notice it). How the **** do people not have this problem? (obviously not enough people do otherwise TiAL would have changed it quick.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Nick,
Didn't you gays use SS wire? I wonder if the SS wire stretched? I have inconel wire, so hopefully that will work. I suppose I can try with the inconel wire and if that fails I'll go with the fancy ****.

I trust a mechanical lock more than alchemy.

crashnscar

iTrader: (9)

I wouldn't trust mechanical lock over using the correct metals. Take a look at the reason you even went to v-bands..... mechanical locking wasn't enough because it is an issue concerning expansion and strength.

Yes, I believe it is SS safety wire. I do not know how tight it was between the bolts though (there was likely a small amount of slop, letting the bolt heads turn just that little bit). It did save the CHRA though. Report back how your special nuts/studs from TiAL work..... btw, how many hoes did you have to pimp to pay for the new TiAL hardware?

hustler

iTrader: (6)

$100 I think. He's placing an order today. I hooked up Andy Kay with the contact info, and I know you two share a bed.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

See, with my inconel safety wire I can let the tial hardware stretch and the safety wire will keep me from buying another housing. However, eventually after tightening, the tial hardware will break and I'll have to take the turbine housing to a machine shop and get the stud removed.

With the nimonic studs one can stretch or loosen , fall out, then I am out another $500 in CHRA.

chance91

iTrader: (3)

This is a great way to hold the bolts for drilling for lockwire. it holds only the neck on mine, not the threads. Its three pieces, a collet with the bolt, the large tapered block, and a screw on the end for the collet to pull it all together.


As for lockwire, does anyone know exactly how to do something like this? I am sort of at a loss, but it seems the best way to go for the outlet-turbo part. I'm also considering drilling for lockwire my turbine nuts so I don't lose a center housing, but that's mostly a V-band/tial problem, right?


Anyway, I'm going with a 1/16 drill bit, hss, and i have about 18 a286 bolts to go through, so I'm looking at about 10 bits on monday.. woo.