The shielded wire that goes to pin 24... from the white wire on CAS, there are two (black and white) wires inside the shield on the MS wire, and then one bare wire outside. Am I just connecting both black and white wires to the White wire on the CAS?
Ah yea you are right. Pin 24 in the input (white wire in the twisted pair) and Pin 1 is is the ground (black wire in the twisted pair). Makes more sense now that I look at the diagram again. Looks like Pin 2 is the outside bare wire in the shielded wire?
pin 1 and 2 are grounds. so that assumes you are wiring the sensors completely to the MS.
right now the CAS already has a ground to black/lt green.
anyways, the stock signals aren't shielded, so you really don't need it yourself. I use that unlabled black/white wire in the loom for my crank sensor to the CAS, and the pin32 cam in on the MS3X bundle.
1. I have 12v at the 80amp breaker.
2. I have 12v at the 80amp relay.
3. With key on I have 12v at the fuse box that holds the fuses for all the power for MS related things.
4. I have 12v on the other side of all the fuses.
5. The car cranks over, and the starting circuit works.
1. I hear no fuel pump.
2. The MS won't connect to my laptop.
3. I think it isn't even turning on.
The MS connects, and functions as it should when it is connected to the JimStim
So what could be causing the MS to not turn on when I have verified switched 12v going to the MS? The grounds are also good. They all go the engine block and are connected to the engine mount bolts that bolt to the block.
Step one I guess is disconnecting the engine bay harness to isolate the harness a bit. It's possible something is shorted, but no fuses have blown.
I bypassed the relay and ran power straight to the pump and it works with key on. Of course it stays running, but at least I know it's something with the relay, or MS triggering the relay.
But even with the fuel pump bypassed it still doesn't start.
I'm not too worried yet as I'm really not to that point yet.
If I set firing order to 1342, do I still need to wire up the spark plugs/injectors as A1 B3 C4 D2? Because that is how I did it, and what I thought I read somewhere. But if you can change the firing order on the MS what is the point of not just wiring it up A1 B2 C3 D4, won't the MS firing in the correct order? ADBC..
Or do they not have anything to do with each other?
My TPS is reading like 55 at closed, and 10 at WOT. Clearly I fucked something up. I tried to find the wire color for power/ground/signal but nothing was very clear. I should have checked resistance before wiring it up :( Oh well, I'll be adding that to the list.
Okay doing some research here and looks like you need to wire them up according to firing order. Setting firing order in TS doesn't change the order the MS fires the injectors and spark.
Now to figure out the TPS.
This is what I'm getting for wiring up the TPS, so time to double check:
Pin 1-black wire-5volt in
Pin 2-shielded wire-ground
Pin 3-yellow wire-signal out
Okay double checked and this is how I wired it. Sigh.
Admittedly I have no idea what I'm doing. Car cranks smoothly. No stutter or any attempt to start. I need to set base timing still but it should be pretty damn close. I'm guessing no spark, or fucked up spark. Is there a good way to test besides just laying a connected spark plug on the valve cover and cranking away lol
Yes I know my TPS signal is all fucked up.
Also while cranking I'm getting e9 on my wideband, low voltage. The battery should have plenty of voltage as I just recharged it and the MS doesn't have any issues. But I shouldn't even need the wb02 to start anyways right?
Here is a log, and my msq.
Setup for those that don't now:
1. No turbo, naturally aspirated with stock header + MTX-L wideband
2. Wideband just calibrated per innovate
3. IGN-1 coils (4) with 4 ignitors. I wired them up 1342
4. 1200c five-o injectors wired up 1342. I have fuel.
5. NGK spark plugs, brand new.