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Old 08-26-2013, 01:15 PM   #41
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You know what they say about keeping your enemies close... they just want you to think they love you. UNTIL THEY TAKE OVER THE WORLD.
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Old 08-26-2013, 01:25 PM   #42
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last night my cat woke me up just before the power went out at around 1:15am.

it's a sign.
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:21 PM   #43
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The shielded wire that goes to pin 24... from the white wire on CAS, there are two (black and white) wires inside the shield on the MS wire, and then one bare wire outside. Am I just connecting both black and white wires to the White wire on the CAS?
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:11 AM   #44
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oh i dunno, i don't use the shielded wires. You can do that, but i think the intent was you could run both cmp and cmk back through that one shielded wire.
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:23 AM   #45
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Ah yea you are right. Pin 24 in the input (white wire in the twisted pair) and Pin 1 is is the ground (black wire in the twisted pair). Makes more sense now that I look at the diagram again. Looks like Pin 2 is the outside bare wire in the shielded wire?

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Old 08-28-2013, 09:39 AM   #46
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pin 1 and 2 are grounds. so that assumes you are wiring the sensors completely to the MS.

right now the CAS already has a ground to black/lt green.


anyways, the stock signals aren't shielded, so you really don't need it yourself. I use that unlabled black/white wire in the loom for my crank sensor to the CAS, and the pin32 cam in on the MS3X bundle.
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Old 08-28-2013, 12:55 PM   #47
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I have the spark plugs with no internal resistor. Which I hear can cause noise on things like the CAS. So I figured I'd do as much as I could to prevent any noise.
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Old 09-21-2013, 11:50 PM   #48
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Bringing this back to confirm my tach setup.

I have 4 coils, that are driven by 4 ignitors. Is my tach going to be as simple as running the tach output wire to the correct input on the gauge cluster?
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Old 09-22-2013, 01:45 PM   #49
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^ Thats what I did, works perfectly! Then its just a matter of getting your settings right. You can even test it in the output test mode window to makre sure its working properly.
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Old 09-22-2013, 05:20 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FRT_Fun View Post
Bringing this back to confirm my tach setup.

I have 4 coils, that are driven by 4 ignitors. Is my tach going to be as simple as running the tach output wire to the correct input on the gauge cluster?

yes.

if you still have some of the stock wiring, you can send the tachout to 2I, the b/w wire. then in the ignitor connection, just tie the b/w and y/b wires together.
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Old 09-22-2013, 11:45 PM   #51
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I think I get what you are saying. I have no stock engine wiring. Basically you are saying I can wire the tach output to the ignitor input at the gauge cluster (yellow/black).
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Old 09-23-2013, 09:54 AM   #52
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yers. (yellow/blue)
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Old 09-23-2013, 10:42 AM   #53
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Quote:
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yers. (yellow/blue)
****, yea.
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Old 09-28-2013, 12:18 AM   #54
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Okay bros. I have problems.

THE GOOD
1. I have 12v at the 80amp breaker.
2. I have 12v at the 80amp relay.
3. With key on I have 12v at the fuse box that holds the fuses for all the power for MS related things.
4. I have 12v on the other side of all the fuses.
5. The car cranks over, and the starting circuit works.

THE BAD:
1. I hear no fuel pump.
2. The MS won't connect to my laptop.
3. I think it isn't even turning on.

EXTRA INFO:
The MS connects, and functions as it should when it is connected to the JimStim

So what could be causing the MS to not turn on when I have verified switched 12v going to the MS? The grounds are also good. They all go the engine block and are connected to the engine mount bolts that bolt to the block.

Step one I guess is disconnecting the engine bay harness to isolate the harness a bit. It's possible something is shorted, but no fuses have blown.

Last edited by FRT_Fun; 09-28-2013 at 12:30 AM.
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Old 09-28-2013, 01:10 AM   #55
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Okay scratch all of the above.

I have connected to the MS3x. It powers up and detects all the sensors. The TPS is not working right but I think it needs to be calibrated.

But still I have no fuel pump :(

I think I might have forgot to connect it when I installed it. So that will be my next thing I check.
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Old 09-28-2013, 01:15 AM   #56
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F/P to GND in the diagnostic box? Or did you eliminate it? I forget and I'm too lazy to read the whole thread right now.
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Old 09-28-2013, 02:06 AM   #57
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No stock harness left.

I bypassed the relay and ran power straight to the pump and it works with key on. Of course it stays running, but at least I know it's something with the relay, or MS triggering the relay.

But even with the fuel pump bypassed it still doesn't start.

I'm not too worried yet as I'm really not to that point yet.


NEW QUESTIONS:
If I set firing order to 1342, do I still need to wire up the spark plugs/injectors as A1 B3 C4 D2? Because that is how I did it, and what I thought I read somewhere. But if you can change the firing order on the MS what is the point of not just wiring it up A1 B2 C3 D4, won't the MS firing in the correct order? ADBC..

Or do they not have anything to do with each other?
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Old 09-28-2013, 02:18 AM   #58
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My TPS is reading like 55 at closed, and 10 at WOT. Clearly I fucked something up. I tried to find the wire color for power/ground/signal but nothing was very clear. I should have checked resistance before wiring it up :( Oh well, I'll be adding that to the list.


Okay doing some research here and looks like you need to wire them up according to firing order. Setting firing order in TS doesn't change the order the MS fires the injectors and spark.

Now to figure out the TPS.

This is what I'm getting for wiring up the TPS, so time to double check:
Pin 1-black wire-5volt in
Pin 2-shielded wire-ground
Pin 3-yellow wire-signal out

Okay double checked and this is how I wired it. Sigh.

Last edited by FRT_Fun; 09-28-2013 at 12:48 PM.
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Old 09-28-2013, 04:22 PM   #59
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Admittedly I have no idea what I'm doing. Car cranks smoothly. No stutter or any attempt to start. I need to set base timing still but it should be pretty damn close. I'm guessing no spark, or fucked up spark. Is there a good way to test besides just laying a connected spark plug on the valve cover and cranking away lol

Yes I know my TPS signal is all fucked up.

Also while cranking I'm getting e9 on my wideband, low voltage. The battery should have plenty of voltage as I just recharged it and the MS doesn't have any issues. But I shouldn't even need the wb02 to start anyways right?

Here is a log, and my msq.

Please advise.

Setup for those that don't now:
1. No turbo, naturally aspirated with stock header + MTX-L wideband
2. Wideband just calibrated per innovate
3. IGN-1 coils (4) with 4 ignitors. I wired them up 1342
4. 1200c five-o injectors wired up 1342. I have fuel.
5. NGK spark plugs, brand new.
6. MS3x
Attached Files
File Type: msl test.msl (215.3 KB, 38 views)
File Type: msq CurrentTune.msq (176.3 KB, 73 views)
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Old 09-28-2013, 05:09 PM   #60
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**** YES.

It runs. data log below.

I had reversed the coil neg and pos. Mother ******* hell yes.

But the TPS is still fucked so can't do much beyond start it.

FUuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck yesssssssssssssssssssss

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MS3x Questions-fuck_yes_unicorns_are_awesome_by_yippyskippy.jpg  
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File Type: msl 2013-09-28_13.05.02.msl (80.1 KB, 45 views)
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