EPIC nuts/studs loosening thread (reposting stupid stuff without reading = warning)
#821
I respectfully submit that I did not say any one was wrong,I only said that IMO,Inconel690 or even 825 is a better choice.I like Travis,he has the courage of his convictions.
We will see who is right on this topic,when the results are in.In the interest of disclosure I will be using 316L Inox bolts,extra heavy washers and nuts.
-G-
We will see who is right on this topic,when the results are in.In the interest of disclosure I will be using 316L Inox bolts,extra heavy washers and nuts.
-G-
#822
Originally Posted by Savington
I'm not going to say which specific alloy since I don't want to spend $500+ testing this stuff only to have someone find a supplier and go around me.
At 1000F:
Young's modulus 23.5
CTE 9.4
At 1000F:
Young's modulus 23.5
CTE 9.4
Higher CTE and springier!
Last edited by JasonC SBB; 09-29-2009 at 07:08 PM.
#824
BTW note that McMaster has 316 SS (stronger), which is B8M spec as per ASTM A193 hi temp fastener standards, in 5/16" and 3/8" diameter, and in 1.5 and 2" lengths, for a whopping $2+ each.
McMaster-Carr B8M studs
Can any of you pukes tell me if I can drill out and re-thread my ETD shorty mani and GT2560 to accept 5/16" or 3/8" studs?
#826
LOL I ordered 304 SS from BEGI. They can also get 316 SS (stronger) but their supplier needs to make em.
BTW note that McMaster has 316 SS (stronger), which is B8M spec as per ASTM A193 hi temp fastener standards, in 5/16" and 3/8" diameter, and in 1.5 and 2" lengths, for a whopping $2+ each.
McMaster-Carr B8M studs
Can any of you pukes tell me if I can drill out and re-thread my ETD shorty mani and GT2560 to accept 5/16" or 3/8" studs?
BTW note that McMaster has 316 SS (stronger), which is B8M spec as per ASTM A193 hi temp fastener standards, in 5/16" and 3/8" diameter, and in 1.5 and 2" lengths, for a whopping $2+ each.
McMaster-Carr B8M studs
Can any of you pukes tell me if I can drill out and re-thread my ETD shorty mani and GT2560 to accept 5/16" or 3/8" studs?
to be drilled out is square with the flange,and using the right drill for the tap needed.
-G-
#830
Im using 3/8"-24 bolts.Go up to 3/8" if you can.Yes just drill it out,The hole will pilot the drill straightish,then tap.Be sure to use lots of oit to cool drill and tap,and leave no drill chips in the hole.Back the tap up every few rounds to break the chip,if it feels like you are getting bound up stop and remove tap.
-G-
-G-
#834
Former Vendor
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Apparently my test car has 316 Stainless studs in it, with M10 Stage 8s for nuts. They worked for most of a day and then started leaking at the end. He's going to try again on Friday, and then I'll be swapping in my Inconel studs for a test day Saturday. If all goes well, I'll take orders in my group buy thread.
#839
Former Vendor
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 15,442
Total Cats: 2,099
Yeah, not good. I put the studs in, torqued new copper locking nuts to around 10ft.lbs, and they were spun halfway out after 4 laps. We had other problems with the car and had to call it a day early. I want to do another test day before writing them off completely, basically duplicate my safety-wire setup and see if these deform like my mild steel studs did. Needless to say, no group buy yet.