I respectfully submit that I did not say any one was wrong,I only said that IMO,Inconel690 or even 825 is a better choice.I like Travis,he has the courage of his convictions.
We will see who is right on this topic,when the results are in.In the interest of disclosure I will be using 316L Inox bolts,extra heavy washers and nuts.
-G-

 

Hey Sav's magical mystery alluring alloy looks even better than A-286.
Higher CTE and springier!

 

OMFG what does that mean?this thread is the ***** with cheese and rice.
-G-

 

LOL I ordered 304 SS from BEGI. They can also get 316 SS (stronger) but their supplier needs to make em.

BTW note that McMaster has 316 SS (stronger), which is B8M spec as per ASTM A193 hi temp fastener standards, in 5/16" and 3/8" diameter, and in 1.5 and 2" lengths, for a whopping $2+ each.

McMaster-Carr B8M studs

Can any of you pukes tell me if I can drill out and re-thread my ETD shorty mani and GT2560 to accept 5/16" or 3/8" studs?

 

Springier = lower Young's modulus = lower spring constant = can accept more flange growth due to temperature, correct?

 

Short-yes,Long-What is the Mani made of ?It is a simple matter of making sure that the hole
to be drilled out is square with the flange,and using the right drill for the tap needed.
-G-

 

Cast iron.

5/16" is 7.9 mm which is smaller than the M8 holes in there. So 5/16" wouldn't work, correct?

 

Typical tap drill size for 3/6-16 is 5/16". I wouldn't stress about the little mismatch. Basically, drill out the threads that are there and rethread it. Missing a little from the minor diameter here and there, but .05mm isn't much.

 

Big studs are stronger. I had to grind my turbo to make room for the wrench, but, I never, EVER had to go back and replace the big studs. Call it superstition, but all things being equal a bigger stud will last longer.

 

Im using 3/8"-24 bolts.Go up to 3/8" if you can.Yes just drill it out,The hole will pilot the drill straightish,then tap.Be sure to use lots of oit to cool drill and tap,and leave no drill chips in the hole.Back the tap up every few rounds to break the chip,if it feels like you are getting bound up stop and remove tap.
-G-

 

Once everyone gets over themselves and uses plain and simple 304, please make sure your flanges are flat/mated before using the new studs. Warped turbo flange or manifold with ANY stud = utter and epic fail.

 

Just got everything back from the "cheap" A286 place. Over 150 dollars shipped for just studs. Just under 300 for studs and nuts.

I think A286 is back out again. Inconel is porbably as good as it gets for a high dollar solution.

316 with a light torque and Resbond is the cheap solution.

 

Wouldn't 304 be too? Spookyfish had good luck (albeit with spot welds).

Hey Spooky how much did you torque the nuts before you welded 'em?

 

Apparently my test car has 316 Stainless studs in it, with M10 Stage 8s for nuts. They worked for most of a day and then started leaking at the end. He's going to try again on Friday, and then I'll be swapping in my Inconel studs for a test day Saturday. If all goes well, I'll take orders in my group buy thread.

 

Was it tightened with light torque and locked with Resbond?

 

No resbond last time. They were also tightened tight, they will be ~15 ft lbs Friday.

 

15 ft lbs is too much, we're talking LIGHT 7-10 ft lbs. Stainless just doesn't hav the high heat capability to load that hard.

 

Sav, are the results from Friday in?

 

Yeah, not good. I put the studs in, torqued new copper locking nuts to around 10ft.lbs, and they were spun halfway out after 4 laps. We had other problems with the car and had to call it a day early. I want to do another test day before writing them off completely, basically duplicate my safety-wire setup and see if these deform like my mild steel studs did. Needless to say, no group buy yet.

 

another win for v-bands.