Post your DIY aero pics
Like ThePass said, the most important part to a functioning diffuser is a flat floor infront of the diffuser. I'm working on second design that will feature a curved profile instead of flat. It will help the air stay attached to the diffuser surface at more severe angles.
Also the angle on the diffuser in the pictures is adjustable. You can run it right up to the bumper if you wanted to.
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Had some time to work on a new front end for the race car. All removed with 4 bolts at the front. Will get a picture with the bumper attached. Its nice to have all of the ducting attached to the undertray instead of the car. so much easier to work on.
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Do you have a build thread anywhere? That car looks very well put together and I would like to grok it.
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Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 993
Total Cats: 57
From: Auckland, NZ
Love the idea and implementation, my concern whenever I consider this type of setup is removing the front tie bar across the front of the chassis...would be so nice to have it all on the undertray as you say!
Are there no issues with chassis or overall strength when removing that bar?
put to OP and others....
Are there no issues with chassis or overall strength when removing that bar?
put to OP and others....
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The end result is on the order of tenths of a lb changes in drag and downforce. This is so far down in the weeds as to be immeasurable.
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Love the idea and implementation, my concern whenever I consider this type of setup is removing the front tie bar across the front of the chassis...would be so nice to have it all on the undertray as you say!
Are there no issues with chassis or overall strength when removing that bar?
put to OP and others....
Are there no issues with chassis or overall strength when removing that bar?
put to OP and others....
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I too haven't had any issues with that cross section removed. I have a small 1" square tube welded in between the two sides, so not quite as drastic as having nothing spanning that gap, but that tube is mostly there just to support the front of the intercooler, not so much for the chassis.
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Isn't anything in front of the crossmember "just" for crash protection and support for body panels etc.
But with an improved (flimsy) crossmember you might need help with stability from the framerails.
Having stock structures helps when bouncing against guardrails...
But with an improved (flimsy) crossmember you might need help with stability from the framerails.
Having stock structures helps when bouncing against guardrails...
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Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
Total Cats: 1,870
From: Beaverton, USA
When designing an air damn the air intake has a certain size that is an optimal combo of drag vs air intake right? Does this change when adding a grill? When adding a mesh grill do you take the area of the bits blocked by the gril into account?
Just thinking. No actual reason behind the question, thought this would be a good place to ask.
Just thinking. No actual reason behind the question, thought this would be a good place to ask.
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Elite Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,608
Total Cats: 817
From: Columbus, OH
When designing an air damn the air intake has a certain size that is an optimal combo of drag vs air intake right? Does this change when adding a grill? When adding a mesh grill do you take the area of the bits blocked by the gril into account?
Just thinking. No actual reason behind the question, thought this would be a good place to ask.
Just thinking. No actual reason behind the question, thought this would be a good place to ask.
Grill and mesh choice
We typically make grills from three meshes of different open ratio. Basically cool and hot weather. With a reroute, it's easy to overcool the engine to the point that the oil doesn't get hot enough. The more closed it ism the less aero drag and more downforce on the front end.
Wire mesh from mcmaster.com
9217T41 81.5% open area hot weather (pictured)
9641T241 61.6% open area warm weather
9227T632 44.8% open area cold weather, what we ran at T25.
We typically make grills from three meshes of different open ratio. Basically cool and hot weather. With a reroute, it's easy to overcool the engine to the point that the oil doesn't get hot enough. The more closed it ism the less aero drag and more downforce on the front end.
Wire mesh from mcmaster.com
9217T41 81.5% open area hot weather (pictured)
9641T241 61.6% open area warm weather
9227T632 44.8% open area cold weather, what we ran at T25.
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Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 488
Total Cats: 17
From: Grants Pass, OR.
I run 1/2"galv. farmers cloth, also known as construction cloth, picture above. On cold mornings I just add duct tape till it warms up in the afternoon. To answer your question I don't think the 1/2" effects the issue enough to figure it as being in the equation. Going to the 1/4" or 1/8" would be a different story.You can buy this stuff at any local hdwre store usally by the foot.
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Newb
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 12
Total Cats: 3
From: Seattle, Wa.
My answer to a question no one has asked; EZ on-off splitter, steetable track car. Basically I don't wanna have to buy a trailer so...The 4 front elements nest together and fit on the parcel shelf for transport to and from the track.
4 Removable front elements
Front elements mounted
This section remains on the car and serves as the mount for the removable front elements
4 Removable front elements
Front elements mounted
This section remains on the car and serves as the mount for the removable front elements
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I like this idea the most for my application. I have thought about this a lot, but most of my reason for a removable splitter is that I can try different designs while not wasting more materials or taking up large space. It looks like you just soldered the aluminum channel together but how are you mounting it to the chassis? It all looks very well done.
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