Yea, the miatas were never going to competitive at Daytona.

Daytona is all about hp and low drag. Every hp counts.

Miatas should be back fighting for the win at Mid-Ohio next year.

 

I've posted on this on here before. Here are two really easy ideas that I think work well on splitters to help prevent damage to other parts of the car in an accident but offer very easy removal.

Slotted keyholes cut into the back end of the splitter that slide into mushroom bolt fixed to the subframe. These help with easy installation / removal whilst the car is on the ground. It's very solid in the forwards direction so will transfer any frontal impact to the subframe before destroying the splitter. This helps protect the nose / oil cooler/ radiator etc





And crushable mounts at the front that are easily replaced. These give around 1" movement upwards if required. They'll also move sidewards if required.

 

Subbed for the education
Greg

 

Is there a readily available CAD drawing of a good miata splitter? I have no class specifications and doubt I will in the future. But I have a plotter at work and could print myself a template easily.

 

what should the size of the hole be in an air dam style front bumper? looking at cleaning the front end up but don't want to over or under cool. Is there any set guidelines or just some guesswork?

 

33% of total cooling matrix.

 

Great. Thanks for that. Where does that percentage come from of is it just a rule of thumb?

 

It's a rule of thumb; 33% sounds very specific, 1/3rd sounds less so. Either way, that's about ideal.

 

Since I'm a noob on stuff like this, does this mean the opening of the bumper should be approx 33% of the total surface area of the heat exchangers?

 

^I think thats the idea.

1/3 opening for the surface area is the ideal balance between aerodynamic drag and airflow through the exchanger. A bigger opening will cause air to pile up and spill out of the duct and a smaller opening will restrict airflow.

 

This might sound stupid or might not be a valid question but does anyone have info on volume behind the heat exchangers?

I quickly made some ducting that closes off the air going through the radiator and vents into the hood extractor. I just think that the air is stagnating in there.



The only way i can think of fixing this is tilting the radiator as far forward as possible and then do all the ducting again. Thoughts?

 

^love the ducting idea, I think the area is fine as long as you are able to vent a good amount of air to the hood(custom vents-as big as the duct). Where would you run the intake pipe from? middle of ducting? Please update us on this project. Tilting the radiator would be nice, I just don't see a simple way

 

The hood vent is a gt500 with the mesh cut out of the center and spans the entire width of the radiator and then some. Im am going to add a gurney to the front of it to promote even more negative pressure.

The intake runs to the passenger side where the headlights used to be. I think im catching the 3rd intake wave. Tilting the radiator is a ton of work and im lazy so...

 

Are you having heat issues? Seems like N/A cars do fine with a non-**** radiator and decent ducting.

 

He might be doing it to reduce drag

 

yeah cooling isn't a problem. 180whp koyo rad and reroute with ducting could be improved but it works. Looking for less drag/lift

 

you could start taping off the intake to get less drag.

 

Its already 1/3 the radiator area

 

Volume behind the heat exchanger can range anywhere between 25-60% of the cooling matrix. You just want the exit duct to gradually decrease in cross section as it reaches the hood vent. You're trying to speed up the air exiting the radiator to match the air flowing over the hood.

 

New canards, not quite even and sadly I couldn't quite seal the vacuum bag properly, still a useable first draft.