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Old 05-01-2010, 08:16 PM   #21
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I started tearing the motor down to get ready to pull it. I may have it out tomorrow. I have made the decision to send the crank out to Rebello to do a small amount of lightening. At the same time, I am going to have him clearance a new set of rods and bearings to the crank journals properly.

Once I get the bill paid and parts back, I am sending him the head to get proper flow numbers, and correct any problems I have with the head. Camshafts to follow.
Sweet! Progress is always good

What are the specs on your camshaft selection?
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Old 05-01-2010, 08:22 PM   #22
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Sweet! Progress is always good

What are the specs on your camshaft selection?
odds are he wont pick them until he gets the head flow #'s.
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Old 05-01-2010, 08:33 PM   #23
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odds are he wont pick them until he gets the head flow #'s.
You're probably right. I'm just curious to see if has some what of an idea. He hasn't really given us too much information at all, so i'm trying to just get him to speak up a little more.
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Old 05-01-2010, 08:38 PM   #24
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I am guessing that it will be around 250* or so at @.050, and lift will be at least .450". It will be determined by what the head flows. I will be making decisions as I go along. I am trying to stay in a reasonable budget, but still get the job done.
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Old 05-02-2010, 07:18 PM   #25
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Well I got most of the parts off the motor and pulled the head, and to my horror, all of the cylinder walls are scratched. Not terribly bad, but bad enough that I do not want to spend all this time and money on an F'ed up block and marginal pistons. I had an over heating incident when I first put the car back together with the updated head. It must have gotten hotter than I thought and did some ring damage. I have total seal rings, which Rebello thought was not a good choice. I wonder if that has anything to do with it?

I may have to do a little upgrade to the cooling system as well. It looks like the number four cylinder is in the worst shape. Even though the cooling flow is reversed, it still enters the front side of the head. I think I am going to distribute water to both ends of the head and see if that works.

I am a little disappointed in this set back and added expense. Damn.
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Old 05-02-2010, 07:25 PM   #26
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Well, crap.

Total Seal gapless are not a problem. They have been around for years and have a good rep.

Does it look like a piston to bore tolerance issue from when it got hot or foreign object damage due to lack of an air cleaner?
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Old 05-02-2010, 07:25 PM   #27
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Well, crap.

Total Seal gapless are not a problem. They have been around for years and have a good rep.

Does it look like a piston to bore tolerance issue from when it got hot or foreign object damage due to lack of an air cleaner?
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Old 05-02-2010, 07:34 PM   #28
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I have had that carb set up for a while, and had pulled the head off a few times. The cylinders were always in pristine condition every time I pulled the head. I really think it had something to do with the over heating incident.
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Old 05-03-2010, 03:34 PM   #29
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Well, if it gets hot enough, the pistons will try to seize in their bores and will gall the cylinder walls. That sucks.
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Old 05-03-2010, 03:55 PM   #30
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Rings clearly have lost their tension. You can wiggle the pistons in their bores much more than normal. I am going to do an overbore and replace pistons and rings. I will have to hold off on the cylinder head and cam work until I have the cash to do it.
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Old 05-03-2010, 03:57 PM   #31
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I seem to remember Total Seal being CRAP in Honda engines. But my memory is growing hazy with Honda info as I spend more years not building them.
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Old 06-20-2010, 10:15 PM   #32
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Pulled and stripped the motor today. There was trouble brewing in the bottom. Picks and details tomorrow.
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Old 06-21-2010, 12:00 AM   #33
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The last time I had the motor running, I heard a little bit of a tick in the motor. Look what I found.

Also, it is obvious that there is a clearance problem between the pistons to valves. The reliefs are not big enough....Joy. I can not see any visable damage to the valves, but I have not checked yet to see if they are leaking.

I assumed JE would have had the foresight to make the valve reliefs big enough. I was wrong. Keep in mind I got these pistons a few years ago.
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11's on the Motor, 9's on the Nitrous-img_5753.jpg   11's on the Motor, 9's on the Nitrous-img_5768.jpg  
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Old 06-21-2010, 12:02 AM   #34
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ouch
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Old 06-21-2010, 12:28 AM   #35
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So you're telling us you were making like 170hp and you went 13.38? That's mental! What is the weight of your car?
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Old 06-21-2010, 02:29 AM   #36
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I ran 9.99 on a stock drivetrain with 104 octane booster and a fresh coat of wax once. What, don't you believe me?
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Old 06-21-2010, 03:56 AM   #37
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What CR and valvetrain, how many miles did it last, I don't have a question mark key
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Old 06-21-2010, 11:33 AM   #38
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What CR and valvetrain, how many miles did it last, I don't have a question mark key
12:1 compression. See post 13 for valvetrain. I will add that the Flyin Miata valvespring kit comes with titanium retainers.

I made at least 200 passes in the car at the drag strip. Some street driving, but not much.

Here are a few more pics. Those are stock polished rods. Pistons look good, and are reusable. I may use them in another motor with some Eagle or Belfab rods to get going again while I build the real motor.
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11's on the Motor, 9's on the Nitrous-img_5769.jpg   11's on the Motor, 9's on the Nitrous-img_5773.jpg  
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Old 06-28-2010, 02:06 PM   #39
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Just curious, why not run individual throttle bodies rather than the weber's? I like the weber's, I have used them on lot's of volkwagen flat fours (basically non ecu engines). I'm just thinking that with proper engine management and ITB fuel injection you should be able to get more power.

jim
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Old 07-02-2010, 12:27 AM   #40
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Just curious, why not run individual throttle bodies rather than the weber's? I like the weber's, I have used them on lot's of volkwagen flat fours (basically non ecu engines). I'm just thinking that with proper engine management and ITB fuel injection you should be able to get more power.

jim
Carburetors have a reputation of being obsolete in the import automotive scene, but Pro Stock, Pro Mod, Nascar and other racing classes still use them. In an all out carbs versus fuel injected engine, the fuel injection would be better, but not by much. I also had most of the parts I needed from a previous project. Also, it is nice to have one low pressure system to run the induction and the nitrous system that I have.

Here are some pics of the fuel system.

There is a half inch line going from pump to regulator. I could feed the hungriest of four cylinders, and a pretty healthy V8 if I wanted to, with this system.

I put rubber mounts between the pump and chassis, and put a section of rubber line between the pump and 1/2" aluminum line (attached to the length of the chassis) to try to keep it quiet. It did not work. Obnoxious as hell. Not so bad with top down.
Attached Thumbnails
11's on the Motor, 9's on the Nitrous-img_5005.jpg   11's on the Motor, 9's on the Nitrous-img_5818.jpg   11's on the Motor, 9's on the Nitrous-img_5827.jpg   11's on the Motor, 9's on the Nitrous-img_5831.jpg  
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