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Old 09-16-2013, 08:41 AM   #161
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6 quik latch mini's and no hinges, 2 where the hinges were, 2 a the corners behind the headlight and 2 in the front corners next to the head lights. Its going to be like $150 bucks worth of parts but would work the ****.
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:52 AM   #162
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I think having dzus or minis all the way around the hood would look better, but I sill have the problem of lifting the hood on and off by myself. I am not able to set it back down without the risk of scratching the bodywork. Sometimes I can lay it down without touching, sometimes I can't. It will be that one time I collide with the fender that will do damage, and I am not taking the chance. The hinges have to stay.

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Old 09-16-2013, 08:54 AM   #163
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Get a lighter hood? With the fasteners all the way around you could easily run a hood that was floppy as ****, like a single layer of fiber glass on each side of a foam core. or the stock hood completely gutted and ground thinner.
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Old 09-16-2013, 09:00 AM   #164
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I am probably going to try cutting up my hood some to see how it feels. It is in bad enough shape that if it does not work out, I will add it to my scrap.
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Old 09-16-2013, 10:00 AM   #165
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for my project I am going to use either 2 or 4 aluminum hood pins on the leading edge with a gutted hood and swiss cheesed hindges.

the hindges dont hold the hood down much, so lightening them will be 10 minutes with a drill press and it will save a few ounces.

The trunk on the other hand, use 4 dzeus and gut it to hell, or get an outer layer FRP lid.
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Old 09-16-2013, 09:19 PM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
6 quik latch mini's and no hinges, 2 where the hinges were, 2 a the corners behind the headlight and 2 in the front corners next to the head lights. Its going to be like $150 bucks worth of parts but would work the ****.
I just got some minis in the mail ... they are **** and way more user friendly than dzus.

-Zach
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Old 09-16-2013, 10:55 PM   #167
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I think you guys have me convinced on the mini. I am keeping the hinges, but I like the idea of a partial hood gutting and lightening the hinges.

Last edited by miata2fast; 09-22-2013 at 08:39 AM.
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Old 09-17-2013, 11:06 AM   #168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miata2fast View Post
I am probably going to try cutting up my hood some to see how it feels. It is in bad enough shape that if it does not work out, I will add it to my scrap.
fwiw- I raced with a guy that removed all structure from the hood except for the perimeter. Started with pins up front and stock hinges in the back. Then went with pins in the back also. He never had an issue. This was road course racing 3-4 hour races, top speed ~130mph on some courses. He just had to be careful when lifting it.
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Old 09-17-2013, 12:29 PM   #169
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I really appreciate everyone's input. I started to gut the hood today, and have a pretty good idea on how I am going to proceed. I am convinced I am keeping the hinges, at least until the pristine paint wears off. After that, I will re-evaluate.

I put the hood away again until I finish doing the fenders, doors, and hardtop. I worked on refining and squaring the trunk lid. Just a little ways to go and the lid will be finished. I find myself jumping around to different areas of the car. Damn ADHD.

Last edited by miata2fast; 09-22-2013 at 08:40 AM.
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Old 09-17-2013, 12:31 PM   #170
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How car you cutting the hood? When I trimmed mine to clear the intercooler piping I found that the thinnest cutoff wheel in the angle grinder went though it like butter but was hard to tell the depth I was cutting. And I didnt realize how many layers there were.
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Old 09-17-2013, 12:37 PM   #171
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I used a thin cut off wheel like you did, but on two different tools. To do the roughing, I used the electric grinder. To do the detail, I switched over to an air powered tool. It does not cut as fast, but it is easier to control.

I will smooth out the rough edges with a sanding disc and paper scroll on a die grinder.
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Old 09-18-2013, 11:17 AM   #172
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Aside question here, you said you were having axle or cv issues because the rear end was jacked up. Did you figure out what height is best for strength? Did you just lower it some and call it good? Would it be best to set up the axles parallel to the ground while sitting or some other angle?
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Old 09-18-2013, 12:07 PM   #173
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The most strength and power to the ground would be achieved when the axle is in a straight line from end to end when the car is under load. However, how you would set height would depend on rear spring rate. Softer springs will allow much more sag when the car is under acceleration load than stiffer springs.

In my case, because I was in a pinch I chopped the stock springs to lower the car, but I only cut the recommended maximum which put the car very close to stock ride height. It will take an adjustable coilover to tune it just right.
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Old 09-21-2013, 09:54 PM   #174
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Troy's been busy.

11's on the Motor, 9's on the Nitrous-forumrunner_20130921_205239.png



11's on the Motor, 9's on the Nitrous-forumrunner_20130921_205253.png



11's on the Motor, 9's on the Nitrous-forumrunner_20130921_205308.png



11's on the Motor, 9's on the Nitrous-forumrunner_20130921_205322.png
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Old 09-22-2013, 04:52 AM   #175
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holy cow
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Old 09-22-2013, 04:11 PM   #176
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The body is looking very nice.

I cant wait to see what it weighs in at fully dressed.
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Old 09-22-2013, 08:57 PM   #177
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Thank you. I wonder if sub 1900 lbs is a pipe dream?

Spent most of the day working under the car cleaning the last bit of crud off. Acetone is working well to get the spots of under coating that I could not reach with a drill driven brush.

I needed to make some of the dzus fastener holes bigger to square the lid and so the fasteners will tighten properly. It is looking better. I also installed the tail lights to see if there were any issues there. I need to take a little material off the bottom edge so the lid is not resting on the lights. Also, after priming the lid yesterday, I found a few spots that need work.

The strip between the lid and the hardtop is still not straight. Damn it. The rear wheel well still needs some work too. I can still feel a bit of a saw tooth when I run my fingers around the edge. That was a little more challenging than I anticipated.

Looks like I am going to have to pull off the car for a few weeks. Some work came in that needs done right away, and I can use the cash.

I almost forgot. Thanks Steve for bringing over the much needed refreshments yesterday evening. It was a nice way to end the day.
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Old 11-17-2013, 07:36 PM   #178
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After getting done with some of these projects at work, I have found some time to get work done on the car.

I have been applying top coat to the under carriage, roll cage, trunk, and interior. Trying to paint sheet metal around the roll cage is one pain in the ***. Once I am done with the interior, undercarriage, etc.; I am convinced I am going to cry Uncle and let a pro take it from here.

On another note, I contacted V8 Roadsters about the front sub-frame, and what do you know, their shipping department is just a few miles from my house. I ordered the sub-frame and should be picking it up in the next 2 weeks. I can't wait to get this thing rolling again.
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Old 11-24-2013, 06:19 PM   #179
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Not the best day for painting, but I painted anyway.





Under carriage came out pretty good.





Also painted the rear sub-frame and most of the control arms. I will do the rest of the arms when I get my front sub-frame from V-8 Roadsters.

Attached Thumbnails
11's on the Motor, 9's on the Nitrous-img_7672_zps0cc2d532.jpg   11's on the Motor, 9's on the Nitrous-img_7685_zps6aaa8f1f.jpg   11's on the Motor, 9's on the Nitrous-img_7664_zps161a39e6.jpg   11's on the Motor, 9's on the Nitrous-img_7680_zpsb003f52f.jpg   11's on the Motor, 9's on the Nitrous-img_7693_zps99fb0f3a.jpg  

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Old 11-24-2013, 07:01 PM   #180
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To make matters worse, my car's little gay older brother showed up in my shop looking for a handout.



Just like my car, it came in black with a Pierce Manifold intake manifold and Weber carburetor. Somehow I got roped by my Dad to help him get this bucket on the road.
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