driveshaft from the sc300. you are using the sc300 manual driveshaft i presume?

you said you are using a w58 tranny as well right?

this seems to be an extremely cheap setup if you ask me. i might consider this..but if i were to do it, id just go with the n/a 2jz for now until i had money for the turbo setup, or maybe source out an automatic 2jzgtte and attach a w58 tranny :)

i used to own a sc300 and the stock motor was suprisingly peppy, could only imagine how it would be in a miata.

It is an extremely cheap setup when you find the parts in the right spot, and it is relatively cheap with stuff that anyone can find I got the motor for 100 bucks but only because a buddy of mine just did a swap on a 95na supra and he deals with these cars all the time so I have the advantage of having a lot of extra parts available to me. Reality is you can buy and engine harness ecu and trans for about $1100 and if you have a little skill and some tools at your disposal and the will to do it you can for under $2000. I paid $800 for my BP that broke and oil pump 2 months after I put it in. So for the extra money and time I can't go wrong. It also dose not hurt to have a friend as a machinist and another as a welder.

moar photos! any more progress?

Oh nice. These guys are right down the road from me. Sean how far are you from York Automotive?

i was lookin at some of the pics for the motor swap and i couldnt help to notice how close the turbo came to the side of the engine bay, wat do you think you're gonna do to the bay to get intercooler piping to fit right?

I would say no more than 3 miles we are right off penshop just before you hit 80 if you were coming from 27. You should come down and see it some time just pm me and we can set it up.

I am going to cut the turbo outlet a lil bit so I can have a 45 deg elbow welded on and then its just a game to make everything else fit.

what are you gonna do for a downpipe and exhaust? obviously its gonna be custom, are you gonna bother routing it down the right side like it is stock? or gonna try and make it fit down the left?

Yea its gonna be a custom 3" downpipe I am going to try and squeeze it down the passenger side out the fender opening there is just enough room by measuring it but if all else fails Ill rout it through the cowl and out the fender. The fender is the last option.

any more progress? keep us updated!!! id love to see a video of this beast running!

did you mention your engine management yet?

There is a lot of snow on the ground so it messed up the weekend a lil but I am waiting on a bunch of parts to come in and there will be much more progress near new years. I will get some pics when I get the other cars out of the garage and mine back on the lift I got all my fuel system stuff so Ill have pics of that too. The management is going to be a stock Toyota ECU with an APEXI SFAC and that should be good for 500hp witch I think is more than enough for the car.:p

Ok guys I know its been a while but I got to do some more work and I'll have even more pics tomorrow. Here is the pics of the new clutch installed and the fuel system re-ran to the drivers side of the engine compartment. I replace the whole feed side with -6 AN aluminum line and just re-bent the return line to where I needed it.

Finally some pictures, this is like trying to watch porn through static

So true but its harder to look at the car and not be able to work on it every day why do I need a job again?

I made a short list of all the things I've gotten to do this swap and the price just to entertain evreyone.

Engine - $100
Trans,Clutch,Flywheel - $400
Innovate LC-1 wideband - $100
Intercooler - $85
BOV E-bay typeRS - $25
Radiator(Civic 1/2 core) ALU- $65
Turbo,Wastegate,Dump pipe- $220
Boos Gauge Auto mete - Freebie
Brembo Front Rotors - $45
Wilwood superlite calipers -$85
Oil feed line -$30
Oil return line - $100
Modified water neck - $20
Hardog Bar - $50
5-point RCI harnesses - Freebie
Bulk Steel - $100

So far all in all not bad but I am an avid e-bay monster and cl deal hunter gotta keep it cheap somehow.

this thread is very inspiring! :drool:


hey, with the ebay type rs bov (one of the best ebay blow off valves i might add, depending on the manufacturer,) if the diapragm ever breaks, you can always fix it yourself on the cheap.

DIY: Rebuild your ebay Greddy type-s/rs bov for $3.19 - D-series.org



in for video of the motor in miata on the first fire up!

and will the miata gauge cluster work fine with the 2j motor? if not, i think you should fab a gauge cluster like so:

http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/6394/img0747fg4.jpg

i am deff suscribed! i have been thinking of this for a while.

for the guys talking about handling? wouldnt using a Rear sump version of this motor be better of? if your using a front sump oilpan i assume you just mounted the engine over the steering rack...with a rear sump pan i am sure you can drop it a few inches lowering the center of gravity thus making it handle much better? as long as you pus the motor as far back as possible i dont see you hurting the handling much more than your average V8. ls1 just has the advantage of the alum heads/block.

A rear sump would have worked better as you will see in pics soon but it would have only sat down another inch and I didn't want to spend the 500 on the pan. But it would have saved me some pounds in front of the crossmember.

moar pics please!

Just give me a few more hours and ill post the engine mounts and some other stuff they are almost done I'm doing some finishing touches right now.

sweet! i is waiting.....

Here are the pics of the motor mounts I will take some more pics of the ones on the motor with the motor in and post them. There is a pic of my new intercooler and BOV just threw that in there. The big hole is gonna get boxed in and then I'll post some pics of that.


Here comes the car porn. lol

nice!

is that a strait piece of square tubing going from frame rail to frame rail for the trans mount?

Yep with some angle on each side the one side sits about 1/8 inch lower than the other to make room for the fuel lines. I think this motor was made to go in this car.

instead of letting it sit lower you could have notched the pipe out! did you weld it in! if you didnt you could weld some nuts to the floor on the inside of the car so that you can bolt it to the car to make for easy removal!

EDIT! put pipe in place use angle to weld to side of square pipe drill holes, put bolts through from bottom up tighten up and weld nuts on the inside to floor!

Its not welded in I wanted it to be removable It has bolts through the frame I am going to box the frame with plate where it goes through so I wont have any issues. 4 bolts and it drops out like a factory one minus the fact that a miata dose not have one. lol

:bigtu: good job....im really glad you didnt weld that sucker in!

notch out the side on where the fuel lines are for a cleaner install!

Your black miata in the pic looks good but it would look better with a 70mm turbo and a 2JZ sticking though the hood. lol I'm trying to start a trend anyone want to join in.

its not black, its montego!

Sorry montego miata I like it either way and I am color deficient so I can't tell anyways. lol

thanks!

its getting a 6 speed tomorrow hopefully and change colors here soon, without paint touching the car!;)

Help please I need a fabricator!!





Does anyone on this forum do welding/fabrication I have to notch the oil pan and have some plates made and welded in to make it fit and the couple of local fabricators around here are outrageous expensive and I would be willing to pay for the job and shipping both ways. The cheapest I have gotten so far is $300. Ill cut the pan and then I just need the plates made and welded. It is steel. I am willing to put a shop name on the car to get a name out if I can get a good deal on the fabrication. I will upload the pic later it is not working right now. If anyone is a fabricator by job or DIY but a good DIY please PM me if you think you can help.

thanks

count me in! if you can post/pm the measurements of the motor and tranny mounts, and everything else you fabbed up, count me in! but for right now, you deserve all the fame ur gonna get. this thread is glorious!

send it in to modified mag. that will definitely boost this new trend's popularity

Interesting... But I wouldn't do it.


TBH, I'm pretty skeptical of some prices you've listed in your build... You got a hard dog roll bar for 50$? WHERE?! And was it "USED" (ie, in a car that rolled over??)

Also like to add, LMAO over here at "spoolin 2 bars" anti-megasquirt bullshit. Please. Just please. :jerkit:

Supra owners don't use megasquirt because most of them are loaded douchers that'll buy the most expensive thing that can be found. Every 2jz owner I know is anyway.

If you drive to meet me ill shoot a full set of photos for free. I'd love to see something of this type published.

It does look like an easy fit, very cool

But

Im feeling a little un easy about the engine mounts. I feel like it needs some bracing front to rear. Have you done any stress calcs? Are there only two mounts on that engine?

i think itll be alright if he maintains the PPF.
if not, then you may have a point...

:winner: hope the turbo swap goes just as easily as the motor fit in, and in the same time frame. good luck with the whole build. in for pics of the 2jz running right now in the miata, without turbo. thats a feat in itself!

^ repost fail

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t41611/#post489176

LOL banks!!

LOL background wallpaper

I got the roll bar used off Craigslist from a guy who sold his car and let it sit around for like 3 years and just wanted to get rid of it and some of the other stuff came from friends of mine so I got it cheap.

There is only two mounts on the engine and the one trans mount. We had my car and my buddies sc300 side by side and did a lot of sitting and looking and everything seems to be good as far as where the stress should be transfered, but when we fire it up and drive it if it feels even a little sloppy I will add some rear down bars kind of like a roll bar just to be safe.

naw dude didnt you know? megasquirt is only good for really low power setups, like on miatas. Also, I heard megasquirt only likes gay cars like miatas, supras arent gay...

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/1...ril05byaut.jpg

Here are the pics of the oil pan I posted about earlier and the paint shop pic is a side view kind of crude but gets the point across.

When this thing is done hopefully by spring I would love to have you take some pics and I would deff bring it to you. Ill keep you updated as much as possible.

I have no problem running a megasquirt in fact I have been reading a lot about it on this forum but I want to get it running before I got to full standalone. I know this is kind of working against myself but my harness is already going to be a full stand alone harness all I will have to do is re-pin it and find someone to tune the car because I have no idea where to even start. The only tuning I have done was on a CRX we built and put SDS standalone on it and all the fuel map and timing and everything else is done with this little lcd screen and a couple push buttons and the company put a pretty good base tune on to start.

Anyway the car will go megasquirt just not till next winter.

That would be very cool, it would probably be one of the first MS 2jz's

dont tell spoolin 2 bars though

The way I see it is most people that have a boosted 2JZ have something to make a status statement with not saying all are like that but a lot and they normaly have money to burn so AEM standalone is no big deal but why would I spend $2000 of my hard earned money for something when there is a product that is just as good and proven for $500.

Street rep/cred. is expensive :bang:

Your right I won't get any street cred for my stock ecu 2JZ swap gay miata but the look on all the guy's faces when they get waxed by the gay miata with the small 2JZ sticking through the hood will be good enought for me. Maybe in my next life I'll do a $30,000 swap just for fun. But for now I'll stick to the $2,500.00 budget.

Hmm, Im on the cheap and efficient side- just for the record.

Here are some other pics the gauges are as follows starting from top LC-1, oil preassure, boost, and then the intercooler with the knock off type rs BOV.

vent gauges FTW :winner:

http://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&ik....1&disp=thd&zw

Has anyone on this site done a RX-7 rear conversion I found one for cheap and I feel like it is a good way to put a solid rear in my car for this engine. If so I used search and could not find any real good info on it like what axels to use I can make brackets to brace the rear but what axels do I use and do I have to change my spindles or anythind like that.

Any info will help

Cheap and functional thats what it is all about.

Hells Yea

Nah son its all about street cred.

I guess I will have to go without the street cred then so sad.