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Originally Posted by Sean
(Post 532004)
On another note. I need to see if someone can give me some information. I have previously talked to Dr. Tweak about re-doing my Toyota harness witch he said he can make into a "Standalone" harness. This means I only have to piggy back a few wires into my Mazda computer for power, ground, key signal and something else. So the Toyota ECU handles the engine and the Mazda ECU handles the body. This is all fine and dandy but I think I can do it myself and save $500. I need some input on what you guys think. I need to know what and ECU in general need to run by itself. I know some of the stuff but could really use some help. Is this as simple as finding the main power, ground, key signal, starter signal, and fuel pump signal and wiring those into my mazda stuff and then letting the Toyota should handle the rest. If there is anyone in Md that would not mind meeting up one day or talking on the phone to go over this if you are good at wiring that would be awesome. I am going to Toyota today to get all the pinouts for the ECU. If there is anyone in general that is willing to take a look that would be awesome. I am a novice at wiring and I would like the help to reassure my self not that I don't think I can do it I would like some experienced help on my side.
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I took a really good look at it yesterday actually but I am working a little different I have to piggy back my toyota ecu fuel pump signal to the mazda realay and also with a couple other wires. I am thinking now it might have been easier to use the whole toyota harness and patch it into the mazda harness. Do you by chance have a god pinout of the mazda ecu maybe the one you used for your car? Also wanted to add you car is awesome this is another swap I thought about just the 2J came up me for a goo deal so that is what I went with.
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Actually, I used the s2000 harness, then powered the miata systems by pulling power from the ignition switch of the honda system and running it into the ignition switch of the miata. What you need to do is pin out the toyota computer and figure out which wires trigger the fuel pump relay, then run those wires to the relay and that should then energize the fuel pump. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the kudos on my conversion, it has been a lot of fun to build and drive. |
Yea that helps I see a lot of wiring diagrams in my near future. What is it called when you have the ability to do something but have absolutely no desire? I hate wiring it is not per say difficult but my big ass under the dash with a soldering iron for hours on end is not fun at all, but I will do it to finish my car.lol
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You are preaching to the choir...been there, done that, it is not fun. One thing I found was time really went by fast when I was sorting through all my wiring and identifying connections to keep and those to cut out. I don't know about your project, but S2000 wiring harness pieces are expensive and can be hard to come by, so I was really focused in order to make no mistakes.
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Yea I know the feeling I have been doing my studying so I don't mess up any of my harness I found my for a deal on Ebay because someone didn't know what they had its an actual supra harness and I got it for $200 but they are normally almost $400 so I do not want to mess it up. It will take some time but I hope to have it running in the next few weeks. Did you use the Mazda ecu to control the starter and alternator or did you use the mazda stuff only to power the Honda harness.
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I powered the Honda harness first then the Mazda harness off of the Honda harness Let the Toyota harness power the Toyota EMC and the Toyota fuel pump relay, isolate the fuel pump wires, jump them into the Miata harness and you should be good to go. I konow it iss an over simplification but it is really not that hard. I just posted a couple of pics over on my build thread.
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Originally Posted by hingstonwm
(Post 536120)
I powered the Honda harness first then the Mazda harness off of the Honda harness Let the Toyota harness power the Toyota EMC and the toyota fuel pump relay, isolate the fuel pump wires, jump them into the Miata harness and you should be good to go.
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I think the toyota ecu is powered by the engine compartment fues box witch I will get from a local junk yard and then all I have to do is give it ignition, wire fuel pump relay, all the grounds, and run the other stuff like tach signal, temp, and oil pressure to the mazda dash and I should be good to go. I will cross my fingers and hope for the best.
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Sounds like a good plan of attack. There may be some impedance difference between the tach and the fuel level sending unit. But cross that bridge when you come to it.
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The fuel sending unit will use all the stock miata stuff the only thing that toyota will interfere with the fuel is it will give the relay the on signal. The tack I think I may have to buy a MSD tach driver to convert the signal but we will see.
Dose anyone have an ECU pinout for the miata I have a pdf form of the miata manual but my computer is so slow it locks up everytime I try and open it so I am just looking for the pinout with the lables of what the pins are not a wiring diagram of circuts and all that. |
Originally Posted by TurboRoach
(Post 533045)
This will help then. Its the pinout for the 1.6 cars. I used it when building my adaptronic harness. You'll have to save it and then zoom in on it.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_hEcgzPayF98/S5...CU_Pin-Out.png |
OK I am going to have to save it in a different format but it should work.
Thanks |
All the pinouts I have got from everyone have been very helpful I am in need of one more thing. I may be dumb but I cannot find the ingnition switch signal to the ecu. I am not sure if it is in one of the body plugs or not but if anyone know where it is that would be good.
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Thats because there isn't one. The only wire you will need to worry about is the fuel pump. You should be able to connect the Toyota fuel pump wire to the yellow connector under the dash like is done for the megasquirt.
Here is the spreadsheet I used |
Originally Posted by TurboRoach
(Post 536789)
Thats because there isn't one. The only wire you will need to worry about is the fuel pump. You should be able to connect the Toyota fuel pump wire to the yellow connector under the dash like is done for the megasquirt.
Here is the spreadsheet I used For a recap I am going to connect the Toyota ignition signal wire to pin 1B witch is 12V power (with key on) same as keyed ignition switch, and connect my fuel pump signal to the yellow connector under the dash near the ECU that the wire from pin 1C runs to. Let me know if this sounds right. Also Toyota uses a Fuel Computer and I am not running that so I am going to run a 12V switched power to the yellow connector and it will act as a theft deterrent and fuel pump signal. |
1B is keyed +12V
1C is the circuit opening relay- the spreadsheet is mislabeled. I didn't use it so I didn't worry about it. That sounds right. The yellow connector I'm referring to is near the steering column. I'm not sure if 1C runs to that connector. If it does I'll feel like an idiot... I just ran a wire to the yellow connector from the ecu fuel pump output. |
Is it the only big yellow connector near the steering column. I don't mean to sound like an idiot I just don't want to do this twice.
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Yeah I think so. I'll double check when I get home tonight. If your car was running you could pull it and see if it stopped :)
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I found it its the yellow connector that goes to the black relay under the dash next to the steering column and the fuel pump relay signal wire is the purple wire in the connector. Thanks for the help I am sure I will need more before this is over.
To sum this little bit up I am going to used 12v keyed power for the ignition signal to the Toyota ECU and a Switch for the fuel pump relay to the yellow connector under the dash. |
Ok I am starting the wirinng on my car tonight and was wondering where all you guys mount your megasquirt computers and extra ecu's in these cars there is not a whole lot of room under the panel the stock one is under and I am not sure if it is really safe to put under it or not. Let me know where you all have your computers mounted so I can have a good Idea where to put mine.
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I've seen some in the glove box or mounted to the side of the trans tunnel. Does the toyota ecu not fit under the panel?
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I am not sure if it fits under the panel or not I will find out later today I hope it will it will make it a lot easier if not I will try the trans tunnel or on the back of the fire wall and see hoe that works.
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Does the hood fit?
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Originally Posted by cymx5
(Post 537628)
Does the hood fit?
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4 Attachment(s)
I got some more work done today and some pics. I know how much you all love JDM shit but this is real straight out of south east asia. I got a set of roadster door sills and roadster speaker covers that will work great when I get my new abs door panels in and get rid of the little coner speaker covers. I also got the harness mounted to the fire wall and into the passenger compartment. I also started to mount the ecu witch will be at home right next to the stock 1.6L ecu under the floor panel. Here are some pics to keep all of you guys happy. I mean only good threads have pics right?
Attachment 199441 Attachment 199442 Attachment 199443 This pic is rotated 90 deg. so you have to turn your head to the right to see it other wise it looks like something crazy. Attachment 199444 |
What are you keeping the stock ecu for?
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The stock ECU is running all the body stuff the like the lights heater controls and also the gauge cluster, some of the gauge cluster is controlled by the toyota ecu it is just tapped into the miata harness.
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Stock ECU doesn't control any of the things you just mentioned. Certainly not lights and heater. AC though I think.
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The only function the miata ecu controlled that you need to worry about was turning on the fuel pump. By jumping the Toyota fuel pump wire to that yellow connector you removed the only reason to have the miata ecu.
There may be a couple of wires you might want to move to the toyota ecu if it has provisions for them. The clutch/neutral switch and the parking lights. The parking light wire lets the ecu know the lights are on but has no effect on whether they turn on, it just bumps the idle up a bit. Regarding the AC, it only cut the power to AC under full throttle. It doesn't actually control the AC. |
I didn't know that so I can remove the miata ecu and all the body functions will still work and I can use the miata harness to send all my signals to the gauge cluster from the toyota ecu. In other words the only thing the miata ecu controls is the engine.
Does the miata ecu control the starter signal? It doesn't really matter I guess I can run my own relay to send signal to the starter solenoid |
Yeah as a matter of fact I had my the compute out yesterday as I was installing my MS, eveyhing electrical worked
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Does the stock ECU run the starter relay signal if not I will wire in a relay and be done.
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Originally Posted by Sean
(Post 538004)
... and I can use the miata harness to send all my signals to the gauge cluster from the toyota ecu. In other words the only thing the miata ecu controls is the engine.
Does the miata ecu control the starter signal? No. |
It does not send the signal to the water gauge or the tach?
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Nope. There are 2 temp sensors on the back of the 1.6L. One goes directly to the gauge and the other to the ecu. The tach gets its signal from the coils.
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IT CONTROLS NOTHING BUT THE ENGINE. Pull it out, everything will work, including cranking the engine, it just won't fire obviously. Is this weird for a car of this era? Does the Toyota ECU control everything?
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Yea for the most part the toyota ECU controls everything it gives signal to the tach, the water temp. and almost all the cluster other than the lights and the fuel gauge witch is direct. I will pull the stock 1.6L computer out. Then I guess the tach wire I hooked to the mazda harness for the ignitor won't run the gauge. lol That just made things a whole lot easier. I will have to change my water temp. hook up I made at the ecu other than that all I did was steal power and ground from the miata ecu. I knew I joined this forum for a reason you guys are filled with all sorts of good info. Thanks if I run into more problems I will be sure to let you know.
On another note everything under the dash is wired. Minus the water temp wire I need to re-run now. So all I have to do is figure out what wire I need on the toyota alternator to excite it and run the power wire to that and the starter and I should be able to at least start the engine. I got the fuel pump all hooked up and running, it runs when the key is in the run and start position but not accesory. Thanks agian guys and I should have a video of it running in the next two weeks or so. |
Ok so I checked all my wiring again and all I had to do was remove the wire I had from the toyota ecu coolant temp sensor that I had hooked up to the Miata ECU temp wire witch I now know is not connected to the gauge at all. I have a jumper wire hooked up from the tach signal on the back of the gauge cluster to the Ignitor wire on the toyota ECU. I am not positive if this will work or not but worst case I will have to extend the wire to the engine compartment. I will let everyone know how it all works when I get the toyota fuse box under the hood and get the starter and alternator hooked up.
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Which temp wire did you use? The one that goes to the ecu is the green connector at the back of the head. The black connector w/single wire goes to the gauge.
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I used the green conector at first but I am changing it to use the black conector. I am going to get a miata temp gauge sensor and put it in my toyota cooling system somewhere and run a wire to the factory connector.
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Is there a specific name for the temp sensor I need to run the gauge so I don't go buy the wrong one? Also is one of the sensors single wire and the other two wire or are the both the same.
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The single wire on the back of the head is for the dash gauge. The 2-wire on the back of the head is for the ecu. The single wire on the front of the engine turns on the fans and is NOT connected to the ecu or gauge
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Ok I will get a single sensor and put it into the toyota cooling system and that will work the gauge sweet.
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Ok I think I have all my wiring straight but the car is going to slow down for a little while because they have asked me to work 7 days a week for the next 2 months. This is good and bad. Bad news is I won't have lots of time to work on the car. Good news is the extra $700 a paycheck gives me the money to buy some wheels. I need your guys opinion on this set of wheel I really like them but I am going to try and fit them without flares is it possible. I do not mind streatching a tire a little bit but not a whole lot. They are 15X8 0 Offset in the back and 15X7 15 offset in the front do you think I can get them to fit with a fender roll and a minor pull. Here is the link to the wheels.
15 XXR 513 Black Red Staggered Wheels 90 05 Mazda Miata : eBay Motors (item 360237748630 end time Mar-24-10 23:19:56 PDT) |
honestly, save up and get some 6uls. I know most people on here run them, and theres a reason. There the best size, lightest weight, legit wheel for the price. Youll have a hard time fitting a decent tire with 0 offset on the back.
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For the power hes going to be putting down, the heavier wheels may be a better choice
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I was kinda thinking the same thing weight is not going to hurt me I will most likely end up putting 150# or so of lead in the back anyway. Question is more can I make them fit with out flares with a minor pull and roll.
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Check over at cr.net. Someone is probably running the same setup.
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Originally Posted by leatherface24
(Post 540939)
For the power hes going to be putting down, the heavier wheels may be a better choice
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Originally Posted by Sean
(Post 540974)
I was kinda thinking the same thing weight is not going to hurt me I will most likely end up putting 150# or so of lead in the back anyway. Question is more can I make them fit with out flares with a minor pull and roll.
Originally Posted by faeflora
(Post 541007)
Sexplain that please.
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If I get some flares I will run 15X8 all the way around. I really like the way staggared wheels look and I do not see my self getting any great leaps in traction with a half inch of tire I could gain with a +35 offset. I am thinking more along the lines of they look good and get a decent size tire on them.
Leatherface24 - I plan on keep the car for a long time and I also see myself changing it alot along the way. I do plan to beat on it a little but for the most part it will be a street car so I do not see the beatings being that bad but I could be wrong. |
You could run 15x8's all day on miata without flaring it. You can even run 15x9's with a right offset.
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Yea I am trying to to get as wide a stance as I possibly can. I want to run a low offset my car is low and I plan on keeping it that way I have always wanted the stance to be wider and would like to do it without flares but I see myself needing them.
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I do have a fender roller :)
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You are the man I am pretty sure I am going to need to borrow it in a few weeks this is the look I am going for give or take a little. I think I am going to go with 15 or 16X8 0 offset in the rear and 15 or 16X7 + 10 or +15 in the front.
These are 16X8 0 offset all the way around with 205/40R16 I no this is a NB but you get the idea. Attachment 199241 I am positive I can get a 15X8 0 offset on the back of an NA I just need to make the car belive I can. With a fender roller and some effort they will look nasty. |
NP.
I would recomend more tire out back. Althought the look is cool you will be putting down a good amount of power...you will need more tire back there. |
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I think I just answered my own question here is a set of 15X8 0 offset on a NA all the way around with a fender roll and light pull I know what wheels I am going to buy.
MicaCeli - I'm gonna hit you up in a few weeks to borrow that fender roller if that cool. I'm gonna need it. Attachment 199240 Hells Yea!!!! |
I think with a good fender roll and pull I can get 225 under there no problem.
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Yeah you should be able to.
I have the Eastwood Roller. |
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