2jz Miata build thread
11-30-2009, 10:01 AM
#61
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i am using a drive shaft out of a 93 lexus sc300 witch are two piece so i will use the front half toyota and the back half mazda and there is a shop in Baltimore md that as long as i measure correctly they will cut and the two and remake one for me.
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11-30-2009, 10:04 AM
#62
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Sean, you might want to look into using a Ford 7.5 or 8.8" rear. I just confirmed today that the Factory Five Racing axles with an 8.8" ford will end up being the same compressed lengths of the half shafts as a Miata. Diffs from a V8 Thunderbird are $100 and the axles are $110 each side from FFR. Here are my two diffs. I just put them together today for a comparison. Both come out to 53" where the big end stops and the splined part of the axle starts. The other big advantage is you don't have to worry about a PPF.
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11-30-2009, 10:11 AM
#63
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just so everyone knows i am not a track guy drag racing or on road im not into autocrossing i just like to go out and run the **** out of my car every day. i will agree that the extra motor weight will have negative effects on my handling and i am going to try and fix it as well as possible but it will never be the same as we all know. Needless to say i am not building an all out drag or track car i am just building a nasty street car that i can still drive down windy roads and not want to shot my self or feel like im driving a wet noodle. There are defiantly some pros and cons to this build but for what i do with my car it will be perfect maybe even a lil to much but no one ever complains about to much horse power do they lol.
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11-30-2009, 10:19 AM
#64
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from a resent post at m.net:
Weighed My LS2 Miata Today
I weighed my car on two different scales today (that were both, just State calibrated yesterday) My Total Gross weight with a full Tank of Gas, Jack, Tools in trunk, everything but "Me"; Gross 2740 Lbs. (See Ticket)
This is a Huge & Pleasant surprise for me, as you guys have seen from my pictures there is a lot of steel used in additional re-enforcement, even a large skid-plate, rear-end hoop, cast iron 8.8 diff. etc. than what most people are doing, epecially with conversion kits, currently available.
For what ever reason, my car was actually "Heavy" compared to some other "Stock" Miatas, when I first weighed it "Stock" it was; Gross 2660 Lbs.
It is a Laguna Blue 1994, "C" package that came with power everything, the optional stereo CD player, leather seats with speakers, every Miata option, Granted now I have no stereo, no air, no plastic fender liners, just a lot of what appeared to be minor discards that apparently weighed more than I thought.
So, In Conclusion, My One-Off, No Kit LS2 V8 conversion "Added 80 Lbs of Gross weight over my "Stock" configuration Miata when I started. I also believe the "Balance / Weight distribution" is pretty dang close, and 4 corner weighing will confirm one way or the other.
I weighed my car on two different scales today (that were both, just State calibrated yesterday) My Total Gross weight with a full Tank of Gas, Jack, Tools in trunk, everything but "Me"; Gross 2740 Lbs. (See Ticket)
This is a Huge & Pleasant surprise for me, as you guys have seen from my pictures there is a lot of steel used in additional re-enforcement, even a large skid-plate, rear-end hoop, cast iron 8.8 diff. etc. than what most people are doing, epecially with conversion kits, currently available.
For what ever reason, my car was actually "Heavy" compared to some other "Stock" Miatas, when I first weighed it "Stock" it was; Gross 2660 Lbs.
It is a Laguna Blue 1994, "C" package that came with power everything, the optional stereo CD player, leather seats with speakers, every Miata option, Granted now I have no stereo, no air, no plastic fender liners, just a lot of what appeared to be minor discards that apparently weighed more than I thought.
So, In Conclusion, My One-Off, No Kit LS2 V8 conversion "Added 80 Lbs of Gross weight over my "Stock" configuration Miata when I started. I also believe the "Balance / Weight distribution" is pretty dang close, and 4 corner weighing will confirm one way or the other.
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11-30-2009, 10:31 AM
#66
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My LS1 is ~2550lbs or so with a full tank of gas and me not in it. This is according to the digital scale at the drag strip.
IIRC LS1 + T56 ~ 430 lbs + 125 lbs = 555 lbs.
So the 2JZ adds about another 200 lbs? Crap... It must be the cast-iron block and the huge crank. Still though a straight 6 will sound cool, and make the turbo plumbing a lot easier compared to turbocharging a V8. Plus, if a stock 2JZ is as bulletproof as its reputation, then for a turboed street car IMO the additional weight is worth it.
IIRC LS1 + T56 ~ 430 lbs + 125 lbs = 555 lbs.
So the 2JZ adds about another 200 lbs? Crap... It must be the cast-iron block and the huge crank. Still though a straight 6 will sound cool, and make the turbo plumbing a lot easier compared to turbocharging a V8. Plus, if a stock 2JZ is as bulletproof as its reputation, then for a turboed street car IMO the additional weight is worth it.
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11-30-2009, 10:48 AM
#68
in for the secret of the mounts lol
i'd totally think about selling my setup to do this lol
why would you use the supra ECU for the engine? just so you don't have to do tons of extra wiring? why not run it all through a megasquirt and you have your standalone done too
i'd totally think about selling my setup to do this lol
why would you use the supra ECU for the engine? just so you don't have to do tons of extra wiring? why not run it all through a megasquirt and you have your standalone done too
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11-30-2009, 10:56 AM
#69
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in for the secret of the mounts lol
i'd totally think about selling my setup to do this lol
why would you use the supra ECU for the engine? just so you don't have to do tons of extra wiring? why not run it all through a megasquirt and you have your standalone done too
i'd totally think about selling my setup to do this lol
why would you use the supra ECU for the engine? just so you don't have to do tons of extra wiring? why not run it all through a megasquirt and you have your standalone done too
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11-30-2009, 10:59 AM
#70
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The wiring is not going to be bad either there is a company called Phoenix Tuning and a guy that goes by doctor Tweak. if you send him a 2jz or 1jz or almost any Toyota harness and $500 he will de-integrate all the body plugs and rewire the harness to be an engine harness only. So when i get my harness back i will only have to piggyback 4 wires to my factory harness so basically the engine and trans are on there own computer and the car is on another it should work great.
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11-30-2009, 11:03 AM
#71
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As far as the engine mounts go i will post some pictures when they are completed i have some minor things left to do to them they are not very pretty but they will do there job well and they were cheap to about $25 and some planing and your done.
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11-30-2009, 12:17 PM
#74
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i am not 100% positive about that but i will have my local 2jz expert answer that when i get to the house but i know with an apexi SAFC i can control the fuel map and read boost till about 18psi before i need to go standalone. So to answer your question its a piggy back system.
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11-30-2009, 12:45 PM
#77
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i am not 100% positive about that but i will have my local 2jz expert answer that when i get to the house but i know with an apexi SAFC i can control the fuel map and read boost till about 18psi before i need to go standalone. So to answer your question its a piggy back system.
The main problem is that youre not actually changing the fuel map, youre changing the MAP signal. So if you try to 'pull fuel' with the apexi youre actually decreasing MAP voltage, which pulls fuel on the fuel map but also increases ingnition advance on the timing map.
its just kinda dangerous, especially if you try to run bigger injectors and use the apexi to pull fuel, because essentially youre dramatically advancing the timing across the board.
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11-30-2009, 01:14 PM
#79
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Im very anti SAFC
The main problem is that youre not actually changing the fuel map, youre changing the MAP signal. So if you try to 'pull fuel' with the apexi youre actually decreasing MAP voltage, which pulls fuel on the fuel map but also increases ingnition advance on the timing map.
its just kinda dangerous, especially if you try to run bigger injectors and use the apexi to pull fuel, because essentially youre dramatically advancing the timing across the board.
The main problem is that youre not actually changing the fuel map, youre changing the MAP signal. So if you try to 'pull fuel' with the apexi youre actually decreasing MAP voltage, which pulls fuel on the fuel map but also increases ingnition advance on the timing map.
its just kinda dangerous, especially if you try to run bigger injectors and use the apexi to pull fuel, because essentially youre dramatically advancing the timing across the board.
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11-30-2009, 01:16 PM
#80
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thats matt he was against posting the mounts they are pretty clean but i made the decision to post them not yet of course but i want to post them so i can see more 2jz miatas and hopefully in 3 or 4 years you can just buy a kit but for now i like the idea of having a car no one else has. Regardless of the headach.
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