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Old 12-15-2009, 09:58 PM   #121
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Originally Posted by Sean View Post
i am using a drive shaft out of a 93 lexus sc300 witch are two piece so i will use the front half toyota and the back half mazda
driveshaft from the sc300. you are using the sc300 manual driveshaft i presume?

you said you are using a w58 tranny as well right?

this seems to be an extremely cheap setup if you ask me. i might consider this..but if i were to do it, id just go with the n/a 2jz for now until i had money for the turbo setup, or maybe source out an automatic 2jzgtte and attach a w58 tranny

i used to own a sc300 and the stock motor was suprisingly peppy, could only imagine how it would be in a miata.
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Old 12-17-2009, 01:58 PM   #122
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driveshaft from the sc300. you are using the sc300 manual driveshaft i presume?

you said you are using a w58 tranny as well right?

this seems to be an extremely cheap setup if you ask me. i might consider this..but if i were to do it, id just go with the n/a 2jz for now until i had money for the turbo setup, or maybe source out an automatic 2jzgtte and attach a w58 tranny

i used to own a sc300 and the stock motor was suprisingly peppy, could only imagine how it would be in a miata.
It is an extremely cheap setup when you find the parts in the right spot, and it is relatively cheap with stuff that anyone can find I got the motor for 100 bucks but only because a buddy of mine just did a swap on a 95na supra and he deals with these cars all the time so I have the advantage of having a lot of extra parts available to me. Reality is you can buy and engine harness ecu and trans for about $1100 and if you have a little skill and some tools at your disposal and the will to do it you can for under $2000. I paid $800 for my BP that broke and oil pump 2 months after I put it in. So for the extra money and time I can't go wrong. It also dose not hurt to have a friend as a machinist and another as a welder.
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Old 12-17-2009, 03:46 PM   #123
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Quote:
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It is an extremely cheap setup when you find the parts in the right spot, and it is relatively cheap with stuff that anyone can find I got the motor for 100 bucks but only because a buddy of mine just did a swap on a 95na supra and he deals with these cars all the time so I have the advantage of having a lot of extra parts available to me. Reality is you can buy and engine harness ecu and trans for about $1100 and if you have a little skill and some tools at your disposal and the will to do it you can for under $2000. I paid $800 for my BP that broke and oil pump 2 months after I put it in. So for the extra money and time I can't go wrong. It also dose not hurt to have a friend as a machinist and another as a welder.
moar photos! any more progress?
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Old 12-19-2009, 01:44 AM   #124
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Oh nice. These guys are right down the road from me. Sean how far are you from York Automotive?
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Old 12-19-2009, 04:21 PM   #125
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i was lookin at some of the pics for the motor swap and i couldnt help to notice how close the turbo came to the side of the engine bay, wat do you think you're gonna do to the bay to get intercooler piping to fit right?
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Old 12-20-2009, 05:19 PM   #126
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Oh nice. These guys are right down the road from me. Sean how far are you from York Automotive?
I would say no more than 3 miles we are right off penshop just before you hit 80 if you were coming from 27. You should come down and see it some time just pm me and we can set it up.

Last edited by Sean; 12-20-2009 at 11:30 PM.
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Old 12-20-2009, 05:20 PM   #127
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Originally Posted by -Banks- View Post
i was lookin at some of the pics for the motor swap and i couldnt help to notice how close the turbo came to the side of the engine bay, wat do you think you're gonna do to the bay to get intercooler piping to fit right?
I am going to cut the turbo outlet a lil bit so I can have a 45 deg elbow welded on and then its just a game to make everything else fit.
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Old 12-20-2009, 07:23 PM   #128
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what are you gonna do for a downpipe and exhaust? obviously its gonna be custom, are you gonna bother routing it down the right side like it is stock? or gonna try and make it fit down the left?
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Old 12-20-2009, 11:28 PM   #129
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what are you gonna do for a downpipe and exhaust? obviously its gonna be custom, are you gonna bother routing it down the right side like it is stock? or gonna try and make it fit down the left?
Yea its gonna be a custom 3" downpipe I am going to try and squeeze it down the passenger side out the fender opening there is just enough room by measuring it but if all else fails Ill rout it through the cowl and out the fender. The fender is the last option.
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Old 12-21-2009, 12:12 AM   #130
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any more progress? keep us updated!!! id love to see a video of this beast running!

did you mention your engine management yet?
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Old 12-21-2009, 01:33 PM   #131
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any more progress? keep us updated!!! id love to see a video of this beast running!

did you mention your engine management yet?


There is a lot of snow on the ground so it messed up the weekend a lil but I am waiting on a bunch of parts to come in and there will be much more progress near new years. I will get some pics when I get the other cars out of the garage and mine back on the lift I got all my fuel system stuff so Ill have pics of that too. The management is going to be a stock Toyota ECU with an APEXI SFAC and that should be good for 500hp witch I think is more than enough for the car.
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Old 01-08-2010, 12:08 PM   #132
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Ok guys I know its been a while but I got to do some more work and I'll have even more pics tomorrow. Here is the pics of the new clutch installed and the fuel system re-ran to the drivers side of the engine compartment. I replace the whole feed side with -6 AN aluminum line and just re-bent the return line to where I needed it.
Attached Thumbnails
2jz Miata build thread-miata-fuel-lines-trans-tunnel.jpg   2jz Miata build thread-miata-fuel-lines-fire-wall.jpg   2jz Miata build thread-miata-clutch.jpg  
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Old 01-08-2010, 12:17 PM   #133
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Finally some pictures, this is like trying to watch **** through static
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Old 01-08-2010, 12:34 PM   #134
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Finally some pictures, this is like trying to watch **** through static
So true but its harder to look at the car and not be able to work on it every day why do I need a job again?
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Old 01-08-2010, 01:38 PM   #135
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I made a short list of all the things I've gotten to do this swap and the price just to entertain evreyone.

Engine - $100
Trans,Clutch,Flywheel - $400
Innovate LC-1 wideband - $100
Intercooler - $85
BOV E-bay typeRS - $25
Radiator(Civic 1/2 core) ALU- $65
Turbo,Wastegate,Dump pipe- $220
Boos Gauge Auto mete - Freebie
Brembo Front Rotors - $45
Wilwood superlite calipers -$85
Oil feed line -$30
Oil return line - $100
Modified water neck - $20
Hardog Bar - $50
5-point RCI harnesses - Freebie
Bulk Steel - $100

So far all in all not bad but I am an avid e-bay monster and cl deal hunter gotta keep it cheap somehow.
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Old 01-08-2010, 05:14 PM   #136
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this thread is very inspiring!


hey, with the ebay type rs bov (one of the best ebay blow off valves i might add, depending on the manufacturer,) if the diapragm ever breaks, you can always fix it yourself on the cheap.

DIY: Rebuild your ebay Greddy type-s/rs bov for $3.19 - D-series.org



in for video of the motor in miata on the first fire up!

and will the miata gauge cluster work fine with the 2j motor? if not, i think you should fab a gauge cluster like so:

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Old 01-08-2010, 07:15 PM   #137
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i am deff suscribed! i have been thinking of this for a while.

for the guys talking about handling? wouldnt using a Rear sump version of this motor be better of? if your using a front sump oilpan i assume you just mounted the engine over the steering rack...with a rear sump pan i am sure you can drop it a few inches lowering the center of gravity thus making it handle much better? as long as you pus the motor as far back as possible i dont see you hurting the handling much more than your average V8. ls1 just has the advantage of the alum heads/block.
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Old 01-08-2010, 10:10 PM   #138
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Originally Posted by Jeepster118 View Post
i am deff suscribed! i have been thinking of this for a while.

for the guys talking about handling? wouldnt using a Rear sump version of this motor be better of? if your using a front sump oilpan i assume you just mounted the engine over the steering rack...with a rear sump pan i am sure you can drop it a few inches lowering the center of gravity thus making it handle much better? as long as you pus the motor as far back as possible i dont see you hurting the handling much more than your average V8. ls1 just has the advantage of the alum heads/block.

A rear sump would have worked better as you will see in pics soon but it would have only sat down another inch and I didn't want to spend the 500 on the pan. But it would have saved me some pounds in front of the crossmember.
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Old 01-08-2010, 10:11 PM   #139
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moar pics please!
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Old 01-08-2010, 10:40 PM   #140
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Quote:
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moar pics please!
Just give me a few more hours and ill post the engine mounts and some other stuff they are almost done I'm doing some finishing touches right now.
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