I like how you bent that ABS. I'll be using that trick. :bigtu:

Jeffbucc's life
My life

Motorcycle shops will have cable lubers. They're little aluminum fittings that go over the end of the cable sheeth and have a straw hole for a WD40 straw and a cable lube that goes with them. You'll want to pull the cable out, though. The lube is super sticky gross.

I have this stuff I got from my dad. Super Lube, it's called. Sprays on thin, like WD-40, then sets up to a light grease consistency as the carrier flashes off.

Great for locksets (like the front door of your house) as long as you use it sparingly. I have used it on the kid's bike for years, and it seems to fight the corrosion from leaving the bike outside overnight.

I know you can get away with it but I don't like using a wet lube inside the keyway of a lock. The reason is that anything that stays wet will accumulate dirt and dust. I prefer a graphite "puffer" that shoots dry graphite into the keyway. The graphite dust is fine enough to get worked into the surface of the metal pins and chambers and IMO tends to give a longer lasting smooth operation.

No, certainly not in the keyway. Only for the rest of the unit. I rebuilt both front and rear doorknob/locks for my mom a couple of weeks ago, and that's the stuff I used.

I agree, only graphite in the lock itself, everything else is messy.

It's probably more likely related to the routing of the cable or if something is causing it to bend more than the factory had intended. Also be careful what type of lubrication you use and that it's not going to break down the liner. I don't imagine a penetrating type oil is going to be kind to the nylon/plastic liner.

As usual - keep up the solid work. I can't wait to see this thing get dirty :eek5:

I love Flyin' Miata, but damn do they need to invest in some real packaging material....

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395168905

Ignore the dirty house.

I would eat off the underside of your car, but not sure if I would even sit on your couch...





(completely joking, my college apartment makes that look like the Ritz)

To be fair, the apartment probably looked ok until he opend the FM box and sprayed newspapers all over the place.

Im surprised you are using the FM heat shield If irgured you would have made your own. I had to modify mine to fit on my 94. I bought it used from a guy with a 96 and the sucker wouldnt fit due to the heater hoses in the way. so I had to cut it a little bit to get it to sit better and have the hoses have some clearance.

I'm reaching the point in my head where convenience>anything else. Hence that, and the full FM intercooler hose kit.

The last part of this; the wiring, the hoses, things not fitting right, is starting to wear me down due to the tediousness of it all.

WD40 is not a proper lubricant and dries out quickly. You need a dry lubricant, like graphite or the like. WD40 for lube is a bandaid fix.

WD-40 was mentioned to flush out the crap, not lubricate. Less harsh than something like brake cleaner, and less likely to damage the cable sheathing.

Do this to your FM heat shield, Jeff. You'll thank me the first time you ever have to remove and reinstall it.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395196617

BTW, awesome work on the wiring!!! It looks great and I have no doubt it'll function perfectly.

Go to a bicycle shop (nice Bianchi BTW) and get some teflon impregnated dry lube for that cable. Tri flow is my favorite.

I knew we had some road bikers hiding amongst all us mountain bikers! It is an older frame Bianchi C2C but in my opinion it is one of the best looking road bikes made.

I just decided to get a new cable, the sheathing upon further inspection is cracked in several spots and a new cable was only $20. Cheap peace of mind in my opinion.

Revlimiter, upon his own volition mocked up some custom gauge faces for my AFR/boost in order to tempt me to spend more money with him(not a hard thing to convince me of I've come to find out), and I think they look incredible. They also match the HVAC and instrument cluster perfectly.

For kicks we decided to add a "redline" at 25 psi. I thought it looked neat at first then realized it would give me a nice visual indicator of my boost target. Coincidentally it is 25 psi(unless I decide to run all of it). We also added more tick marks to the AFR gauge for uniformity sake.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395250832

It is also one of the better frames.

source: I ran a bike shop for many years. Opening one as soon as I can get the HE loan to fund the startup.


Also, those gauges are SLICK.

Good luck with the bike shop! Just remember to not spread yourself too thin trying to market to too many different cyclists.

The frame rides so smooth. Why's it always gotta be stiffer! ;) I like my comfortable frame.

Haven't seen this thread yet eh?

https://www.miataturbo.net/insert-bs...no-care-72705/

25 psi?


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395266278

It's not close to your EFR craziness, but the car was tuned(as the P.O. stated) "conservatively" at 25 psi so I think it is a good baseline.

For the few days I had the car it was some of the most fun I've had in a car when flooring it in 3rd gear. Especially when I was driving through canyons in Moab on I-70W.

OK got a chance to get down here and put the intercooler piping in. It went in without really any issues except for a couple modifications I had to make.

Just a few issues that I want to ask your opinion on though. The throttle body on this car is longer than normal due to the flyin miata adapter and so the piping gets kicked out just a hair too much.

This is causing the radiator hose to be squished up against it just a little too much for comfort.

My solution in my head at least, is cutting off 1" of the 90 degree elbow to help give it a little clearance.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395294022

Also due to this the intercooler hose is rubbing slightly on the swaybar.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395294022

The turbo piping went in easy too, but due to it being made for the flyin miata kit, it was short of the turbo by about 6". I could have made it work but then it would have rubbed on the sway bar. So I used a short silicone coupler with a 4" pipe and it gave me just enough clearance of the sway bar bracket and the front subframe.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395294022

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395294022

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395294022

Also, is it going to be bad to wrap the idle air bypass hose clockwise around the pipe to the throttle body? Something tells me it will pinch the hose going behind it.

Recently, both Fireindc and Erat have overcome the hose rubbing issue. I believe one of them let it rub, and the other one actually modified the water neck. It looks to me like if you're going to shorten one of the hoses, the intercooler elbow attaching to the TB would make the greatest difference.

Looking awesome!

I'd cut the 90° TB coupler. It's unnecessarily long at the TB, so much that you can see that the pipe is angling out towards the rad in your second picture. Cut it shorter and magically watch as you create a gap between the upper hose and 90° coupler.

I think the only real solution is TSE's radiator.

Troof!

This is what I did. I trimmed the 90* silicone coupler way down, probably took a good inch off it. Make sure you don't cut too far though, i'd recommend you make incremental cuts and test fit. I was never able to get it to make a gap, but I did lessen the rubbing to a point where they barely touch.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395322287

So far no damage to either hose, i did throw a smidge of grease between the two so they have some lube to move around.

those custom gauge faces to match your cluster is a FANTASTIC idea. holy crap, I can't get over how awesome that is!!! Revlimiter FTW

As for the tb: why not switch to a NB tb and eliminate that stupid ugly retarded NA one with its giant idle valve and hose and the addapter and all that crap? you have an NB manifold and the ecu to control everything, it should be pretty straightforward

Wait, what? Have i missed something? What the fuck turbo is on this again? :makeout:

This.

Yes

+100. Only changes you will need to make are to wire in the VTPS and IAC units from the NB tb. You also have to change some MS idle settings, mainly the frequency at which the valve operates (NB is different).

I have the same ECU as you, and i'm happy to give you my NB idle valve settings that worked with my swap. I can also halp with the wiring if you need :P

Didn't see that. Save an inch, don't cut anything, AND you can sell the spacer to another NA owner.

Im pretty sure all of us with FM piping had to cut some off of that 90 at the TB to help with the reroute. Here is how mine cam out. Sometimes I wonder why FM angled the coldside pipe but not enough to snake a reroute through but enough to get in the way. Aslo my radiator is bigger than yours so you can do it.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...urbo-image-jpg

^^^no adapter plate.

Jeff - I can send you a tight radius elbow like the one on my car... It's a cast elbow. It was really the only way for me to get around smashing into my coolant neck.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395339767

^^^^^no adapter plate.

I saw that, looking at his current fitment I still think he'd clear by quite a bit. Mine couldn't even be assembled without the tight radius elbow so he's already a step ahead.

look at his pic, he has a good inch of material he can cut and that should clear any contact. FWIW, mine's been rubbing hard against my coupler for years now (so about 3,000 miles).

I was about to modify my upper water neck on my rad, but I might try trimming that 90* coupler first. I was having issues where my upper rad hose was pretty well jammed against the 90* on my 1.8 swapped car w/ a reroute.

2860rs turbo ;)

The gauges do look incredible.

So why exactly is the spacer plate necessary? I was just taking a look at it and it seems like I can just remove it and reinstall the 1.6 throttle body. It doesn't seem like clearance will be a huge issue by just removing the spacer itself.

MY solution in my head is taking the rubber washer off the top of the radiator mounts. That will allow me to move the top of the radiator forward 1/2". Then trim another 1/2" off the silicone elbow. That should give me plenty of room without buying a new throttle body(for now at least, I do want to get rid of it.)

Is there a very sound reason as to the thick ass rubber spacer on the upper radiator mount? I don't even have one on my Jetta radiator mount. Doesn't seem necessary if you torque the bolts down correctly.

I believe the spacer is a kludge so you can use the 1.6 TB and thus the giant ugly idle air valve etc with your stock harness, connectors and ECU in your 1.6 car. on't get me wrong, its a beautifully made kludge and works well for the above application, but its not something you need when running a Megasquirt.

You may need to do a little electrical work in the MS to accommodate, but the NB TB with the stock VTPS really is the way to go in this case.

Now to track one down....

Anyone selling one?(I'm looking at you parts supplier Vlad!)

So because of the new position of the turbo I had to make some pretty major changes to the IWG bracket so that they would line up again. After drilling and sanding and bending I have gotten it pretty close to perfect. Just need to widen the waste gate rod role a little so it doesn't rub.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395372207

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395372207

Also test fitted the turbo shield and need to make a couple modifications to make it work.

Need to trim some off the front of it so the waste gate rod doesn't rub.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395372207

And I think I need to cut this bracket off due to the brake bias adjuster being in the way of the bracket it normally bolts to. Either cut it or bend it backwards 180 degrees to attach to the brake bias bolt you see in the bottom of the picture.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395372207


I also removed the flyin' miata spacer and put the throttle body back on just to see how much clearance I would have...yup, it is the working answer. Not only does it pull it completely off the radiator hose but it also pulls the intercooler hose off the front sway bar even more so it will rub less.

I could trim more off, but as other have said, might as well get rid of the root problem while I am at it.

I told you to message me if you wanted a heat shield made!

I totally forgot! My brain is all over the place these days.

Haha, oh well. Shows that you are human after all.

Fitted the turbo heat shield . Took a little grinding and cutting to get it to fit but luckily I didn't have to do too much to get it to fit. Also finished the waste gate bracket so the rod isn't rubbing against anything.

I remove some of the lip up front so that the oil feed line wouldn't rub against it.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395415053

Bent the middle bracket a lot to allow it to bolt to the brake bias knob. Turned out great though.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395415053

Also got my lower radiator hose from Vlad, and with a little trimming it fit with 1/2" of clearance off the intercooler hose.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395415053

Then I decided to make a new air filter box to help lower the intake temps. I didn't have any aluminum so I cut some ABS plastic and used the old box as a template. The reason I didn't use the old box was that the hole for the air filter was unnecessarily huge.

old box

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395415053

New box with aluminum tape to help reflect the heat a little more. I'll find something that is more one piece to clean it up a little later.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395415053

Perfect fitment

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395415053

Rough fitment, still waiting on the brackets I epoxied onto the plastic to cure fully before I bolt it down. I just need to buy a couple inches of 3" metal tubing to slip onto the 90 degree elbow.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395415053

I like it!

This is looking great man. Killer Scooby band-aid too ;)

Well, except the engine/filter moves, and the heat shield doesn't.

Good call Curly. I recall a number of people have cut through their filter neck because they did not take drivetrain movement into consideration.

Good call, agreed. Didn't consider that. Think 1/2" more space would give it enough room to flex?

Yes. 1/4" on each side is more than enough. what I'd do is carefully notch and CURL the sheet metal around the hole instead of cutting it off. It will be much much less prone to cut that way

Widen it 1/2" and maybe put some sort of rubber trim(hose with a cut down the side works well) around the circumference of the hole so there is no sharp edge.

If you don't want to go that route - Do what I did - take a piece of silicone or rubber vacuum hose and cut down one side then place it over the sharp edge of the material you just cut. This will make sure that even with the movement you aren't likely to do damage.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1395419778

Bryan do you have a build thread anywhere on your Miata? All the little engine bay shots and other assorted pictures I've seen make it look incredibly nice.

Everytime I see a super clean white Miata I have second thoughts about LSB. It just looks so good when it is done right.

---

Also thank goodness for nice exhaust shops! They just gave me 8" of 3" pipe:giggle: for free.

Ya sell the adapter you dont need that bish.

yes. everywhere. search "Dem768"

Gracias.

I also picked up a 99 throttle body off a guy in Arizona for dirt cheap, so I should get that in the next week. Now I need to look up what wiring changes are necessary to make it work.