93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread
#4221
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Seriously, I'm at a loss as to what that might be. It DOES look like a plastic cage for a set of ball bearings but there are not ball bearings in a BP. There are however ball bearings inside an EFR...
Plastic or metal, ferrous or not (stick a magnet to it) will also help with identification. I mean, if its plastic that's not going to help, but you get the idea. in4answers.
Plastic or metal, ferrous or not (stick a magnet to it) will also help with identification. I mean, if its plastic that's not going to help, but you get the idea. in4answers.
#4223
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Looks like a grind mark from balancing.
Those pieces have been bugging the crap out of me. I've been scouring exploded diagrams and parts lists, and I just don't see where it's a part of anything that should be inside an engine. The best I can come up with is something that got injested.
Those pieces have been bugging the crap out of me. I've been scouring exploded diagrams and parts lists, and I just don't see where it's a part of anything that should be inside an engine. The best I can come up with is something that got injested.
#4228
Well as Aidan stated, it may have been premature doing a tear down of the block, but those bearings made it rather fortuitous that I did.
EO2K, the black pieces are not magnetic, but haven't tested if they are plastic or not yet. Turbo spins perfect without any catches/play.
Just looking at the bottom of the valves nothing is amiss, they literally only have about 500 miles on them so they still look new.
My guess is a blow head gasket and maybe coolant making it into #4? Upon closer inspection the surface film of oil is looking rather milky on the head/oil pan. But I shut it down hot, and it sat outside in the rain for a couple days.
Some rust on the cam lobe tips, but the head looks normal besides that.
EO2K, the black pieces are not magnetic, but haven't tested if they are plastic or not yet. Turbo spins perfect without any catches/play.
Just looking at the bottom of the valves nothing is amiss, they literally only have about 500 miles on them so they still look new.
My guess is a blow head gasket and maybe coolant making it into #4? Upon closer inspection the surface film of oil is looking rather milky on the head/oil pan. But I shut it down hot, and it sat outside in the rain for a couple days.
Some rust on the cam lobe tips, but the head looks normal besides that.
#4229
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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Not sure is this is a kosher thing to do, but could you pour a bit of oil into all the cylinders and see if 4 drains faster. Because if you don't have to pull the pistons then you don't have to hone the block, etc.
#4231
While I'm trying to figure out my next move, which I believe to be the following:
-84mm Wiseco XX rings
-MLS Headgasket
-Water pump &pulley kit and associated gaskets
-Crankshaft front seal set
-Oil Pan Gasket Set
-Rear Main Seal Set
-ARP Flywheel bolts(need new ones anyways)
-Camshaft front Seal Set
-Exhaust & Intake Manifold Gaskets
Not sure if I'm forgetting anything there, but it roughly works out to be $330 to rebuild the bottom end in parts, no clue what associated labor will be depending on who I get to rebuild. I want to take it up to Curly in OR, but not sure if I have the time to take that trip.
Going to resurface my flywheel as it looks like it is in great shape. Probably get a new 6 puck ACT clutch disc as mine is getting a little worn out. Reuse my pressure plate as it still looks good.
I know the person who rebuilds it will hot tank and clean all these parts but I figure less time cleaning = less labor costs to me.
Cleaned out my oil pick up
Removed gasket from oil pan and cleaned all the things
Ditto on the crank case cover(not sure on the right name)
Ditto on the block and chased all the threads to remove gummed up gasket.
-84mm Wiseco XX rings
-MLS Headgasket
-Water pump &pulley kit and associated gaskets
-Crankshaft front seal set
-Oil Pan Gasket Set
-Rear Main Seal Set
-ARP Flywheel bolts(need new ones anyways)
-Camshaft front Seal Set
-Exhaust & Intake Manifold Gaskets
Not sure if I'm forgetting anything there, but it roughly works out to be $330 to rebuild the bottom end in parts, no clue what associated labor will be depending on who I get to rebuild. I want to take it up to Curly in OR, but not sure if I have the time to take that trip.
Going to resurface my flywheel as it looks like it is in great shape. Probably get a new 6 puck ACT clutch disc as mine is getting a little worn out. Reuse my pressure plate as it still looks good.
I know the person who rebuilds it will hot tank and clean all these parts but I figure less time cleaning = less labor costs to me.
Cleaned out my oil pick up
Removed gasket from oil pan and cleaned all the things
Ditto on the crank case cover(not sure on the right name)
Ditto on the block and chased all the threads to remove gummed up gasket.
#4232
Cpt. Slow
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All looks very good.
You can reuse your flywheel bolts unless theyre damaged. Also you're looking for felpro's "lower conversion" gasket set. It'll have everything for the short block, minus rings, bearings, and a few seals on the sides of the block.
You can reuse your flywheel bolts unless theyre damaged. Also you're looking for felpro's "lower conversion" gasket set. It'll have everything for the short block, minus rings, bearings, and a few seals on the sides of the block.
#4233
In regards to the main and rod bearings, is standard the norm that everyone gets or is that something you buy after measurements are taken into account for clearances/tolerances.
Also saw Andrew and Emilio state its hard to find ACL bearings at the moment. What is a recommended alternative?
#4234
Cpt. Slow
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I have a set you can buy. Youll wanna measure to make sure it's what you need though. That much damage could of created hest and destroyed your bearing surfaces, and therefore you'd need oversized bearings and a regrind.
#4237
I think having the block machined once and for all will be the best deterrent to this happening again, I hope at least.
I guess to look at the bright side, my bearings were pretty close to causing a lot more damage so it may have been good to tear it down and take a look. Just glad my crank bearing surface didn't get destroyed. There is basically no damage to the crank surface, comparatively.
Going to have another shop recheck my valve lash while I'm at it as well. I think part of the performance issues is the valve not full closing.
I wish I had someone local I "knew" I could trust.