Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Looks good, although I still think you should have drilled the frame rails out with a holesaw or something just in case water gets in there somehow, because now it would be REALLY trapped.

However, it's probably fine. Just double check your sealant after it dries and whatnot. My frame rails for example:



Obviously not comparing the cleanness of the car, lol. But the design of the frame-rails is to prevent moisture from getting trapped.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

No, it's not fine. No car is watertight. Water is controlled by channelling, draining and ventilating. Mazda put drain holes in the frame rails for a reason. You've made a serious mistake sealing those up. Some of the water/snow that falls on your car will make its way inside the body panels. When this happens, the water makes its way to the bottom of the car through designed-in water channels. The water channels target the various holes drilled, on purpose, in the bottom of the car. Those need to be open to let the water out and to ventilate.

At this point, you can either:
1. Remove the frame rail reinforcements. Make sure that the OEM drain holes in the frame rails are open and drill corresponding holes in the reinforcements. Re-install.

2. Drill drain holes through both the reinforcement and the frame rails at several locations.

Go easy on the sealing.

Jeffbucc

Hmmm to me it seemed like water had no way of getting in the rails unless it was flipped up into them. Luckily sealant is easy to remove once cured.

FireInc I love your rails, I'm not confident mine are doing much after I see how straight yours are. And how easily mine bent.

I guess I thought I could totally seal moisture from affecting the frame rails further but now I realize you're right. Condensation, seepage happens, no way to keep it unaffected.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

And that is after hammering them over my mangled frame rails. I noticed how bent yours were too, I'm sure they are doing SOMETHING but they certainly aren't as stiff looking as mine. You know what to do.. Frame Rail Reinforcement Kit - Static Nine Garage

Haha, the FM ones are really nice too, and i think boss frog makes some as well. I really like these though, they have a nice fit and finish and were $100 shipped to my door. I think they are $100 + shipping now, but still killer deal.

Jeffbucc

Trying to decide if the stainless steel Flyin' Miata rails are worth it or just spend a lot less for the V8R/S9G rails.

In the mean time, I finally got the door done for the drivers side.

All the pieces of the puzzle assembled



Expanding rivets plastic for the holes, which, by the way, if anyone wondering is 1/4" wide(not diameter; width).



Black finishing screws to add a touch of oem look.



Rubber grommets that I added to keep vibrations out of the door panel.



Tiny O-ring I added to the screw to stop, again, rattling and movement.



Finished pull strap which comes out of the door panel vertically. Decided that it would be a little easier/natural. Not sure about the length yet, I may cut them smaller.



and the finished product, turned out excellent and doesn't move at all, hitting the panel produces no rattles!

Yes I realize the arm rest looks nasty with how shiny it is, it was just very dry so I am re-moisturizing the vinyl with some VRT.








My family is down for the holidays so I needed to move the car out of the way so they could actually use it. While it was so low to the ground I decided to see what the wheels will look like on the car. Bronze was the right color to get, the car isn't even close to being assembled and I can already see it in my head.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

So much awesome!!

I've got the FM rails. I got the SS for track duty. My local track has some high curbing and I figured less chance of rust if/when they got scratched up. BTW, with door bars, the frame rails are an utter waste from a stiffening standpoint. But they do protect the OEM rails from damage.

Like I said, I'm going to cry when your pristine miata spins off track. I just can't believe how beautiful it is. That old man with the white Miata would be shocked.

Efini~FC3S

iTrader: (4)

I recently installed the Flyin' Miata rails and I'm glad I spent the extra money for the nice stainless ones. In the long run, it's totally worth the extra $80 or so, especially considering how much time, money, effort you're putting into your car.

I would recommend them

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

The powdercoating on my s9g rails has held up so far, and my car is low and i live on a dirt road. However, the FM rails give you the potential to add their butterfly brace.

It depends on your needs for the car. I never plan on adding door bars OR the butterfly brace to my car. It's actually pretty damn stiff as-is now. I need to soften up and raise the suspension for more travel and flex if anything.

Jeffbucc

Thanks! I didn't think about the fact that they are not needed with the doors bars...do they really negate the need for frame rails that much? Makes sense really though. From a protection stand point they will be nice.

I will cry as well, my hope is that I will be able to refrain from driving it at 9/10's on the track.

I haven't talked to Dave in a long while and I wonder if he is still following the thread at all. I'd be interested to see what he thinks of how I've changed the car.

I needed a new under engine plastic tray since when I tried to clean mine it crumbled into 4 pieces so I ordered one from Flyin' Miata and figured while I'm getting that part I ordered the S.S. frame rails as well. Powder coated mild steel frame rails seems a bad idea after all the surface rust on my subframes. I love having Flyin' Miata so close, shipping is only a day or two at the most. Plus they have awesome customer service.

So I think I have changed my standpoint on a stripped down loud obnoxious car and want a little refinement in the cabin. What do people recommend for sound deadening on the interior? Cheap hardware store stuff or go legit with Second Skin sound deadening. The S.S. stuff is quite pricy but actually works well unlike dynamat/other vendors.

revlimiter

iTrader: (1)

Parts Express has some great sound damping stuff. I've used their vinyl by itself before. I understand it should be paired with some asphalt backed sheets, but it does pretty well by itself.

Sound Damping in the Car Audio Department at Parts Express | 409

Also, those wheels and that paint are incredible together. Can't believe the pace of this build.

mgeoffriau

iTrader: (7)

What frame rails are those? I had a set made by a member here and I can't imagine being able to deform one of them like yours is.

Jeffbucc

I have no idea, previous owner had them on the old car. No vendor name or anything so I'm guessing they were a one off.

Jeffbucc

I want to get all the tedious small jobs out of the way before Tuesday; when I get my bolts back. I forgot my nice camera so this is all cell phone quality, apologies.

Decided to protect myself from cuts in the sheet metal around the roll bar.

I used door sill trim I had left over from the second Miata with some good flexible shoe goo. Fill up the inside with shoe goo and then pinch the ends together nice and tight. Slide it over the sheet metal and pull/push hard to get it to fit onto the tight curves well. Then grab some needle nose pliers and give it another quick squeeze to ensure a tight fit.



Nice finished product



After grabbing my tail lights I realized how scuffed up and scratched they were. In keeping things uniform with my turn signals I sanded it down with 170/300/800/2000. I had to use really coarse sandpaper to pull the deeper scratches out of them. I also decided to do both sets just in case one breaks, or if I decided to sell one of them.

After 2k wet sand. You can see the light hazing where the light reflects onto the lens.



Restored the plastic on the back of the tail lights



Difference from untouched to polished light with sealant added.



4 lights lined up and pretty



Next up all the plastic trim panels inside the car.

Scrappy Jack

iTrader: (2)

Great idea on the trim around the roll bar cuts.

If you decide to sell a set of taillights, send me a PM. I may never get around to doing it and even if I do, it likely won't be done as well or as thoroughly as you will have done.

Zaphod

What products do you use to restore the plastic and to seal the lights after the polish, also what did you use for the stainless door sills...? Thanks!

Jeffbucc

Meguiars aluminum polish for the door sills

Menzerna Power lock Sealant (lasts about 4-6 months)

Adams Super VRT plastic/rubber/vinyl trim restore

Jeffbucc

Ill let you know. Each tail light has a tiny crack on the colored portion of the lenses. So not the outside surface but the inside.

I'm contemplating removing the plastic housing and popping out the plastic coloring and replacing the bulbs with matching LEDs.

Jeffbucc

Excuse the cell phone pictures. I can't stand not having my camera on me.

I'm hoping this is the last of the painting I have to do. Really tired of sanding...really really tired of sanding.

All the ball joints got the rust removal service along with the steering rack assembly







Then a quick lick of paint...turned out pretty good! I'll take some better picture of the parts once the paint cures long enough to handle.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Yes. The door bars will carry the load. They're stronger/stiffer and better positioned as a roof "replacement." There are some pretty good threads about it. Frame rails are still well worth it as a "scuff" plate.

9/10th. LOLOLOLOL!! Have you looked in the mirror lately? Is ANYTHING in this thread done at only 9/10th?

Jeffbucc

Decided to try a different route for the door will plates. Looks really good. Should hide scrapes/scratches well, which is something I've always hated with unpainted steel/aluminum.