93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread
#801
Those frame rails are a tight fit, and will likely scrape some of your freshly applied undercoating as you press them flush.
While the frame rails are off, make sure the drain holes in the car's rails are open.
One thing I did not like about the FM rails is that the mounting studs for the fuel/brake line clips are on the bottom. I've had off-track excursions where the frame rails got scraped. In fact, the main reason I put frame rails on my car was to act as a skid plate. I'm working on a safer track solution for the line clips. I'll let you know what I come up with. (In other words, I'm fully expecting you to race ahead of me and solve this problem for me ).
Remind me on the door card material you used . . . ABS?
While the frame rails are off, make sure the drain holes in the car's rails are open.
One thing I did not like about the FM rails is that the mounting studs for the fuel/brake line clips are on the bottom. I've had off-track excursions where the frame rails got scraped. In fact, the main reason I put frame rails on my car was to act as a skid plate. I'm working on a safer track solution for the line clips. I'll let you know what I come up with. (In other words, I'm fully expecting you to race ahead of me and solve this problem for me ).
Remind me on the door card material you used . . . ABS?
#803
Then after that is removed you'll think to try to pull the casing apart but first take out the middle assembly to reveal 4 more screws. Remove those and then you can separate the bottom of the housing from the alternator assembly.
Very easy, just need to be delicate
Hey man, I just told you to spray it.
BTW, resist the urge to clean the shaft where the brush rides (copper section below the bearing). Sure, wipe it down (alcohol or acetone), but don't try to sand or wire brush it, as this will mean the brush has to re-seat, accelerating wear.
BTW, resist the urge to clean the shaft where the brush rides (copper section below the bearing). Sure, wipe it down (alcohol or acetone), but don't try to sand or wire brush it, as this will mean the brush has to re-seat, accelerating wear.
Thanks for the info rleete! Props!
Those frame rails are a tight fit, and will likely scrape some of your freshly applied undercoating as you press them flush.
While the frame rails are off, make sure the drain holes in the car's rails are open.
One thing I did not like about the FM rails is that the mounting studs for the fuel/brake line clips are on the bottom. (In other words, I'm fully expecting you to race ahead of me and solve this problem for me ).
Remind me on the door card material you used . . . ABS?
While the frame rails are off, make sure the drain holes in the car's rails are open.
One thing I did not like about the FM rails is that the mounting studs for the fuel/brake line clips are on the bottom. (In other words, I'm fully expecting you to race ahead of me and solve this problem for me ).
Remind me on the door card material you used . . . ABS?
I'm thinking of drilling a hole in the side of the rail and using my tap and die to match the bolt threads and relocate it to the factory mount locations. Or a simpler way would be to buy electrician stainless steel zip ties and zip tie it higher.
The door cards were abs plastic. Speaking of which I'm not too happy with the door pulls. They work yes but by protecting the exposed metal of the door from rattling via the door latch rod it binds a bit and doesn't give it a solid feel, I think I might just go back to the regular door handles. Especially since Revlimiter sent me his Leather door pulls for free in my order!
Yeah I'm going to approach this one slowly. Is it worth buying electrical contact cleaner over say brake cleaner to clean it up a little?
#809
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Personally agree with alum, i'd just brush the alum and call it a day though. That way, no matter how many times I pull and replace the engine (read: too many damn times), i cant scratch it and mess up the finish (LOL).
#819
Oh I am, but in the words of spinal tap, "that one goes to 11!".
You guys didn't have me convinced on a natural look until I started looking at painted manifolds. It looks, as you said, just wrong. Not bad mind you, just doesn't look good. Called the powder coater and he recommended an actual aluminum Powdercoating color that comes off pretty exact, after researching issues with just clear coating I think I'll go with that.
You guys didn't have me convinced on a natural look until I started looking at painted manifolds. It looks, as you said, just wrong. Not bad mind you, just doesn't look good. Called the powder coater and he recommended an actual aluminum Powdercoating color that comes off pretty exact, after researching issues with just clear coating I think I'll go with that.
#820
Sweetness! Just sold my 18" wheels/tires for $1100 off my Jetta, now I can start looking for a hard top. I want to get the one in Sacramento but I honestly for the life of me can't think of when I'd get a chance to make a 20 hour round trip drive to grab it. Unless Vlad, you want to ship it via Greyhound for me!