Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1380700)
Curious if there's a spec to how large in diameter the reference line can be to the MAP sensor. I know on BOV, the volume of air moving matters, thus a fatter line would be more responsive. But for a pressure transducer, does a narrow/long line dampen or delay the response? /postulating
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Heh, I got home yesterday just as the snow started to fall.
Glad to know everything is working even better than before at this point. |
My windows get notoriously slow when the weather gets cold
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Originally Posted by Forrest95M
(Post 1380858)
My windows get notoriously slow when the weather gets cold
I'm pretty sure my nb1 antennae froze halfway down last week. I thought it was broken, but turns out it just froze on the way down... |
Originally Posted by ridethecliche
(Post 1380878)
I'm pretty sure my nb1 antennae froze halfway down last week. I thought it was broken, but turns out it just froze on the way down...
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Originally Posted by Forrest95M
(Post 1380858)
My windows get notoriously slow when the weather gets cold
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New grease on the rails does wonders.
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The tracks get dirty and need to be cleaned, mine have to be cleaned but I've never felt the need to fix it, just like a lot of other things on the car....
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I had motorcycle lube that I sprayed in with one of those straw like nozzles.
It worked pretty well other than my dropping tnt nozzle into the track where it has lived for the last few months. I'm too lazy to open up the assembly. The lube sprayed into the rails worked well enough. I'm sure actually putting grease on the tracks would be even better. |
Yeah I've looked into all the window issues before. I've had to take apart my switches and clean them already. The up switch has been a problem for a while, so I think it finally went.
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Originally Posted by Leach0789
(Post 1381144)
Yeah I've looked into all the window issues before. I've had to take apart my switches and clean them already. The up switch has been a problem for a while, so I think it finally went.
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Originally Posted by Forrest95M
(Post 1381150)
Like the center console switch? Just pop it apart and take a punch to the contacts to get them to meet, I cracked the plastic that they are on but they still work fine. Saved me about $70, the cleaning method didn't work, the switch was just too worn down so that's what I had to do to get it to work.
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I picked up a used window switch from Treasure Coast and all is well!
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just noticed this was in the diy section. moved to build threads
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1 Attachment(s)
iata is up and running for the Spring. Started off by having it re-tuned by Matt. Ever since I replaced/upgraded my MAP sensor, things have not been right; running rich all the time, especially at idle. Matt did a wonderful job with the tune, and its running better than ever.
Took a drive out to CT a couple weeks ago, and ran into an interesting issue. I hit a dirt road, and my temps immediately started getting warm. After a minute, I realized my fans were not kicking on. I hit the Diagnostics box with a piece of wire, and was only getting the relay to click. Replaced the cooling fan fuse, and as soon as I hit the diags box again, the fans kicked right on. Took the Miata out the next day, dead fans again. Tried the diags box, and not even a relay click. I started poking around more and made sure that my coolant temp sensor was reading correctly in TunerStudio. What I eventually found was a bad connection at the fan harness. One of the male spade connectors had slipped on top of the female connector (read: bad penetration, giggity). I haven't touched that connector in years, it boggles my mind that it just became a problem now. I fixed the connector, and was able to get the fans to kick on - even with the original fuse and relay. Replacing the fuse in the beginning and having the fans run again seemed to be a complete coincidence. Very odd! I hate electrical stuff. Autocross in 2 weeks! I'll be at ADSI with a couple other MT forum members if anyone else wants to join us. Attachment 181246 |
pic doesn't work?
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My car lost crank/cam signal because of connectors I hadn't touched in while. They sell electronics cleaning sprays, it flashes off as quick as brake cleaner but is probably safer for polymers. You can clean up all the connectors that are accessible and maybe throw some dielectric grease to help block the elements from creating surface oxidation over time. Just a thought. I hadn't had a problem since.
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1407183)
My car lost crank/cam signal because of connectors I hadn't touched in while. They sell electronics cleaning sprays, it flashes off as quick as brake cleaner but is probably safer for polymers. You can clean up all the connectors that are accessible and maybe throw some dielectric grease to help block the elements from creating surface oxidation over time. Just a thought. I hadn't had a problem since.
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2 Attachment(s)
Survived another autocross! Everything ran well for the whole day. However, I'm pretty unhappy with the performance of the DZ102 tires. They've been great on the street, but are seriously lacking on the course. Time to fork over some money for real rubber I suppose. But all in all it was a great day.
Finally got my seat installed just in time. It's a very good fit for me. Even on the sliders, I am lower than my stock seat. Attachment 180999 Mazda friends before we headed down to ADSI! Here is the build thread for the NC: https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...o-build-92792/ Attachment 181000 I had one small casualty - one of the mounts on my FM heatshield broke. I have a couple friends who TIG very well, so getting it fixed shouldn't be a problem. It's more of just an annoyance. http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...psbemzyhqe.jpg |
Do I see 4 point harnesses in one of those pictures? If so you need to remove them and go to 5/6 point harnesses. 4 point are extremely unsafe.
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