Can't help you there. I have an old Hero 2 with a 3.5mm mic jack. When my camera is mounted on the windshield, the lapel mic is tucked behind the rearview mirror. When it is mounted on the roll bar, the mic is taped down in the trunk to keep it out of the wind, but still pick up exhaust sounds. I don't charge the camera in the car. I bought extra no-name batteries off Amazon and swap the battery during the lunch break. Each battery is good for three 20 minute sessions.

I have this stereo mic, and it is very high quality. I got free with a camera purchase several years ago.

https://smile.amazon.com/Olympus-145...ds=olympus+mic

.

 

That's actually a concern of mine mounting my GP3+ to my roll bar so I've been sticking to the suction cup, no pun intended.

 

Pulled the fuel pump, fucked with it. Pretty sure I have it a good inch lower in the tank now. Lesson learned. Don't mix and match hangars, the 90-93 hanger is different from the 94-97. If this adjustment doesn't fix it I'll just keep ******* with it.

Pistons are totally dry. So apparently the oil isn't coming in there. Or at least not staying there.

Engine is super overfilled. Like really overfilled. Combination of being hard to read with new oil, different oil cooler setup, and dumping a catch can full of oil means I have too much oil in there.

Theory: At idle the oil is blocking the turbo drain, letting it build up. When on the track the oil is moving around enough that the turbo is able to drain. Going to drain some out. Get it to a good level and go from there.

 

Empty to full is 4 quarts. How hard is that?

lol

 

I had some buddies over a while back while I was putting the rebuilt head on my car. They wanted to help, so I let one guy do the oil. He dumped the 5 quart jug in the motor and was looking for more before I stopped him.

 

Then I lost some with the crankcase vent incident. Then I added some more. Then I saw my low oil pressure light under braking. So I added a bit more. Then I lost some from burning. Who knows what I'm at now...

With a big oil cooler what should the dipstick be at when cold.

 

I run a different oil cooler setup than you, but for me I just set the oil level on the full mark.

 

You don't drain the cooler when you drain the pan. When you drain the pan you fill enough to replenish the pan. Four quarts comes out, four quarts goes in. If you use a different dipstick then you mark the dipstick once you have added your Four quarts and that is your new full mark.

 

What keeps the cooler from draining?

Got tired of the melting bumper, so made something up to protect it.

 

Man, you really like using rivets, don't you?

 

They look 10x better than bolts.

 

But do they look 10x better than just extending the exhaust tip?

 

There you go, bringing logical solutions into this thread. No place for it here.

 

Yes. The angle is all weird to get around the trailer hitch.

 

I have that mic ^ I haven't tried it yet. Need to add that on my list of things to do.

 

Fair enough, I figured there was probably a reason. Either that or you were being lazy haha

 

Some of both

 

I dont think this will help you, but wen i was doing engine testing at ford, we would weigh the oil out, and score the dipstick at the proper oil level.

I think your oil adding procedure should be....

(starting from a drained pan) add 4 quarts. Do not turn engine on. Lower vehicle and let it sit on level ground for a while, so oil can settle. Score dipstick at this level.

Once engine is hot, check oil level. Add oil until at your calibrated mark.

done.

 

I tried for ages to find a vibration in the audio of my GoPro. Ended up being the switch on the top of the unit. It had just enough free play to rattle. I disassembled the inner case and placed two tiny squares of paper as packers under the switch = fixed.

As for preventing the cooler from draining back to the sump leading to a false 'high' - that's what the filter typically does (doesn't it?). I believed it contained an anti drain back valve

 

^ My GoPro also has a rattling thing inside the case. A touch of solder fixes it. But... Once you hear the difference between the internal mic and a decent external mic, you won't want to ever use the internal mic again. So, I haven't bothered to fix the rattle. External FTW.