<p>ugh drilled and slotted&nbsp;<img alt="Jerkit" src="https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/jerkit.gif" style="height:25px; width:23px" title="Jerkit" /></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>so you down graded your rotors</p>

 

You're right... I just double checked. I was misinformed, meh

 

<p></p><p>If you actually want to know why instead of just trusting all knowing brake master Sean, read this:</p><p>https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...estions-81577/</p><p>From start to finish.</p>

 

I'll agree about the pads, but everything else above is wrong. Especially if you think drilled rotors are "good" rotors.

You need to spend more time reading/asking before spending/posting.

 

<p>I'm the only person I've ever heard say that the 1.8 swap isn't worth it. And that's because I'm planning on going to an even bigger swap in the near future. If you don't have bigger plans the 1.8 swap is awesome.</p>

 

New plan. Use the pads I bought and sell the rotors for $50 or more. Free pads!

Thanks for the input

 

Such a typical steve move.

 

Hmm. Did some reading and called FM, BEGI, and some of my local track rats. I am going to try out these rotors and pads and see how they perform against my stock setup. Will then look into better suited rotors if these ones seems to be ineffective or wearing down my pads too quickly.

 

<p>you need to read more.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>those rotors will stop your car just fine.&nbsp;thats not the issue. they arnt going to wear down pads any quicker than a blank rotor. (let me guess, the slots are going to shave a microscopic layer of friction material off the pad each time a slot sweeps the pad?)&nbsp;&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>drilled rotors are more porone to cracking for a number of reasons. i know its a long read, but read the dam thread aidan linked in its entirety before you decide to do anything else or spend another dime on anything with brakes.</p>

 

I'm well aware that everyone says that they are more prone to cracking. I understand that they probably are more prone to cracking.

I also know that I just spoke with four or so guys at big companies who personally run drilled/slotted rotors on their cruising/back roads cars and have done so for many years. They have never had issues with them and have even claimed to experience performance gains from them.

I want to try them out to see how they feel on my car and everything before I totally just blow them off.

If/when I ever get serious into autox or track then I will definitely be upgrading my braking system and specifically to not drilled rotors... Until then, I am going to try these out and see how they work for me and my driving.

 

<p>drilled rotors should be outlawed</p>

 

Are props showing up for anyone else? They're no longer showing up on my screen and I'm hankerin' to do some proppin' in this thread.

 

Go checkout the forum updates thread. Props are gone right now with no explanation yet.

 

<p></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>https://www.miataturbo.net/front-des...s-84493/page2/</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>so youll have to just tell us who gets +'s and who gets -'s</p><p>&nbsp;</p>

 

Great writeup. Yes, some mistakes were made as pointed out, but really this is a good guide for nooooobs.... as long as they read the corrections, which they won't :P

Anyway, welcome. We'll beat the clubroadster out of you yet, I think.

 

Hah, thanks man. I'll be addressing everything as time goes on in order of importance and severity. It'll get there!

I'm stubborn but conformity is usually inevitable, so.

 

Don't forget the impact that your tyres have on stopping, rotors/pads/calipers are just part of the equation.

Drilled rotors can of worms...

 

Compression tests. Compression tests are good. Here are my numbers:
Cylinder 1: 175
Cylinder 2: 185
Cylinder 3: 175
Cylinder 4: 185

They aren't perfect, but they are within 5% of each other. Woo

 

Very nice. Now go flog it!

 

<p>those are some pretty good numbers. was this with the engine warmed up?</p>