Finally made the exhaust. Should have most things now for the engine dyno.

Downpipe with hole for divorced pipe.


Looking up downpipe.


Downpipe.




Complete exhaust. The hotdog muffler is near the end - it is very slim.

 

:d

 

I'm just curious why does everyone combine the pipe from the wastegate at a 90ish degree angle?

 

Mine's not quite 90*, but to answer your question probably because it's easier to fabricate.

 

I have been making some doors. THE TOTAL WEIGHT FOR THE DOOR SHELLS TOGETHER IS 3.8LBS...


There are 3 outer and 2 inner shells in the pic. I have the other outer and 2 inner shells still in the molds. I also have a bonnet in an nb mold and it will be ready to infuse tonight.



I still have to make 2 more inner door shells for my car, then a set of na doors. Been very busy........

I also made a trunk with a corecell frame- WEIGHS 2.8LBS....

 

Hood being layed up. Onto the peel ply layer.

 

I love your updates and is that a hood for your other cars 1999 since that wont fit on your wide body

 

The mold is from the widebody car. I cut the sides off to make it into a hood mold. But they are not for me, my other car is a 1991 so it won't fit. I will make an NA mold one day.

 

Here is a video of me infusing a hood.
There is another one as well of the 2nd part, i am sure you can find it if.

 

Hey thanks man for doing some DIY videos, I wish I had the ***** to do CF my self. Sorry to ask but how much as an est does each of the CF panels weigh

 

what do you have go along the sides to move the resin move so fast

 

It is a plastic open/void roll that allows a lot of spec for the resin to run. Without it the resin would slow down and stop before the part infused. You can use that spiral hose protecter stuff for hydraulic hoses, etc. The doors weigh 3.8lbs. Trunk is 2.8lbs. Hood will be about 6-7lbs.

 

Watching this really intrigues me into looking to do this... what on-line sources do did you refer to when getting into this? I'm sure you purchase you fiber and components in AU. I have clean panels, space, and vaccum pumps to try this - time on the other hand, is another question!

 

omg yellow pucky tape. I used to have about a zillion rolls of that stuff that was donated for my senior project.

lightyear: do you use the spongy breather/bleeder ply to suck up excess resin and help it even out?

 

http://www.fibreglast.com/ has everything you need to do CF, Kevlar or Fiber Glass. They also have books to help you along.

 

You don't need to soak up the resin. That is for vac bagging only. Not for vac infusion. The guy that supplies me with everything trained me to do the vac inf, so he can sell more materials and pumps, etc. Good for me, and good for him.

 

so you end up wasting less resin ($$) and the parts are slightly lighter weight?

 

Less resin not only means lighter part and less weight. It also means a stronger part. The resin is brittle by itself, so the more cloth to resin is better. Or cloth/resin ratio. Higher cloth than resin. The guy that supplies me with the resin, only had epoxy to give me, so the last 4 parts are epoxy, as opposed to vinyl ester. Took me 1hr 08 min to pull the infusion layers off the inner door shell. I started this morning and just stopped for lunch after stripping all the inf layers off all 4 parts. Got blisters on 2 fingers. Fckn hard work. That is the worst part of vac inf.

 

.......Ive really been missing out lol. Very hardcore indeed.

On that note, can you make me into carbon fiber?

 

You are what you eat, so start eating the c.f with some milk and cookies.....
Carbon fibre bones would be handy.