Mine is the block with the oil feed port. So should be identical to 94 block.

 

Ok thanks. I'll check when I see the motor next. My main priority was getting the car moving under it's own power with the existing engine and getting all my projects closed up at home. The motor is at a friends shop waiting assembly.

Now that I have the car running and (what I feel like) is a safe startup tune I can move on to other parts of the project.

 

Speaking of other parts of the project, I am thinking about and planning my e85 upgrade. At least the under-hood portion.

My plan thus far is to simply remove the fuel line from where the fuel rail connects to the pulsation dampers etc and put in an e85 sensor there. Obviously this all depends on packaging but that is the overall plan.

To switch between push-lock and -an connections I plan on using Russell 644123 quick connect to -6an male adapters. Russell 644123: SAE Quick-Connect EFI Adapter Fitting Threaded Cap Screw-On Style | JEGS

To add my fuel pressure sensor, I plan on using 6an male to female adapter with integrated fuel pressure port. Earl's AT100199: Ano-Tuff Pressure Gauge Adapter Fitting -6AN Male to -6AN Female | JEGS

Is there any reason to upgrade to 8an or 10an for fuel lines? Seems 6an should be prefectly fine correct?

I'll try and draw out my plan later, and maybe add some pics.

 

I feel like the only time you'll need -8 or -10 for fuel lines in a Miata is if you are Fae, or you have an LS swap.

My **** is all -6 and I've got more fuel than I'll ever know what to do with

 

Thanks. That's what I thought.

Also, I meant to ask. What can I remove (pulsation dampers etc) without causing my stock ECU to freak out when it comes emissions time?

 

No idea, but in4answer

 

I feel like Savington has been working on this himself. If I recall he is trying to maintain as much of the stock fuel system as possible on his "better mazdaspeed" build. For example, he is sticking with the returnless style fuel system rather than running a return line. My plan is to use a similar setup as Flyin' Miata does with it's "big fuel" system but move the e85 sensor under the hood so I have more real time measurement of what my engine is seeing.

 

Oh yeah, I've been following that closely as well. I'm in the process right now of putting stock things back on the car ...because reasons.

Point of order, Savs fuel system on the better MSM build is actually a return system with manifold reference and the longest vacuum line <clarkson> ...in the world. </clarkson> Codrus actually has essentially the same fuel system setup as well, and I'm rapidly moving in that direction. I think all of us are doing this same thing ...because reasons.

 

Hmm. That is new. I will have to read up on that. I plan on running a vacuum line to my FPR as well.

Wait, if he is running a return line why not put the regulator under the hood? That is, unless he is trying to be stealthy?

 

BECAUSE REASONS, OK?!



I mean, in reality I can only guess at other peoples motivations. I know why I'M doing it, but I can't speak for others.

 

∆∆∆∆
This

 

Did you know that the NB already has a return system from the factory?

 

Pardon?

The way I understand the term "return" system means that the fuel runs to the engine bay, from there the pressure is regulated and the excess pressure is routed back to the tank.

In a returnless system only one fuel line goes to the engine bay. There IS a return, but it's part of the tank assembly.

 

Yep! A very short return system with no manifold reference, but a return system none the less.



Sorry, I spent most of my morning slopping through a muddy *** lettuce field and now I'm drinking at my desk until I'm told to go home

 

So, planning my fuel system. I am going to start with the rear of the car and follow up on another post with the front end.

• EFI to -06AN screw type adapter fittings connect to top of fuel tank for both supply and return.
• -06AN braided line - from fuel tank to fuel pressure regulator.
• Fuellab 535 fuel pressure regulator
• -06AN male to braided line (braided fuel hose end), 90° - from regulator to supply from tank.
• -06AN male/male adapter for regulated return back to tank
• JEGS 35 micron in-line fuel filter, either:
  • -06AN male/female
  • -06AN male/ 90 degree female

** some sort of way of connecting discharge side of filter to stock fuel line. I haven't figured out exactly what parts I need yet.**

Would this work? It uses -06an but has an o-ring? Russell 644013: Specialty SAE Quick-Connect EFI Adapter Fittings 180-Degree | JEGS

 

Quick random but relavant thought...

I am running the FM1 clutch. Do I upgrade to the FM2 when the motor is out of the car or do I run the FM1 until it fails and then upgrade to something better than the FM2? My goal torque is in the low 300s. Next year when I upgrade to EFR I will certainly need more. What do you all recommend for clutch upgrade path?

 

I would wait until the FM1 is dead before replacing. Just to save money right now.

 

I would do it while the engine is out.

But I HATE, I can't stress enough how much I HATE doing clutch work.

 

Not much work on my car... It's still in storage.

I am however helping a local friend install his FMII with Hydra 2.7 EMS.

 

FMII was completed and is on the road. I need to ride in mine and his back to back but mine FEELS quite a bit faster, but then he is at 10psi on a 2560 and I am about 12-13psi on roughly a 2860...

Strange thing though, I just got my car out of storage and decided to do a little experimentation with my EBC duty so that maybe I could reduce overshoot.

I reduced my entire bias table to 34% and set my target boost to 170kpa...

I overshot like a ****.

So, I switched my entire bias table over to 0%. Overshot and hit boost limit.. I turned off the EBC entirely. Overshoot to 200kpa and hit boost limit.

I was switching settings at traffic lights on my way to work so I didn't have time to get out and look under the hood.

My suspects:

• Cracked or leaking boost signal hoses
• Faulty EBC
• Faulty wiring/setup
• Broken or otherwise defective wastegate actuator

Any other things to check?