Not sure. There are several issues with this car, and they all kinda compound each other.
Leaning out the mixture (which is what the shop/dyno tuner did for that plot) and adding timing resulted in very minimal gains. He has at least 1 major hardware issue

OP's car freaked out the other day and started running crazy lean, like 12.6-13AFR in boost. No changes were made to the tune it was running low 11's/high 10's AFR consistently for a long time now. Told him to stay out of boost until he sorts out the problems/issues. There's definitely a hardware failure somewhere, but I haven't heard back from him yet and don't know what it is. No way should his FF's be maxed out. Maybe the pump is dying?

I don't think there's a set power figure or boost figure for when you lose spark, but the ballpark? yeah that'd be somewhere around this boost level/power level if I had to guess

 

Small update.. lots of health issues have been slowing me down, but things are finally looking up.

the lean changes that were being seen were definitely a result of my gauge being misconfigured on the top end

I took the car to the track this weekend and immediatly broke something when I tried to launch off of first - most likely the transmission.

I am also still waiting for the ls coil plug wires, they weren't delivered with my coils due to backorder issues. plan is to install the vvt head with the ls coils and some id1000s once I can find a reasonable price and get rid of my ff640s. I'll probably need a 6 speed as well.

​​​​​

 

Glad to hear you are on the mend.

 

The only issue was the slave cylinder / clutch lines - I haven't had as much success as I'd like to with this and i'm okay with cutting my losses a little bit short with the car at this point. I've learned quite a bit and i think i would benefit more from parting out and starting over at a later date.

 

Sorry to hear. Engine $$ looks pretty reasonable.

 

Stop being silly and fix the damn cylinder and get that car back on the strip.

 

The only guy that successfully changed my mind.

Thanks. I've been told I'm too deep, I agree

 

Going against a doctors orders is BAD to ones health!

 

Sounds much better. Were you on meds from your health issues?

 

It's not even that you're too deep. It's just that you're so close. You need to stop chasing complete perfection and plan things out stepwise a bit so you can actually drive the car. Just working on it and not reaping any of the rewards of what you've done is a recipe for burnout. Look at ryansmoneypit thread. He's come so close to setting the car on fire multiple times over because it sat on jack stands for 2 years.

You could just swap to the VVT head and do VVT things over the winter. It should still flow better without the VVT enabled. If you get time then get that together, but don't let it push you back in driving the car for another few months. It's sept. You have maybe 1-2 months more of being able to enjoy the car on the road. Don't miss out on it!

Edit: Remind me again if you have a stage 1 or stage 2 BE pump? I know the stage 2 is for the VVT motor since the oil pump changed between the NB1 and NB2 (NB2 part number now supercedes NB1 part number via mazda). I just want to make sure this is something that isn't being overlooked. AFAIK, you had a stage 2.

He just needs to stop pulling his engine the second he thinks that something is wrong lmao.

 

Lol yeah the meds probably had alot to do with it, but I agree I will be doing nothing other than perfecting everything I can over the next two weeks, that's when I'd ideally like to have the car up and running again. I will mostly be waiting for parts this whole time as the plan is to still put on that VVT head, upgrade injectors and all the clutch hydraulics. I need to get it resurfaced for sure, I am also still missing quite a few parts.like that bottom banjo and washer for the vvt line.

I'm fairly certain I will be resolving the issues with the LS coils and swapping over to the VVT head, but there's still alot of questions and research I need to do, like is my boundary stage 1 pump gonna be okay... Do I need to shim/ swap?.

I am also planning on upgrading to the 99-05 TB and have ordered all the pigtails from TSE.

I NEED to figure this out first.

 

Well, I guess you're about even right now...

You now know you don't need a vvt controller since you have an MS3X, but you need to figure out if the VVT wiring is there. Otherwise you might need to send it back to Scott or convince bytevenom to do it for you.
You also know that you might need a stage 2 oil pump or need to shim your stage 1 a bit. I'd talk to Travis @ boundary for more info.

I was just reading a few threads about this namely:
https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...ew-pump-85019/
https://www.miataturbo.net/boundary-...ump-why-56016/

Looks like folks were running the vvt head with stage 1 pump, but if you have loose tolerances then it might be an issue due to flow volume and pressure, especially if you want to rev over stock. Not sure how much shimming would help.

Of note:

 

now taking ideas for the next problem. this line is bent! has anyone dealt with this VVT line being bent before? Ignore the cat hairs, i've been shaving the hairy little bastard.

 

Line has been replaced thanks to 96morbst, he was kind enough to lend it to me from his motor that sits in RTCs garage. Also got to take a little spin in RTCs Miata before it broke, EWG scares me - I can see how fun it is, it gave me some more motivation to get this up and going.

Parts....


Would've ordered most from TSE, but shipping costs and delays are excessive at the moment plus i like extra parts with money saved on shipping.. I hope business is going well for you.

Parts list so far.. of stuff bought / waiting.

Got alot from treasure coast like
VVT solenoid
Missing banjo(bottom VVT)
99+ throttle cable
waiting on fpr

and fuel rail from bytevenom

VVT pigtails from TSE
Flying Miata level 2 clutch
Probably going MTX-L now.
ID 1050s w/ pnp connectors from flow force
Stage 2 boundary pump 1 shim
New VVT copper washers from Mazda that I must pick up.
new gasket seals for everything on the head and block again, just in case.
price saved on shipping got me something like this

Mishimoto Water Temp Sensor Adapter to replace the emergency repair kit 😂
Bosch water temp gauge to match my boost gauge


Head is gonna a be resurfaced and most likely new seals / still deciding on ST double valves springs maybe.. I've already gone ***** to the wall.. i should know soon enough as I make more moves.

 

double post

 

Glad you had fun in the car! Least I could do for you having taken me out almost a year ago!

96morbst is a bit more aggressive of a driver than I am (lulz!) So I figured you'd have fun if he gave you a ride instead of me haha.

We've got a good gang in our neck of the woods, eh?

 

I hate the MTX-L. Why not the newest UEGO?

 

Def got a good gang around here, next rides on me when i get this up and running

Uhh not sure if im thinking stuff through clearly here. Maybe i just need more help.

I have the newest UEGO i believe (30-4110) 4.9 sensor, And its been working fine but i know towards the top end currently its not setup right.

Before it was way too RICH up top ( That's why they leaned it out when i last took it to the dyno. ) However they clearly failed to re-configure the wideband.

Now it reads way too lean up top (13.8?) That's when you warned me to stay out of boost.

Pretty much i suck at configuring this thing, and no one has been able to get it dialed in - so i wanted to try configuring something else

 

Are you sure that your AEM was calibrated properly in MS? Remember the process we went through on the phone like a month ago?

 

If RTC was involved the one thing you can be sure of is that it was calibrated incorrectly