Colipto's BP to K swap build thread
#541
I should've thought of this before hand LOL
I've read that hence why i went with them - when i was on street tires the wheel hop was terrible.. my best first pass had quite a bit of wheel hop, after that i didnt risk it anymore.
Looking for an adjustable FPR at this time now aswell since it seems i am running out of fuel very soon, won't be able to pass the 350 range without it.
I've read that hence why i went with them - when i was on street tires the wheel hop was terrible.. my best first pass had quite a bit of wheel hop, after that i didnt risk it anymore.
Looking for an adjustable FPR at this time now aswell since it seems i am running out of fuel very soon, won't be able to pass the 350 range without it.
#545
I was seeing 90% duty cycle at 19psi tapering down to 16psi ( Pretty sure i got boost control figured out now after this log, needs more pid )
The other day i was running at 22psi tapering down a bit and saw 84%
Pretty sure I need some extra headroom because from what I've been seeing/reading I'm right at the limits of my injectors otherwise
#548
I'm going to try running higher boost pressures - but how does that explain my high duty cycle logs?
I'm trying to get up to 25psi boost - have only been able to get to 22-20 or lower 19-16 on colder days, still working out boost control settings and fueling
NBs are at 60, but they are non-manifold referenced and the regulator is in the tank instead of being up at the fuel rail. You lose a few psi in the lines going up to the front, so if you're running 20-ish psi of boost you may only have an effective 35 psi across the injectors.
--Ian
--Ian
#549
As Vlad says, you're probably out of fuel pump flow.
Go find some cells where you're currently running say 80% DC, manually turn it up to 90%, then log it and see if the AFR changes. If it doesn't, then you need more pump flow.
Maybe your AEM is weak, or maybe the filter is clogged, or maybe there's a restriction somewhere else in the fuel line. Or maybe it can't get enough electrons and needs rewiring.
--Ian
Go find some cells where you're currently running say 80% DC, manually turn it up to 90%, then log it and see if the AFR changes. If it doesn't, then you need more pump flow.
Maybe your AEM is weak, or maybe the filter is clogged, or maybe there's a restriction somewhere else in the fuel line. Or maybe it can't get enough electrons and needs rewiring.
--Ian
#560
I think you're wrong about the leak on #1 - Not sure why that area of the head is darker than the others - I'm actually leaking at my valve cover rear end on both sides after taking a closer look, I took a few pics so maybe you can get a better look / idea - ALSO IGNORE THAT BLACK THING ON THE STUD UNDER #1, Some piece of plastic decided it was going to chill there and i havn't found a need to clean it up (its not rusting tho)
#1 pic
rear valve pic
Stage 8 3902 Turbo Locking Bolt Kit with 8mm-1.25 x 25mm 6 Point Bolts
The only problem with the kit above is that the bolts may be a little too short, might have to find a kit a little bigger around 30-35mm and cut the bolt to size or something.Its pretty much like storing it underwater... SALT water.
You're right - I did have an exhaust leak at my down-pipe, what a crazy difference that made in under-hood temps, and probably my AFRs, replaced the studs with generic autozone 10.9 hardware - Part#23735, anti-seized with love, hoping it will hold since i don't have anymore res-bond.
to Square top or not to square top.. that is the question now. Hoping to attempt to track again tomorrow!