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Join the squaretop club! Prices are good right now and then we can both commiserate over having to drill out fucked egr bolts and snapping intake manifold studs. fml
Well went the strip, Looks like i need a few things...
Snell HELMET, Fire Jacket, Better Slicks so i don't wobble left and right and almost kill my self 3 passes in a row - Couldn't not pass 50mph I was sticking sure but as soon as i approached near 60 i had to brake hard or force going into a wall. I literately got told " You're done for the night " Had to throw on my street tires in order to keep going was straight spinning all the gears the rest of the night. Didn't get many passes, best i could do was 13.6, cold wet night
Not sure what's going on with the rear end wobble with the slicks i have - Too low of a tire pressure? I tried around ranges from 7-12psi on my passes, couldn't do anymore on them before they pulled me off, can't blame them.. i was all over the track, impossible to full throttle
edit:
Drag Slicks tire pressure
Run as much air pressure as possible in a drag radial, which is normally in the 18- to 22-psi range, much higher than its bias-ply slick counterpart at 12 psi.Mar 16, 2015
Still enjoying the car, it gets driven now more than ever since i started working and its my only car.
Mainly just alot of maintenance Since I've swapped back over to 93 from e85 , I've had to clean my catchcans from what looks to be a oil/coolant mix but was really just oil /water from moisture getting in somewhere.
I've replaced the turbo studs with the locking kit on the other page i provided (Stage 8 3902 ) Only had to cut them to size and they fit fine - I will never go with any other locking / turbo kit again - only stage 8 hardware. I kept one iconel stud on the bottom right of the manifold because its a tight spot and the nut isn't going to back out of there anyways. ( also helps me seat things easier )
The iconel stud on the top left of my manifold snapped off and i spent a hell of a time removing it, After i spent a **** ton of time drilling the iconel stud out (had to go buy a cobalt drill bit set ) i ran into another fu moment. I snapped the tap inside very deeply. Tried a broken tap remover kit with no avail. (walton kit)
In the end i went with a punch / chisel set and chipped away at it slowly, retapped very slowly and added the new hardware
(pic is right after i finished drilling)
lowered boost to 15psi since I noticed i was having some spark blowout at 20, car is still very fast, I wish i could catch a good datalog but I can't stick for **** on these summer tires.
Lifted the car up about half an inch - Long overdue with this winter and also my tires were rubbing.
Now my car won't get up to temp, max 160 in this cold area. ( 30f, going down to 0f again soon), I've ordered a new tstat in-case that's an issue. After researching on the forums I really think my coolant reroute / alum radiator is keeping stuff stupidly too cool, previous datalogs show everything was working as it should but I'm still going to take apart my tstat once it gets in.
it needs to get warm ASAP. Or better yet, I need a daily again... More salt roads for me till then, this shell is a rust bucket anyways.
I don't live in a cold enough part of the country to have experience with a turbo Miata not getting up to temp. Does it do this even when just idling? Have you tried the cheap/quick test of blocking off part/all of the radiator with cardboard to see if your engine gets hotter? Good Luck with this odd situation!
I don't live in a cold enough part of the country to have experience with a turbo Miata not getting up to temp. Does it do this even when just idling? Have you tried the cheap/quick test of blocking off part/all of the radiator with cardboard to see if your engine gets hotter? Good Luck with this odd situation!
My logs are showing me my CLT rising everytime i stop and just idle So i suspect my thermostat is fine (I think i've replaced it twice at this point, the first time a blue rag got stuck in there and i discovered it in this thread.)
I plan on doing the cardboard trick tomorrow morning aswell as checking my radiator with the cap off and observing the movement
Squaretop and innovative 60a mounts added... Huge difference.. planning on wrapping my car next - anyone have suggestions for color? I fucked black up and kind of want to avoid it.
I was thinking a black reflective color.. then I'll be fixing up the interior.. got a few logs with the squaretop on and I believe I'm near 300hp, 18psi read around 284 in virtual Dyno.
Pfa
Planning on pushing it to 20 psi then back to e85 for the summer at 20-30psi till fuel limit..
Well that's probably the best suggestion... not going to lie.
I will skip those plans for now and focus on getting my e85 flex fuel working now that the sensor has been in for a while.. Mobil 1 93 reads 7.5-8.2 ethanol percentage.
My next fill up I would love to fill with a tank of e85 and just drive away. First i need to figure out how to set everything up again as last time i only setup a straight e85 table and not fuel table switching / duel fuel.. i literally have no idea how this works so need to figure out how to set it up first, i remember seeing a set list of instructions somewhere...
Yeah, now might be a good time to start looking for a shell down south. Rent a truck/trailer or rope someone into going with you and bring it back. I have a set of wheels and nb1 suspension you can buy/borrow if you need them to make sure it gets back in a piece.
I modified a 5 speed short shifter kit to fit my 6 speed... I used a angled grinder on this part which only had one notch. I was also missing at least 3 bushings, two of them being the moon on the original 6 speed shifter. The other goes on the bottom ball and I'll probably replace that with a 5x racing bronze version for that.. I don't understand how it was all gone, still feels very tight now with the shortshifter even without this bushing
I also just realized today that I'm right next to a e85 station at work, if my laptop wasn't dead I would've made the swap, but now I need to empty this half tank of 93.. oh well I should be able to do it this week weather permitting. I also upgraded my boost gauge to a glowshift 30psi from a 20psi bosch, this has been the most limiting factor to me not going over 20psi... oh and fuel worries...
cut solid bushing
also this is the original bushing that came with the kit.. it did not fit correctly at all, also had to modify that
got my tank scary low, it was actually under e but my tank still only took about 10.1 gallons of E85. I'm really surprised everything was so smooth on startup besides a high idle flex fuel settings were pulling timing to 0, after chaning the timing ranges to 0 from like -13 it started actually hauling ***, Just need to add timing and autotune at this point i believe...
I'm primarily going to be running e85 now that i have a station so close - I really need to dial in flex fuel settings to pull timing accordingly when I'm on 93, but for now its like i have them disabled with the current settings i believe, no dual map yet but that's something I will be working on.
I want to get back to the 20psi level I was at, evaluate duty cycle then push as far to 30 psi as i can.
this is what my sensor currently reads the tank as, really wondering if its going to go higher next fill up
With almost 270k miles on the car I'm sure the fuel levels are not as accurate as it should be.
My 1990 takes ~9gal on the empty line. I usually wait until it is pointintnat the top left corner of the E itself and that put ins 10-10.5. My friends 91 is similar. His girlfriends 94 is empty at the line.
Well that's good to know that I'm not the only one with an inconsistent fuel gauge...
I filled up again with e85 and it looks like the "Winter blend" is being used right now in my area which is a 70/30 mix, I topped my tank off again and got it to read up to 66%.
I turned up the boost /timing to the 20 psi level again and am seeing duty cycle levels around 65% which is awesome... . can't wait to see what kind of power i can make at 25-30 psi
I cannot for the life of me figure out closed loop boost control.. I keep switching to open loop just for the simplicity.. I keep hitting over-boost terribly hard which is very discouraging, guess there's always the option of disabling it.
Hopefully i can post some virtual dynos of that tomorrow and figure out closed loop again.. pretty sure i had it sorted at one point...
edit: also, looking at drag / street radials that i can daily with... the slicks aren't going to cut it with the car being a daily
Why not just run two sets of wheels? Your tire costs are going to add up wicked quick if you do that!
This. Its sooo much cheaper in the long run to have a set of wide wheels for super sticky tires, and a set of narrow stockers with some 400tw+ tires on them that do fine in all weather and wear like iron even with extreme amounts of camber.
i technically have two sets of tires right now.. the RS4's and the 13 inch slicks that i picked up.. I just wanted to shy away from the slicks after my last experience with them ( I was all over the road probably because of lower tire pressure ) I could not gun it in the 1/4 mile without almost crashing into the wall.
Probably going to revisit the slicks this week with higher tire pressure. next street night is this wednesday, Going to have to remove my passenger seat to make room for the tires and wrenching gear, Virtual dyno showed me at around 377/312 5th gear pull around 18-19 psi, could not get traction any other gears below that.
Scared of my FM1 slipping, but still going to send it.
So.. went to the track after adding a makeshift driveshaft loop
Ran a 12.9 while launching soft, stuck pretty well for once
Carnage ensued shortly after launching hard on slicks... my first pass I lost a PPF bolt and pretty sure driveshaft is now rubbing on something at high load... Just glad i was able to drive it home safely.
I've learned a lot on these forums, Just want to thank everyone who has helped me along the way, I'll still be around just a bit less active as i find future plans.
Lookout for my part out thread, everything is still good, just cant be arsed to fix this rust bucket rear end anymore - that has been the biggest issue
TLDR: When building a high performance car, don't skimp out on a shell.
10-04-2018, 11:08 PM
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