Curly's boring mt.net circle of life completion (Turbo->N/A conversion)
01-22-2014, 01:02 AM
#222
Cpt. Slow
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,202
Total Cats: 1,138
After further inspection it appears that just one corner is bent a little. Unsure how to fix it. I did have some oem sr20 studs drilled out a while back. I wonder if it was bent in the mill? I can't think of when else it would of happened.
Reply
0
0
01-31-2014, 09:03 AM
#224
Cpt. Slow
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,202
Total Cats: 1,138
Ug, photobucket isn't working.
But to sum up, the clutch is installed. To fix the exhaust leak, I had both flanges belt sanded. Art at Clackamas Auto Parts was nice and did in while I stood there for free. #1 is still leaking. I'm sure if I tightened it differently it would rock over at #4 would leak. I think I'm just going to rock 20 exhaust gaskets and call it good. Maybe use some JB weld.
But after we buttoned everything up, it was I timed it and it was running like ****. Flooring it would slowly bring it up to 3000rpms. Slowly as in, around 5 seconds to go from idle to 3k. If I timed it so the timing mark was straight up and down instead of at the 10* mark, it ran much better. After a lot of head scratching, we realized my timing mark had slipped on my '93 long nose pulley. Ended up finding TDC with a socket extension and dial indicator, and put a new TDC mark on the pulley. Retimed, rechecked to make sure it hadn't moved during timing, and went for a test drive.
Where it immediately started bucking. Clutch feels great, although it's engaging right off the floor. Need to adjust that.
Turns out somehow my overboost protection was set to 1.5psi. I was hitting that even with the wastegate wired open, fairly easily by ~3k.
Fixed that, filled up with premium, and it was breaking up like crazy. Sounded like a subaru/2 cylinder, I messed with a lot of things from fueling to spark to accel enrichment settings. My TPS has never worked properly, I disabled that. Finally I fixed it by upping the dwell to 5ms for my Toyota COPs and raped the **** out of the car in the back roads.
Now I know this is going to kill my coils, so I'm during it make down to the 3-3.5 range, and checking my gap. I also had GM Weather Pack connectors in the COP harness, so at the end of the night I cut those out and soldered everything together, I'm much happier with this setup. After some tuning and like I said checking the plug gap, I'll go out for some more tuning.
I'm also struggling with my entire tune. Seems like if I do anything it keeps wanted to save under "CurrentTune", and throws me off. Its annoying. So I'm pretty sure I lost my dyno tuned tune.
But luckily I've got a screen shot in the "my dyno woes" thread, so I should be fine. I think I'm going to start over with DIY's base map, change req_fuel, add my spark map, and go autotune the fuel map and call it good. So annoying.
That's all for now, pictures later.
But to sum up, the clutch is installed. To fix the exhaust leak, I had both flanges belt sanded. Art at Clackamas Auto Parts was nice and did in while I stood there for free. #1 is still leaking. I'm sure if I tightened it differently it would rock over at #4 would leak. I think I'm just going to rock 20 exhaust gaskets and call it good. Maybe use some JB weld.
But after we buttoned everything up, it was I timed it and it was running like ****. Flooring it would slowly bring it up to 3000rpms. Slowly as in, around 5 seconds to go from idle to 3k. If I timed it so the timing mark was straight up and down instead of at the 10* mark, it ran much better. After a lot of head scratching, we realized my timing mark had slipped on my '93 long nose pulley. Ended up finding TDC with a socket extension and dial indicator, and put a new TDC mark on the pulley. Retimed, rechecked to make sure it hadn't moved during timing, and went for a test drive.
Where it immediately started bucking. Clutch feels great, although it's engaging right off the floor. Need to adjust that.
Turns out somehow my overboost protection was set to 1.5psi. I was hitting that even with the wastegate wired open, fairly easily by ~3k.
Fixed that, filled up with premium, and it was breaking up like crazy. Sounded like a subaru/2 cylinder, I messed with a lot of things from fueling to spark to accel enrichment settings. My TPS has never worked properly, I disabled that. Finally I fixed it by upping the dwell to 5ms for my Toyota COPs and raped the **** out of the car in the back roads.
Now I know this is going to kill my coils, so I'm during it make down to the 3-3.5 range, and checking my gap. I also had GM Weather Pack connectors in the COP harness, so at the end of the night I cut those out and soldered everything together, I'm much happier with this setup. After some tuning and like I said checking the plug gap, I'll go out for some more tuning.
I'm also struggling with my entire tune. Seems like if I do anything it keeps wanted to save under "CurrentTune", and throws me off. Its annoying. So I'm pretty sure I lost my dyno tuned tune.
But luckily I've got a screen shot in the "my dyno woes" thread, so I should be fine. I think I'm going to start over with DIY's base map, change req_fuel, add my spark map, and go autotune the fuel map and call it good. So annoying.
That's all for now, pictures later.
Reply
1
1
02-03-2014, 10:21 AM
#225
Man that sucks *** and is very depressing. I figured you were one of the tuning guru's on this forum. Good luck getting it all sorted. I think your on the right path by starting a new tune and slowly building it back up. I have found many times this helps diagnose where I been chasing my tail. I got a really nice mediocre spark map if you want something better than the base to play with. You also may want to make sure your dwell correction is correct(not sure if MS1 has the curve).
Reply
0
0
02-03-2014, 11:53 AM
#226
Cpt. Slow
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,202
Total Cats: 1,138
MS1 does not have the dwell curve. But after cutting out the weather pack plugs and soldering everything together, the car runs flawlessly at 3.5 running dwell. That's higher than the 2.5-3 I've seen recommended, I'll turn it down soon. It was very encouraging though, car feels great.
Its starting easily thanks to the autotune warm up enrichment.
The VE tables also seems fairly well dialed thanks to a new bout of autotuning, although I'm a little rich in the cruise cells. 14s when I'd prefer mid to high 15s for decent gas mileage. AFRs in general seem much more steady after fixing the COP harness, I think I've been dealing with a problem there for longer than I realize.
After I finish fine tuning the above, I plan on turning on accel enrichments again to dial in throttle tip in smoothness, hooking up the wastegate once I hit around 200 miles on the clutch, and then I'm hoping to get back to a dyno soon.
The pulley is the real bummer. I'd love 949's, but can't justify the $322. If anything I'll spring for a $128 new OEM pulley. For now I'll keep the slipped 'n fixed pulley I have now, checking occasionally that it hasn't slipped again. Although if I don't touch timing, it won't matter until it separates and flys off the car.
Its starting easily thanks to the autotune warm up enrichment.
The VE tables also seems fairly well dialed thanks to a new bout of autotuning, although I'm a little rich in the cruise cells. 14s when I'd prefer mid to high 15s for decent gas mileage. AFRs in general seem much more steady after fixing the COP harness, I think I've been dealing with a problem there for longer than I realize.
After I finish fine tuning the above, I plan on turning on accel enrichments again to dial in throttle tip in smoothness, hooking up the wastegate once I hit around 200 miles on the clutch, and then I'm hoping to get back to a dyno soon.
The pulley is the real bummer. I'd love 949's, but can't justify the $322. If anything I'll spring for a $128 new OEM pulley. For now I'll keep the slipped 'n fixed pulley I have now, checking occasionally that it hasn't slipped again. Although if I don't touch timing, it won't matter until it separates and flys off the car.
Reply
0
0
02-03-2014, 11:59 AM
#227
Cpt. Slow
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,202
Total Cats: 1,138
So I've dial in more of the problem with TS.
Every time I open TS, it's loading "CurrentTune", whether or not I was using it last.
To combat this, I've been using CurrentTune as my most up to date tune. The problem comes when I try to do something like compare my settings to DIY's basemap to see if any of the changes I've made are WAY off base, and may be screwing some aspect of my tune up.
If I don't remember to reload CurrentTune before closing, it automatically saves the conservative base map as CurrentTune, and when I reopen, I've got the base spark map, and a poor fuel map, and I need to start all over again.
Is there some way to disable this autosave/currenttune feature?
Every time I open TS, it's loading "CurrentTune", whether or not I was using it last.
To combat this, I've been using CurrentTune as my most up to date tune. The problem comes when I try to do something like compare my settings to DIY's basemap to see if any of the changes I've made are WAY off base, and may be screwing some aspect of my tune up.
If I don't remember to reload CurrentTune before closing, it automatically saves the conservative base map as CurrentTune, and when I reopen, I've got the base spark map, and a poor fuel map, and I need to start all over again.
Is there some way to disable this autosave/currenttune feature?
Reply
0
0
02-03-2014, 12:17 PM
#228
Retired Mech Design Engr
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Seneca, SC
Posts: 5,009
Total Cats: 857
Not sure. However:
Whenever I want to open an old tune, I first do a SAVE AS. Then, when I want to go back to my most recent tune, I open the SAVED AS, and then save it (as CURRENT TUNE). A pain, but a safe method.
Whenever I want to open an old tune, I first do a SAVE AS. Then, when I want to go back to my most recent tune, I open the SAVED AS, and then save it (as CURRENT TUNE). A pain, but a safe method.
Reply
0
0
02-03-2014, 12:21 PM
#229
So I've dial in more of the problem with TS.
Every time I open TS, it's loading "CurrentTune", whether or not I was using it last.
To combat this, I've been using CurrentTune as my most up to date tune. The problem comes when I try to do something like compare my settings to DIY's basemap to see if any of the changes I've made are WAY off base, and may be screwing some aspect of my tune up.
If I don't remember to reload CurrentTune before closing, it automatically saves the conservative base map as CurrentTune, and when I reopen, I've got the base spark map, and a poor fuel map, and I need to start all over again.
Is there some way to disable this autosave/currenttune feature?
Every time I open TS, it's loading "CurrentTune", whether or not I was using it last.
To combat this, I've been using CurrentTune as my most up to date tune. The problem comes when I try to do something like compare my settings to DIY's basemap to see if any of the changes I've made are WAY off base, and may be screwing some aspect of my tune up.
If I don't remember to reload CurrentTune before closing, it automatically saves the conservative base map as CurrentTune, and when I reopen, I've got the base spark map, and a poor fuel map, and I need to start all over again.
Is there some way to disable this autosave/currenttune feature?
Reply
0
0
02-03-2014, 12:27 PM
#230
Cpt. Slow
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,202
Total Cats: 1,138
Yeah, that's what I need to start doing, I just didn't realize how dangerous "CurrentTune" was. This is the second time it's burned me. No pun intended.
Reply
0
0
02-09-2014, 09:10 PM
#232
That sucks about the manifold problems. Is it both the cyl head side and the turbo side? What does a straight edge look like before the last install? Are you running a gasket on the turbo side? I have heard of people using a thin layer of Permatex Ultra Copper. Apprently at the high temps it carbons up creating a seal. On the head side would it be worth trying to split the manifold? I've seen pics of this and the idea makes sense.
Reply
0
0
05-21-2017, 06:24 PM
#233
Cpt. Slow
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,202
Total Cats: 1,138
Boo!
Wow this thread and car are a pile of garbage.
Since I last posted, I've installed...
6-speed, MR tall straight SSK, stock 1.8 flywheel with ACT clutch, ditched the 1.6t for a 99 motor with BP5A cam, DIY aluminum intake, MSM valve cover, ebay header, Rev's MS3, NB front subframe plus related PS components, and most importantly a Stoptech BBK is in the mail. Can't seem to find a lot of decent pictures of the ST kit, so I'll try to get some here for y'alls enjoyment.
For now, since most posts are useless without pics, here's a shot of the newest piece, a used NA PS reservoir, required to clear the headlight motor on NAs. Fits amazingly, almost like it was meant to be there...
Wow this thread and car are a pile of garbage.
Since I last posted, I've installed...
6-speed, MR tall straight SSK, stock 1.8 flywheel with ACT clutch, ditched the 1.6t for a 99 motor with BP5A cam, DIY aluminum intake, MSM valve cover, ebay header, Rev's MS3, NB front subframe plus related PS components, and most importantly a Stoptech BBK is in the mail. Can't seem to find a lot of decent pictures of the ST kit, so I'll try to get some here for y'alls enjoyment.
For now, since most posts are useless without pics, here's a shot of the newest piece, a used NA PS reservoir, required to clear the headlight motor on NAs. Fits amazingly, almost like it was meant to be there...
Reply
0
0
