deezums

iTrader: (3)

Exhaust is 95% done, just need to finish the tailpipe and weld it all up. Probably paint it black, too...

This was not fun, first custom exhaust I've made. I'm sure I'll get a chance to rework and make it prettier when I upgrade the rear diff.





I somehow fit that rear brace, too. No idea how I pulled that off

deezums

iTrader: (3)

I has turbo

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Back on the ground, and back on the road! Slowly working my way into the boost. Sounds so mean, nothing but turbo spool and BOV.







Amazing 5 miniute heatshield, and new turbo oil line that isn't a foot too long.

Padlock

you made progress pretty fast

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, I'm a bit of a junkie. Can't stand not having a miata to drive!

Pushed up to 150kpa so far, soo much fun!

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Ah, well, dang...

My megasquirt reads about 5-10 degrees hotter than the coolant actually is, but this is still odd.

There was a thread like this a few days ago, going to try and find it.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Despite all better judgement, I installed a turbo to manifold gasket. Half of it was removed rather quickly, and I just removed the turbo to get to the rest of it. Seals just fine with nothing there, no leaks. I love how easy it is to pull the turbo with this setup. If it wasn't hot, I could have done it in 30 minutes.

Around 300 miles on the turbo stuff already, or two tanks of gas. I don't know how, but besides that gasket everything is flawless. Must be too much research or something

The relocated MAT sensor is not helping my lean restarts either, and it does not heatsoak. It must be the injectors getting hot or something. Revving the motor, pulling cool fuel through the injectors, seems to level it out quicker. I'm about to give up on that one, I don't think it can be solved...

Still dealing with the rising CLT, think it's all virtual. It drops quick, but I've done a few blasts followed by some IR temp checking, doesn't seem to actually be getting hot as far as I can tell. Wondering if it's not interference from the coil wiring, guess I'll find out shortly when I switch them out.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

FTFY. It's a inlet temp variation. Like you said, it levels out once you get it revved up to get some flow volume through the system. It also helped to do the IAT code mod in your msq, but I don't remember much about it because it has been about 4 years since I changed it.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Sixshooter, his original post was right. Many of us have done thorough testing on this, and its not always the AIT that heatsoaks, its the injectors.
Ev6's have a nasty habbit of doing this, maybe even EV1's too (but I don't mess with that ancient junk so I wouldn't know).
While both can lead to the same symptoms, it is not the same issue. I've tested this even on MS3.

EV14's do not have this problem.

*edit: there have been many discussions about this, here's one of the handful: https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...estarts-79819/

deezums

iTrader: (3)

I've tried finding that "iat code mod" you mentioned but can't find much of anything. I can't find half the tables I hear mentioned in searches, I only have MAT air density table and MAT/CLT correction. I've halved the "ideal gas law" corrections before I started tuning, but only below 60-70 degrees. Only pulling half as much as ideal, in other words.

I was assuming my charge pipes would purge the hot air pretty dang quick, especially since my IAC values seemed to get all skewed after replumbing everything. It'll rev high, then fall back down to my idle RPM way quick, still lean. Figure it's just breathing better, and I need to rescale some values.

Maybe I'll finally mess with the MAT/CLT table, since it's still zeroed out. I'm not too worried, since I know the problem is there and drive around it for a minute. I'm still using EGO down at idle, and I can apparently idle 16+ at 800-1k with little hiccups.

Edit: I take too long to post lol

deezums

iTrader: (3)

My clutch, it is amazing!

I have no idea how, but it does not slip. I tweaked the wastegate a bit more, now I run more like 175kpa/10psi

I just got home from the highway, many 4th and 5th gear runs and no give. I must have something non-oem. I'm pretty sure the engine's been out of my miata at one point, maybe I got extremely lucky?

I've been driving everywhere, everyday. Besides a gummed up PCV valve, I've been golden.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

My PCV fix, I was trying to come up with some crazy DIY check valve but I found a better solution at autozone. 100% PnP

My stock miata PCV will not 100% seal under boost, pretty evident, blow in the valve and it still passes some air, less air, but still lots more than none. I found a OEM replacement at the auto parts store, but it had the exact same problem and was brand new. Probably obvious to most, but it's not really built to take boost. The 323 and other valves, I couldn't find them locally.

So, I found this. Instead of the light cream color, it's grey and black. It seals out 100%, and doesn't really take much pressure to make it do so. It was $3.25 after taxes, I like cheap. My dipstick no longer pops, not that it really ever completely came out. I'm happy for now, hopefully the valve holds up.




Stock miata valve, and replacement part #

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Most of us just use the PCV valve from a 323GTX because it was designed for a turbo car.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

As I said, I couldn't find one locally. I'm not spending $20+ on a PCV valve, neither...

Both (mine and the 323GTX) are plastic case, metal spring and plunger. I will for sure update the thread if it melts or fails me quickly, but I don't see it happening.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Going for a $50 reroute as soon as she cools off a bit.



Plan is to swap housings, run heater line around the intake and to stock tube with 5/8 barb coupler. Tap and plug old ECU temp sensor, then drill and tap new GM CLT sensor in rear (now front) cover, both 3/8NPT. Drill some biggish holes in the thermostat, extend wiring with GM pigtail, some crappy hose clamps, and no more ridiculous temp gradient.

My coils let me measure the front and rear cover housing pretty easy, I measure 185-195 front/205-215 rear all the time with a IR thermometer. Hope this fixes that.

Might be able to squeeze the GM CLT in the retapped CLT bung, but I'll probably be all up in the timing cover. Figure I can tap the rear cover easy either way. Hoping going spacerless makes the entire experience less of a beach. We'll see...

Lanceam24

curious to see how this turns out, I have all the parts but the begi spacer (bought the moss uncut spacer but don't have the means modify it)...

deezums

iTrader: (3)

This is what it looks like, just need to rework my injector harness back down into the intake manifold and fill it up.



I just lopped half the stock CLT off, because it was faster than tapping it for a plug. Plenty of room for GM CLT on the rear plate, it sits about flush inside the housing in this pic. If I wanted, I could go back to stock by buying a new CLT sensor and plugging the 3/8 NPT hole I made.



All thanks to gospeed81 for posting pics here, just my take on someone else's work.

https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...e3/#post485321

Edit: Well, you could call it a success, but I apparently drilled too many holes in my thermostat. I figured I'd start with two 3/16" holes, which is apparently too much. Will idle around 180 now, instead of 205+. Unfortunately, it looses heat quickly while moving. A good 5 mile straight drive had me down to 160, and I haven't even put my undertray back in yet. Climbs back to 170+ at a stop, so I'm guessing that's what did it. 180 degree thermostat.

Relocating the CLT sensor or the reroute seems to have stopped my CLT rising with MAP/RPM, so not all bad. I kind of got to thinking it might be noise from my coil packs, since they sit like right on top of the old CLT.

I'm thinking of routing the cursed water plug over to the throttle body, I'll then cap that other plug on the head. This should get coolant rotating by the thermostat, without having to dump water past the thermostat causing things to cool too much. That plug sure is a bitch to get to, though, and I'll have hoses going everywhere.

Should have bought a spacer lol

Lanceam24

As simple as it seems, i don't see why more people do this reroute. Is it any more/less effective than the spacer route?

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Probably because it only works on a 1.6, requires some DIY modification, and looks butt-ugly.

The way I see it, I've just about 100% flipped the stock setup. If it works stock, it ought to work reversed. A spacer only keeps things prettier, which I don't care about.

If anything, I've got better cooling to the front cylinder than a spacer/front plug could ever hope to have.

Lanceam24

Yea well we don't own garage queens that only come out for "meets" and shows and crap. I don't plan on popping my hood to show people my little miata engine, not that they would care anyway. Function over form all day