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Old 07-01-2015, 11:39 AM   #201
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Default Deezums cheap 1.6 tries to go fast

Carbon build up causes hot spots which can promote detonation. Oil vapor in the combustion chamber increases the propensity to detonate because it has a lower octane rating than gasoline.

I don't see obvious signs of detonation.
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Old 07-01-2015, 02:32 PM   #202
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I got the majority of the carbon off with degreaser, gasoline, or a copper chore-boy pad.

Now I'm wondering where my marks on the fuel lines went. The one nearest the front bumper is the return, and the one nearest the firewall is feed, right?
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Old 07-01-2015, 02:35 PM   #203
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http://forum.miata.net/vb/archive/index.php/t-174500.html
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Old 07-01-2015, 09:48 PM   #204
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On my bubble burping hill, need the hood then I'm done, or so I think...
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Old 07-01-2015, 09:50 PM   #205
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Sorry for dumb question, I'm curious. On the 1.6, do you have to retorque the head gasket at any point when changing it? Or is it just torque to spec and you're done? I've drove a 1.6 but never owned one. People hate on the 1.6, it rev'd and ran pretty damn good the one I drove, I liked it.
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Old 07-01-2015, 09:55 PM   #206
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Nope, just torque and you're done.
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Old 07-01-2015, 09:58 PM   #207
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I torqued it once, then rechecked it the next day after I did the cam caps for the hell of it, they didn't move at all.
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Old 07-14-2015, 10:21 PM   #208
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Started on the PCV setup...





Remove all the throttle body things. I lost the spring clip for the TPS sensor, so it goes out and my idle gets stuck. I have no idea where to find another.

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Old 07-14-2015, 10:24 PM   #209
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Nice touch with the o-ring retainer spikes in the groove. So oem, much japan.
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Old 07-14-2015, 11:46 PM   #210
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Hah, it's a gnat's fart under 1/8". Since I had to use a tiny 1/16 I figured I'd get fancy!

Since I have more of this 1" UHMW I'm gonna make some door jamb things, because reasons.

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Old 07-15-2015, 03:51 AM   #211
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So I had to change my plans a bit, but the blocks fit pretty damn good. Ended up being slightly larger than a 1/2" radius to fit snug, belt sanded a chamfer on the leading edges so they'd fit flat. My passengers side door closes a lot easier now which is super cool, haven't driven enough to notice a difference just yet.

They grind on the screws that hold the pocket to the door, so they make their own clearance at least. Couldn't make them any taller if I wanted to



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Old 07-15-2015, 11:55 AM   #212
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<p>
Quote:
Originally Posted by deezums View Post
Remove all the throttle body things. I lost the spring clip for the TPS sensor, so it goes out and my idle gets stuck. I have no idea where to find another.
</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I'm going to be installing an NB TPS soon and you can have whatever bit you need from my TPS. The sensor itself reads wonky so I will just be trashing it anyways.</p>
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Old 07-15-2015, 03:41 PM   #213
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Ah nice, thanks man. I just need the little metal "C" clip that holds the connector in place, nice and small heh.
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Old 07-15-2015, 04:17 PM   #214
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Don't know what piece that is. Try and find a picture. I'll get it pulled tonight.
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Old 07-15-2015, 04:25 PM   #215
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The little metal clip, it's C shaped. Mine is gone, looks a little different than this one though. Unless I'm mistaken you've gotta pull that clip off before you can unplug the TPS.
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Old 07-15-2015, 04:28 PM   #216
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Ohh that thingy. I bet you could make one with some wire or something. I'll see if I still have mine.
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Old 07-15-2015, 04:29 PM   #217
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Nvm I have a BMW tps different connector.
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Old 07-15-2015, 04:31 PM   #218
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I'll probably just cut the bitch off and wire in a new weatherpack connector or something. If I don't drive hard it doesn't unplug itself lol
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Old 07-15-2015, 04:32 PM   #219
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Zip ties.
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Old 07-15-2015, 04:42 PM   #220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post
...You'll need a little tube the diameter of the retainer with some holes cut in it so you can compress the spring and then pull the keepers out. Like this.
fwiw- bore-friendly PVC pipe works well
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