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Old 09-01-2015, 12:54 AM   #261
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Yeah, I used cheap self tappers.
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Old 09-01-2015, 01:33 AM   #262
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oh snap I was just thinking of picking up a pair of those for the thubawu.
this was from Hoe Depoe?
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Old 09-01-2015, 01:43 AM   #263
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See my new thread in Engine performance
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Old 09-01-2015, 02:13 AM   #264
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Yep, Home depot racing.
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Old 09-02-2015, 05:42 AM   #265
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Got a wild hair up my ***. Tank was empty, E85 is 3 blocks from my place and is $1.95.

Multiplied my fuel table by 30%, and added about 6 degrees everywhere except idle. Goddamn, she woke the **** up

I may or may not add a table switch in place of the old AC idle up, e85 is everywhere here so why bother.
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Old 09-02-2015, 01:04 PM   #266
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<p>Sounds fun!</p><p>I would do the same, but I want to schedule a dyno before I do that. Don't want to risk breaking things.</p><p>&nbsp;</p>
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Old 09-02-2015, 07:24 PM   #267
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Meh, I'm on wastegate till I get a feel for what actually is going on. I can buy a new 1.6 for the cost of a few hours on dyno. I don't think I'm paying to dyno anything anytime soon, maybe if I get a 1.8.

Wastegate used to spool 150kpa around 3800 rpm, now it comes to the same 8 pounds at 3400. It is so much more responsive off line, and idles so much smoother too.

How important is it to be above 2ms plusewidth at idle? Targeting 14.7 on 91 has me around 1.7ms, while targeting 14.4 on e85 puts me right at 2.0ms. I can't budge it, it's never been so smooth and consistent. It rolls in and out of closed loop seamlessly without changing any dashpots, initial tables, whatever.



It's not that I can't idle 14.7 on these GT500's, it's just that anything that sets the closed loop off will send it into a feedback loop that will settle, almost as if the injectors aren't linear.

I run EGO at idle, FWIW, that doesn't help oscillations.

<3 E85
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Old 09-02-2015, 08:08 PM   #268
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Also, this is what I'm running at the moment. E85 on left, 91 on right. Taking all advice.




Above 5800 is largely untuned still, both for 91 and e85. Street car life.
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Old 09-22-2015, 05:59 AM   #269
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Install negative camber mod at 4AM in shop parking lot.









So I try moving the miata on a jack by myself, then reconsider. I plot trying to drive into a parking spot on the same jack, then I decide I'm probably better off not doing that.

I dig through scrap pile and find the balljoint I removed long time ago.



******* horseshit.

On the other hand, my steering is a hell of a lot easier now.

I need to afford some new coilovers, pronto. I hate getting alignments, I'm not doing it twice.

Would you run this wheel? They are discontinued, and I guess I needed a reason to get 15x9's... I rolled with teh control arm on the wheel for two or three feet, I don't even think I made it two full revolutions. It only seems to be 2-3mm deep at most.
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Old 09-22-2015, 07:43 AM   #270
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You clearanced the wrong side of the wheel for brakes.
<br />Dial-ins are cheap with free shipping from Goodwin. And discount tire will price match.
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Old 09-22-2015, 08:46 AM   #271
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Hah, I'm kinda lucky I didn't have my new brakes. Well, maybe, I think the rotor would have hit instead of the control arm. Maybe it wouldn't have scratched it as bad, lol.

I honestly don't think this wheel is hurt too too bad, might have winter wheels that still fit 11.5"

I'm thinking of getting another $20 lower joint at the auto parts store this afternoon, then just running it till I can afford xidas or feals later this year, with OEM replacement lowers.

I don't trust this cheap **** no more, that joint wasn't all that old.
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Old 09-22-2015, 09:42 AM   #272
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Were you moving when that happened?
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Old 09-22-2015, 02:38 PM   #273
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Yeah, I was coming into a sharp left corner up to my shop garage door after getting on the brakes kinda hard. As soon as I let off the brakes on turn in the front end popped up a bit then it then ejected the joint.
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Old 10-09-2015, 10:45 PM   #274
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Reading through here I've leaned quite a bit. Thanks for the read man. Good luck with the rest of the build
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Old 10-10-2015, 12:55 AM   #275
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Thanks!
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Old 10-11-2015, 01:17 AM   #276
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TinyIOx v1.0 Board

I'll be getting one of these soon. It would help with your lack of inputs on MS2.

I'll keep you updated.
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Old 10-11-2015, 11:08 AM   #277
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Be careful with timing and E85. You can quickly go past MBT with no knock, or detonation showing on plugs, but end up with a blown HG and/or bent rod. Common practice in 4g engine land, is to keep timing low at the boost hit and ramp it up pretty hard to redline.

More boost, less timing will wake it up on e85 also.
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Old 10-12-2015, 08:27 PM   #278
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I'm kinda considering going to a dyno here soon to figure out exactly what I'm doing to my motor, but for the time being I don't think it's too aggro compared to a few other timing maps I've seen around here. I don't need more boost, I just need the same boost faster. E85 and timing seems to help, the same 7 pounds comes up around 5-800 rpm quicker off the wastegate alone. I only drive like an old man on the street, maybe old man at car show... I don't want to afford a driving record. Been there, done that.

Finally managed to get big brakes on too, with less than 1/8" clearance. Who needs wheel weights, screw those things.

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Old 10-12-2015, 08:29 PM   #279
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Were yours centered?
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Old 10-12-2015, 08:38 PM   #280
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I still don't know 100% but they don't grind during bedding and look pretty close. I need to get a set of feeler gauges still to measure 100%.

The scrap brackets I have here all measure around .418-.420 when they should be .413. If yours are similar, which they should be as they were made at the same time you want an offset nearly .440 with the washers which I don't really understand being possible.

I did have a problem with my drawbar being loose and tools pulling, why I have the scrap, but since I finish the offset step first and it's just a skim cut it wouldn't be likely to pull a loose drawbar.

The step requires some milling though, and I imagine that's why the offset is a few thou too deep, the tool pulls from the r8 collet a bit, seems to be the best explanation for the machining error. It's not possible for the tool to push past the gauge line, it can only pull out and machine too deep. It wouldn't do that on the offset step for the reason above.

Measuring your brackets would be a good first step to knowing exactly what's going on.
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