deezums

iTrader: (3)

The guy who decked my head recommended a drill press, I think that's freaking genius. I've got one with a tilting table and locking quill, god forbid I ever have to touch those bastards again that'll be how I do it.

More PCV catch can stuff. These compressor filters use air pressure to seal which is no bueno for a catch can that sees vacuum. I don't want to have to take things apart to drain such a small can, so I modified it a bit.



The twist **** is a cam that pushes the drain plunger up, now it presses against a spring so I can still use this as a drain petcock.



Very simple bracket, I like simple.



I think I'll put it here, I can run the lines through the intake manifold so they aren't so out in the open and ugly. I need more fuel rated hose, and a check valve still.

Also I love the hell out of those door block things I made, it seems and sounds like a whole new car. I can hear the tires clapping cracks in the road, I never would have guessed they could make such a difference.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Catch can is done, though I'm waiting for an inline check valve in the mail still.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Catch can doing catch can things, this is ~150 miles or so of mixed street driving.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

I did some things today, replaced the oil return line that I was never really happy with and finally added some ducting up front.

I used a rubbermaid container and my best eyeball measuring tools. If I wanted, I've got a second shot at it waiting, I could get it much closer with this template.

Dirty, dirty.


Made a top cover because why not, it fits pretty damn well, the shape of the rubbermaid is pretty close. New oil line, finally removed the AC bracket as well.











Something is wrong with my cat, plz halp?

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

That worked surprisingly well.

Now clean the cockroaches out of your intercooler, and you probably wouldnt need the ducting.

NBoost

Holy ****. ******* genius work on the ducting. Literally I said it out-loud at my work desk ha. Seems easily doable on an NB as well.

My brother is building a turbo 1.6, I will have him check this out.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Thanks guys!

Didn't work all bad for a container I just had lying around. I kinda initially started copying Revlimiter (that's Adam, right?)

Radiator Mouth Shrouding ? 1st version ? revlimiter.net

Washing this car in any way would ruin such a good thing! I believe this one's been washed once since I got it, that's a good record

deezums

iTrader: (3)

So I don't think I ever needed ducting, because I still have temperature problems. I think they are all virtual still, I'm about to modify some linearity into the stock dash gauge and see if it follows as well...



(finally got boost control under control as well, woot-woot! Look at that flat boost DC!)

Quickly spike to 220F with load, but the temperature starts falling before I ever let off. I'm wondering if I don't just have pinhole leaks somewhere (replacing lower radiator hoses now, seriously all that's left of OEM) or if my block or head is split, maybe I suck at evacuating air bubbles? maybe my reroute sucks?

This is a 195 degree thermostat, I have a new 180 degree one but I keep waffling on weather or not I want to install it. I've gotten quite decent at swapping thermostats, can do it in no time.

I'm considering that, or maybe poking a small hole in the 195 that is installed now, remove the jiggle pin maybe. It looks as though I can dump heat into my coolant much faster than the thermostat can open and let it loose, can that happen? Would the 180 "stall" open slightly more than the 195, or would it likely just overcool and slap shut then spike even harder next time I hit boost?

Argh!

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

How do you burp your coolant?

deezums

iTrader: (3)

I don't have the monster big bucket, but I park on a steep hill and I have a funnel that lets me get ~3-4" of extra height over the radiator inlet.



I'm using a specific gravity gauge to mix the coolant to about -20C worth of the green stuff, no water wetter or anything else.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

That should be good enough. What is your process for doing the burping? I set my MS to turn on fans around 204 and then back off at 195. I get the front end up like you have it and put on my magic funnel. I then let the car run until the fan turns on and then back off 3 times. Each time the fan comes in I watch and make sure that water is always in the funnel and that it does not suck down more air. After that I put on the radiator cap and let the car sit and idle. I usually observer it getting up to temps for fan to turn on and off twice.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

My process was to turn the fans off and watch the laptop till I started seeing thermostat like behavior, right now my fans are set to come up at 209 and back off at 199 as I never really see much below 198 while hot. It will spike past 210 for a few moments as it burps up air bubbles the first time or two.

My funnel isn't too tall, so if I keep too much water in the funnel it will heat and expand and spill out before the thermostat completely opens and gulps it down. So I leave like 1" of coolant in the funnel till I see 205 or higher, then I wait to feed more coolant as the thermostat opens, though it usually expands and is close to full by the time it opens. At the end of it all I end up spilling a few ounces of coolant still in the funnel, so I like to try and pour straight distilled at that point.

I'm wondering if I shouldn't order the huge funnel, there's a way to not dump all the coolant still in the funnel all over the ground, right? Would suck much less, for sure.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

<p></p><p>I used a funnel that fit snugly into the radiator inlet. When time to pull it off, I plugged it with a screwdriver handle (blade up) before removing it. That worked fine.</p><p>Now,&nbsp;I borrow&nbsp;a friend's vacuum purge thingy, and that is the best.</p>

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

If you drove it from a cold soak twice with no leaks and no loss of coolant, I'd say you have a sticking thermostat. I had that problem with a new Stand 195*F thermostat. I ended up boiling it in a pot of water and it barely cracked at 195, but didn't fully open till it boiled for a couple minutes.

I now put my old autozone 180*F thermostat in and the car runs 179-182 under all conditions except extended idle, where eventually it will reach 206 and the fans turn on. At extended idle the fans run about 20% of the time.

Again I'd swap thermostat before spending much time/money on this, your datalog looks exactly like mine did when mine stuck. I could go back and find a datalog if you want to see it, but basically mine would slowly climb up to about 210 and then rapidly fall several degrees, and do it again... At constant highway speed.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Yours is somewhere in this pile. Should ship out soonish. Whenever I buy the labels and box it all up.</p><p><br /></p>

deezums

iTrader: (3)

I hadn't thought to use a screwdriver, I'll have to give that a shot next time. Any little bit helps, my undertray will thank me.

I'll give that a shot, I've been using this same thermostat since I first did the reroute and I've had this problem the whole time, would make sense. May as well test this new one, no sense doing it a 6th time

Hell yeah! Can't wait, have some ideas I'd like to try for tuning cruise AFR and timing for best efficiency.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

So I still haven't fixed the coolant issue, I don't often use full boost for very long so for now, ehh..

I did get new headlights though, I can finally freaking see at night. More ebay goodies, I was thinking of making my own but I was able to get these for $150 shipped. I'm pleased, except for how they look, but I don't care what my car looks like as long as I can see.

The alignment tabs don't fit, so I just pinched them in there. I need to take the covers off and spin them just a bit more, plus I need to straighten my destroyed drivers side bucket...

















The drivers light bounces like crazy, I just adjust the rubber snubber for that, right?

Edit: It was actually $143 bucks, this is the link. The seller has 20% off promotions at random. I can't find anything on these lights anywhere, I think they might be pretty new. Anyway, linky

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111720054662...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>************ htose are epic. I wish I had gotten them instead of the hella ones I got. That cut-off is so nice. Please tell me you have the halos wired in.</p>

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Not bad at all, more better than the filiment bulbs.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

I got the ones without halos, because I'm cheap and they were $16 bucks lol

It was this or Hella's, I figure I'm (usually) drawing less amps than stock with these so I'll leave it on the OEM harness. If I went halogen I'd have to do relays and wiring, it'd probably cost the same in the end.

I want trucklites because DOT is nice, but I don't want to spend $300+ on lights...