Not 100% sure and the one I saw would have been brass.

 

Good luck welding brass to aluminum

 

Wow you are expecting way too much here. I am going to JB weld it.

 

My car is off the road again. I went for a nice drive today with the car pulling hard at partial throttle around 10psi. I really love my boosted miata. I did some road AFR tuning and got them pretty smooth at 5 and 10psi and set up a 15.5:1 AFR for the cruise cells. Increased the throttle pump and tip in maps a bit and got a little more "around town" smoothness. Got to my destination and popped the hood to make sure everything was fine.

It wasn't. My ATI damper was oscillating again. I drove home, slowly and looked at it again. It was no longer oscillating. It must be slopping between being up against the crank properly and going a bit out. The shop that installed it did not install it properly. According to ATI, the you have to mic the crank, dial bore gauge the hub, and then hone the hub to the proper interference. See here: http://www.atiracing.com/products/da...structions.htm

I am not sure what to do. I'm concerned that if I take it back there, they will mess it up again. I am also worried that the damper could be messed up since it was brute-forced on since it did not have proper interference. I definitely will not be driving my car anywhere until this is fixed.

Should I go back to that shop? Or pay X hundreds of dollars to have some other shop do it? Or should I do it myself?

 

You keep getting screwed over by shops. Why not do it yourself?

 

You need to do some research on the shops you choose to use.

 

Ahhh and back to the hillbilly build techniques...you are right, I expect to much.

 

Do it your self if you need a bore gauge and a caliper let me know I have them you can borrow. At least you will know that nothing is wrong this time.

 

My only concern about that is messing up the damper when I pull it off since it's apparently on so tight.

 

well apparently every shop you've had work done at so far is operated by braindead idiots so I can't see you possibly doing a worse job since you actually care about your car as opposed to some monkey turning a wrench for 8 dollars/hour.

 

^ Let me know your secret. ****, all the monkeys I know charge at least $90/hr.

 

What you pay as a customer and what the tech get paid are two very different things.

 

I feel sorry for techs who work for $8/hr... But, I feel even more sorry for customers that get work done on their cars by those techs.

 

Holy mother ****** of duck I paid to have this done too.

 

OK so I did some more work.

Took out the old pillar gauge pod which was a super cheapy and put in a better pod. Looks pretty decent now.

Replaced the 20psi worth of wastegate spring with 17psi worth of spring. This took me 5 hours and it cost me $50 because I fucked up a EGT sensor. It really is no fun to **** with the wastegate on this setup. I am envious of top-mount wastegate setups. And V-band setups. Hopefully I won't have to **** with the WG or the DP again while I have this setup. I actually really really want a gotpsi? intake and an ARTECH ramhorn manifold with either a Precsion 5857 or a GTX 3076. Vband everywhere. Plus some cams. I want to see what this setup can accomplish though.

Put on some fat silicone hose to connect the breather to the the intake for my catch can. I think I will have to do that whole valve cover baffle porting thing because oil is coming out of my filler cap under boost. The silicone hose looks like **** but I kinda want to resist having pointless bling with braided catch can hoses.

I think my ATI damper might only be wobbling when the motor is hot. When I started it up tonight, it was spinning nice and true, but after temps stabilized at 195 it was wobbling. So. What does this mean??? The rubber inside it is getting hot and sloppy? ?????????


---

So I took it for a ride just to see if my wastegate spring worked properly. I actually have an 17.4 combo in there and am seeing about 17psi at the MAP sensor so that means under a psi pressure loss across the IC. That pleases me. The BEGI "type 3" IC I am running is pretty small for my HP goals but the WI should compensate very nicely. 17.4psi should be fine without WI.

Tonight was the first night EVERRR that I held it WOT to 7000rpm. It was awesome. 17.4psi is probably around 330hp and I could feel it. Glorious glorious glorious Gs. My car is starting to get really fast. I have RS2s on right now and it was kind of cold around 55 and the rear stepped out nicely in 1st and 2nd. My right foot is not binary so driving around wheelspin is no problem but I really eased into it for 3rd gear. I-95 in thanksgiving rush hour traffic is not the best test track. AFRs were okish around 12:1 with no detonation logged or displayed on the knocklite but I fattened it up a lot after I saw the log. After all this bullshit, it was so really nice to feel the car working how I've wanted it to for so long.

 

I took out the engine bay cruise control module today. Maybe someday when I pull the dash I will swap out the pedals and get the **** out from under the dash too. I never use cruise, even in my daily driver. Maybe if I was driving through the desert but then I would be going over 100mph so nah.

Taking the cruise module out freed up a lot of space and the engine bay looks much better. With the unit gone, I could clearly see my firewall hole AKA my cable gangbang port.



HOLY **** THAT IS A LOT OF WIRES. Hot banana **** is this really the best way to get these wires into the cabin? When the day comes to rewire everything from scratch all this **** will have to go into it's own harness. Actually, faeflora, that's a great idea. When the number of sensors I use stabilizes I think I will make an engine bay-cabin harness.

Oh and I started up the car to look at the damper. Right off the start, it was wobbling. So I think that means the damper itself is fine since it looked like that when hot last night. Blah.

 

I don't consider braided line and AN fittings pointless bling. I like my engine to look as good as it runs. Not only that, it makes line removal easy, and you don't have a bunch of butt ugly clamps holding line on, or trust barb and hose system to not have split hose. But, to each, their own. Here's a pic of my pointless bling just for fun.



Please note other pointless bling (braided lines) on fuel system, WG, BOV, and turbo. My bling is faster than your silicone. Keep up the good work.

 

some of us just don't have that kinda green burning a hole in our pockets to throw down on braided everything. I'd definitely do it funds permitting though

 

Wow, you take it so personally! So sensitive!

You know, I did some reading and thinking last night. The braided lines for vacuum/breather hose do definitely have their benefits other than looks. They (had better not) won't deteriorate from heat, they won't collapse, they won't swell, they won't get cut open. That is enough functional justification for the extra cost.

I do not know jack about all the different connectors though. Which type are you using for your vacuum lines? These? Push-loc? I assume the catch cans are the flare type connectors.

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-AN-P...73391/10002/-1

Ouch. We'll see for how long. Actually, unless I went to a turbo that could flow more you could always have much much more HP.

 

if you install it like this:


it will be forever.