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Old 07-07-2010, 12:50 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WonTon View Post
we also wanted pics of the modifications to the clutch fork....
You guys are too used to being spoon fed ****, clutch fork was bent then welded, ***** on and the trannies on, its not coming back off for a pic of a bent fork lol.

If you are going to do this swap that part won't hold you up, the Oilpan is the real ----
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Old 07-07-2010, 01:09 AM   #62
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no, no spoon feeding. if i was wanting you too spoon feed me id be asking for more than just a pic. but whatever, just wanting good documentation. just trying to get a idea of how much i would have to bend the fork, thats all.
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Old 07-07-2010, 01:12 AM   #63
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no, no spoon feeding. if i was wanting you too spoon feed me id be asking for more than just a pic. but whatever, just wanting good documentation. just trying to get a idea of how much i would have to bend the fork, thats all.
Send me 30bux and I'll make it for you if you do the swap ok? lol

It takes like 10minutes to do, it isn't much man.
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Old 07-07-2010, 01:31 AM   #64
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im just trying to grasp the concept of certain aspects of the build. i can see the swap in person when m2cupcar gets his back up and going.

it will be a while from now before im even close to be able to start planning a swap like this......you thread is pretty much my deciding factor in the matter.
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Old 07-07-2010, 09:06 AM   #65
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Not having the two parts sitting on the floor is just causing insane curiosity. Sean my F block will be on the floor of the garage in a couple of weeks and you can bring up your six speed. From what Dean says it should be fairly obvious what's going on when we stick them together. For me the 6 spd is a better option for simplicity even though I've got two TII trans, so we can just build two forks at the same time.

Dean - what did you end up running for the flywheel/clutch/pp?
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Old 07-07-2010, 02:13 PM   #66
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Anyone know what the 6 speed and 1.8 rears can handle horse power wise? The 6 speed sounds like the easy way to go if it can take the power.
Thanks.
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Old 07-07-2010, 02:20 PM   #67
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More than the Miata 5 speed, less than the R trans from the Turbo II.
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Old 07-08-2010, 12:04 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
Not having the two parts sitting on the floor is just causing insane curiosity. Sean my F block will be on the floor of the garage in a couple of weeks and you can bring up your six speed. From what Dean says it should be fairly obvious what's going on when we stick them together. For me the 6 spd is a better option for simplicity even though I've got two TII trans, so we can just build two forks at the same time.

Dean - what did you end up running for the flywheel/clutch/pp?
ill be ready to do this when you are, im off on Fridays and Saturdays. so one of those two days i can make it up to your neck of the woods.
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Old 07-09-2010, 08:17 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
Not having the two parts sitting on the floor is just causing insane curiosity. Sean my F block will be on the floor of the garage in a couple of weeks and you can bring up your six speed. From what Dean says it should be fairly obvious what's going on when we stick them together. For me the 6 spd is a better option for simplicity even though I've got two TII trans, so we can just build two forks at the same time.

Dean - what did you end up running for the flywheel/clutch/pp?
9lbs alum 626 flywheel with miata pp and disk.

Rob, you'll need or atleast it what i used, the metal gasket that goes between the trans and motor as a template for the transfer punches. Then you'll be drilling thru the flange. The F block and 6 speed dowels line up so the input shaft will be centered ect.

Only issue with this is there are only a few bolts holding the motor to the trans. I dont see it being a huge issue though.

Motor is offcially in! (although I'm an idiot and didnt take any pics after I finished lol)

Ported out my intake manifold abit and knife edged the runners, swapped intake cam to a FE3N from the FEAP. 9.5ish mm of lift

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Here Rob, see nothing special here.
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Last edited by dc2696; 07-11-2010 at 02:25 PM.
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Old 07-09-2010, 08:41 PM   #70
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That sounds feasible. I think most of the adapter plates use four bolts and nobody had an issue with that. The dowel pin alignment is key. FEAP is garbage- good swap there. In stock form at 9.5:1 the FE made 140ftlbs, so you should see more than that NA... about half what you made boosted.
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Old 07-09-2010, 08:46 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
That sounds feasible. I think most of the adapter plates use four bolts and nobody had an issue with that. The dowel pin alignment is key. FEAP is garbage- good swap there. In stock form at 9.5:1 the FE made 140ftlbs, so you should see more than that NA... about half what you made boosted.
Ya its going to be a monster alright, gonna slay some stock b16 civics...I hope lol
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Old 07-10-2010, 12:59 PM   #72
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Cas got messed up during the install, officially impossible to install the motor with this oilpan and the cas in.

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clearance is about .125" to the subframe, I'm pretty happy with the way it's sitting now.
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Old 07-10-2010, 07:51 PM   #73
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I don't think 1/8 inch is enough clearance, when the engine rocks on the mounts I am willing to bet the pan is going to contact the cross member.
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Old 07-10-2010, 08:10 PM   #74
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I don't think 1/8 inch is enough clearance, when the engine rocks on the mounts I am willing to bet the pan is going to contact the cross member.
Mounts aren't stock, I'm not worried.
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Old 07-10-2010, 11:06 PM   #75
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I checked the engine rocking and couldn't find any significant compression. It actually rises on the side opposite the opposing mount. Compression will happen on jarring hits but I can't see it compressing 1/8th inch.
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Old 07-11-2010, 01:57 AM   #76
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^^^ Good to hear. Hopefully I am wrong, but my gut tells me that 1/8" may be cutting it a bit to close. If you find that it is hitting, you can always shim the mounts, but at this point that is putting the cart in front of the horse
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Old 07-11-2010, 08:21 PM   #77
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My first round on the mounts required a 1/16" shim at the driver side mount and it solved the problem. My pan was hitting that aluminum collar on the rack- actually riding on it most of the time.

Dean- looks like you have at least six bolts through the engine and tranmission- correct?

Last edited by m2cupcar; 07-12-2010 at 08:42 AM.
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Old 07-12-2010, 09:29 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
My first round on the mounts required a 1/16" shim at the driver side mount and it solved the problem. My pan was hitting that aluminum collar on the rack- actually riding on it most of the time.

Dean- looks like you have at least six bolts through the engine and tranmission- correct?
4 big bolts and a couple (2) small ones.
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Old 08-06-2010, 11:42 AM   #79
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Wow!

nice build!

(and a Canadian one! woot woot!)
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Old 08-09-2010, 09:13 AM   #80
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So howz it runnin?! Break the 6 speed yet?
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