FE3 Swap
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You guys are too used to being spoon fed ****, clutch fork was bent then welded, ***** on and the trannies on, its not coming back off for a pic of a bent fork lol.
If you are going to do this swap that part won't hold you up, the Oilpan is the real ----
If you are going to do this swap that part won't hold you up, the Oilpan is the real ----
no, no spoon feeding. if i was wanting you too spoon feed me id be asking for more than just a pic. but whatever, just wanting good documentation. just trying to get a idea of how much i would have to bend the fork, thats all.
im just trying to grasp the concept of certain aspects of the build. i can see the swap in person when m2cupcar gets his back up and going.
it will be a while from now before im even close to be able to start planning a swap like this......you thread is pretty much my deciding factor in the matter.
it will be a while from now before im even close to be able to start planning a swap like this......you thread is pretty much my deciding factor in the matter.
Not having the two parts sitting on the floor is just causing insane curiosity. Sean my F block will be on the floor of the garage in a couple of weeks and you can bring up your six speed. From what Dean says it should be fairly obvious what's going on when we stick them together. For me the 6 spd is a better option for simplicity even though I've got two TII trans, so we can just build two forks at the same time.
Dean - what did you end up running for the flywheel/clutch/pp?
Dean - what did you end up running for the flywheel/clutch/pp?
Not having the two parts sitting on the floor is just causing insane curiosity. Sean my F block will be on the floor of the garage in a couple of weeks and you can bring up your six speed. From what Dean says it should be fairly obvious what's going on when we stick them together. For me the 6 spd is a better option for simplicity even though I've got two TII trans, so we can just build two forks at the same time.
Dean - what did you end up running for the flywheel/clutch/pp?
Dean - what did you end up running for the flywheel/clutch/pp?
Thread Starter
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From: Edmonton Ab, Canada
Not having the two parts sitting on the floor is just causing insane curiosity. Sean my F block will be on the floor of the garage in a couple of weeks and you can bring up your six speed. From what Dean says it should be fairly obvious what's going on when we stick them together. For me the 6 spd is a better option for simplicity even though I've got two TII trans, so we can just build two forks at the same time.
Dean - what did you end up running for the flywheel/clutch/pp?
Dean - what did you end up running for the flywheel/clutch/pp?
Rob, you'll need or atleast it what i used, the metal gasket that goes between the trans and motor as a template for the transfer punches. Then you'll be drilling thru the flange. The F block and 6 speed dowels line up so the input shaft will be centered ect.
Only issue with this is there are only a few bolts holding the motor to the trans. I dont see it being a huge issue though.
Motor is offcially in! (although I'm an idiot and didnt take any pics after I finished lol)
Ported out my intake manifold abit and knife edged the runners, swapped intake cam to a FE3N from the FEAP. 9.5ish mm of lift





Here Rob, see nothing special here.
Last edited by dc2696; Jul 11, 2010 at 02:25 PM.
That sounds feasible. I think most of the adapter plates use four bolts and nobody had an issue with that. The dowel pin alignment is key. FEAP is garbage- good swap there. In stock form at 9.5:1 the FE made 140ftlbs, so you should see more than that NA... about half what you made boosted.
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From: Edmonton Ab, Canada
That sounds feasible. I think most of the adapter plates use four bolts and nobody had an issue with that. The dowel pin alignment is key. FEAP is garbage- good swap there. In stock form at 9.5:1 the FE made 140ftlbs, so you should see more than that NA... about half what you made boosted. 

Ya its going to be a monster alright, gonna slay some stock b16 civics...I hope lol
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Cas got messed up during the install, officially impossible to install the motor with this oilpan and the cas in.

clearance is about .125" to the subframe, I'm pretty happy with the way it's sitting now.
I checked the engine rocking and couldn't find any significant compression. It actually rises on the side opposite the opposing mount. Compression will happen on jarring hits but I can't see it compressing 1/8th inch.
^^^ Good to hear. Hopefully I am wrong, but my gut tells me that 1/8" may be cutting it a bit to close. If you find that it is hitting, you can always shim the mounts, but at this point that is putting the cart in front of the horse 



My first round on the mounts required a 1/16" shim at the driver side mount and it solved the problem. My pan was hitting that aluminum collar on the rack- actually riding on it most of the time.
Dean- looks like you have at least six bolts through the engine and tranmission- correct?
Dean- looks like you have at least six bolts through the engine and tranmission- correct?
Last edited by m2cupcar; Jul 12, 2010 at 08:42 AM.
Thread Starter
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From: Edmonton Ab, Canada
My first round on the mounts required a 1/16" shim at the driver side mount and it solved the problem. My pan was hitting that aluminum collar on the rack- actually riding on it most of the time.
Dean- looks like you have at least six bolts through the engine and tranmission- correct?
Dean- looks like you have at least six bolts through the engine and tranmission- correct?





Break the 6 speed yet?