Finally my 1st (water cooled) turbo build
12-10-2015, 01:58 PM
#441
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: A cave in Va
Posts: 3,395
Total Cats: 456
Now that the engine is out and apart again, the snowball is growing. If I went to a different turbo, I would need to trim a good amount off the shelf of the firewall. Is there any consequence to doing this, that anyone can foresee? turbos are expensive, so are downpipes. I'm trying to avoid having to buy a manifold too.
Reply
1
1
12-10-2015, 02:08 PM
#443
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: A cave in Va
Posts: 3,395
Total Cats: 456
The shop where I work on my stuff, is an hour away, and to take a non running car back and forth just isn't feasible. Can't leave it there either. My entire build is pretty much going down in a carport on the side of my house.
Reply
2
2
12-10-2015, 05:38 PM
#445
Now that the engine is out and apart again, the snowball is growing. If I went to a different turbo, I would need to trim a good amount off the shelf of the firewall. Is there any consequence to doing this, that anyone can foresee? turbos are expensive, so are downpipes. I'm trying to avoid having to buy a manifold too.
I have an idea though, one option to consider. Put the car together with the manifold/turbo/downpipe/sweet as hardlines/sweet *** heat shield you already have and enjoy it. You should be able to make probably 260-280whp with that setup no problem on pump gas and a safe tune. More if you push it to the max though for reliability I wouldn't recommend it. I pushed my GT3271 to the max and that's how I wore out the thrust bearing and then the comp wheel hit the housing. But I was pushing it to choked flow.
Reply
0
0
12-19-2015, 07:42 PM
#446
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: A cave in Va
Posts: 3,395
Total Cats: 456
I had replaced the flange, to install the 10 mm studs, but I did a super shitty job the first time. So I fixed it today. Cut the old one off, made a new one, welded it on. Done.
Reply
1
1
12-28-2015, 03:24 AM
#449
Former Vendor
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Bratislava
Posts: 66
Total Cats: 1
Interesting. Do you have any experience if it actually holds them in place? My turbo-to-manifold ones get loose every now and then and I'm a bit worried that I'll damage the threads from the (ir)regular tightening up.
Reply
0
0
12-28-2015, 07:22 AM
#451
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: A cave in Va
Posts: 3,395
Total Cats: 456
Possibly. It was an experiment, so time will tell. Thinking about it more, when you look at the wires in an old toaster, they are pretty stretched out. I'm not sure of the downpipe gets to that orange glow. Does yours?
Reply
0
0
12-28-2015, 07:29 AM
#453
I haven't had a toaster in years :(
I honestly never set a gopro into the engine bay but it doesn't have to glow to get weaker.
I know the collector on my manifold probably glows as the swaintech coating is completely discolored at that location.
Very worst case, you have some extra thread poking out, you can always lightly jam it with another nut.
The only things that have shaken loose on my car has been the cam position sensor and the VVT solenoid. Quite literally vibrated apart.
I honestly never set a gopro into the engine bay but it doesn't have to glow to get weaker.
I know the collector on my manifold probably glows as the swaintech coating is completely discolored at that location.
Very worst case, you have some extra thread poking out, you can always lightly jam it with another nut.
The only things that have shaken loose on my car has been the cam position sensor and the VVT solenoid. Quite literally vibrated apart.
Reply
0
0
