williams805

iTrader: (2)

CCing a couple of cambers after the machine shop removed ~.004".
I still got a little over 50cc's so it didn't do much thankfully.


Getting things done.




Grinding shims down. Think I'll only need to buy one.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

OOooooooooo PWETTY.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Damn man, straight engine **** right here. Subbed for epic goodness.

williams805

iTrader: (2)

Thanks fellas.

This Christmas vacation has been prosperous.
Cleaning the pan.


Long block and then some.


And now, the great migration north. While other BP's are making there way onto engine stands all over the world, this little guy is making the trip from it's birth place in the build room north, all the way home to the drive way. It's a long uphill trip across vast expanses of gravel and cracked blacktop.










It even met a friend named Rudy on the way.


Almost home!

williams805

iTrader: (2)

Home at last

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

DAT VIEW. Sexy man, looks like you're livin' it up.

Also, why no coolant re-route?

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Dat SoCal view.

williams805

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, I'm doing my best.

Reroute will come down the line. Just another thing on the list. I needed a more efficient daily than the 12.5 mpg jeep or the GF's Duramax. Gotta save the dmax to pull the toy hauler.

Stick around a little longer next time, I'll give you the tour.

Miata99

Nice build so far, should of painted the VC why it was off.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

How many HP is that mod worth?

southernmx5

iTrader: (1)

One does not simply roll into Mordor on an engine stand!

williams805

iTrader: (2)

I got good news and bad news.

First the good. I've put a little over 1000 miles and 2 oil changes on the engine. Runs flawless.

Now the bad. Had a pretty significant oil leak. It was coming from the input shaft seal. I pulled the tranny this weekend and replaced it. All good now.

I saved a jar of oil from the first and second oil changes to send to Blackstone. Just got the kit from them in the mail. I was running Joe Gibbs break in oil for the first 2 changes. Now I'm running Rottella T6 and a larger filter. I plan on changing at 3000 and sending for more UOA.

williams805

iTrader: (2)

I got my first UOA back.
400 miles on Joe Gibbs break in oil...


I'm waiting on another kit to send my second sample in. I ran about 600 miles, again on Joe Gibbs to finish off the bottle I bought. I'm curious to see what the lead level is in the second sample.

Has anyone else run UOA on their break in miles? I'd like to see them.

williams805

iTrader: (2)

1000 miles of "break in" aka no boost but plenty of beating the **** out of it resulted in less than 1/4 quart of oil consumption.
3000 miles later, with 7-8psi, she drank 3 and 3/4 quarts of oil. WOW!

I was a little worried that I somehow damaged rings but cylinder leakage test resulted in less than 5% across the board (closer to 3 really). This is using an OTC leakage tester with two 100psi gauges and a compressor regulated to ~120. I set the tester regulator to 100psi and the second gauge reads about 2psi lower with the hose hooked up and my finger over the end of it. Each cylinder at TCD (compression) reads 95psi.








Also, not that it matters too much, my Mac compression tester put me at 185-190psi on all cylinders.


Looks like it is time for some oil separators/ catch cans. Because this is a street driven car in California and I hug trees, I plan on dual cans, one on each side of the valve cover. Also thinking of opening the center hole in the valve cover (as in the last thread linked below) and kitchen scrubbers in the V/C well away from the outlets.

I've been reading plenty of catch can threads lately and found some good ****. However I still haven't found any end all be all on this subject. Most with my problem are running 10+psi. This could indicate, one of the gaskets for the plates on the underside of the valve cover is missing/damaged.

I found everything from stock from "GTX PCV" should be good, to "vacuum pump" or "dry sump", lol.

If anyone has legit suggestions, speak on it.

For those who may have stumbled here by searching, some reading material...

https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...-thread-46833/

https://www.miataturbo.net/random-su...umption-77563/

https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...-thread-78293/

https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...can-oil-62100/

https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...ication-54742/

codrus

6 months late (sorry, only just noticed the question), but yes, I do. It even had AC until a year or two ago.

--Ian

williams805

iTrader: (2)

Been looking around a little more and found this thread and plan on doing something very similar.

https://www.miataturbo.net/random-su...n-setup-72773/



Also ran across this so I will be adding a check valve or three.

https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...-system-70359/

Like this:



Or this:

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

Those system diagrams look like they are really over complicating things with more than one catch can.



What you should do, is enlarge the hoses from the valve cover from 3/8" or so that the stock is to 1/2" inner diameter minimum to one large catch can. Ensure that the hole into the valve cover is enlarged and preferably vertical (hard with hood clearance).
With turbo, you add a lot of extra volume of flow since the leakdown is the same as before but your flowing a lot more volume through the engine. If you leave the stock diameter tubing your going to create a syphon due to the velocity to flow the new higher volume. its not the routing, its not the check valves... just the cross sectional volume of the system.

If you need to pass an inspection (fail on vented catch can) just run it from the top of the catch can to the pre-turbo intake. if you have 2x 1/2" id from the valve cover I would do a single 3/4" i.d. hose from the catch can to the intake pipe.



There is a catch can/ crankcase venting thread somewhere here on MT, but there is a lot of theory and crap about what works and people share some ideas, but this works.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Um, you cant have the PCV and VC vent go to the same can. The PCV needs its own can because that one connects to the intake manifold, and the VC one more or less just vents to air. The valve cover really has no need for a catch can, the can for it wont collect anything.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

Your also over complicating things.

They both go to the same place prior to adding boost. They are both vaccum operated and connected to the intake tract.

Changing the system for boost is just way easier to cap the intake manifold port and have a large line go to the intake tract where it will only see vaccum (intake, pre turbo)

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Not on a street car. Street car still spends most of its life in vac, the PCV needs to stay in place, and functioning as stock, but it does suck some oil so having the catch can on that one would be nice. The valve cover side can just go to a filter or to the pre-turbo intake and it doesnt seem to send out much, if any oil. They need to stay separate though.