Forced induction bottom end build... AKA the unplanned child.
#101
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If you believe that, leave the PCV hose as is with a boost rated check valve.
Then you will need to add the system I described above. 2x 1/2" i.d. hose from valve cover to catch can and 3/4" i.d. from can to pre-turbo. That way once you cross over from vac to boost you can evac the crank case pressure.
with the PCV in place, that port on the valve cover is essentially blocked off once you go into boost. the check valve closes and you have the single left side port trying to evac ALL of the pressure. undeniably more flow than the stock system was designed for, even at 1psi. As such, a catch can on the PCV line wont help since the high flow situations- it will have no flow through the can in time of need anyways.
Then you will need to add the system I described above. 2x 1/2" i.d. hose from valve cover to catch can and 3/4" i.d. from can to pre-turbo. That way once you cross over from vac to boost you can evac the crank case pressure.
with the PCV in place, that port on the valve cover is essentially blocked off once you go into boost. the check valve closes and you have the single left side port trying to evac ALL of the pressure. undeniably more flow than the stock system was designed for, even at 1psi. As such, a catch can on the PCV line wont help since the high flow situations- it will have no flow through the can in time of need anyways.
#103
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Then you need to have another provision to vent the excess gasses now that you have increased the amount of gas to flow by being turbo and being that your now down to one valve cover vent since the PCV is closed (half of stock) and 0 crank case vents.
#104
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I have the GTX PCV valve. It leaks with boost. That is why I will be installing the check valve in tandem with the PCV. I should still provide vacuum to crank case during idle/cruise but will certainly block any boost from entering. The separator on that side will take care of my oil in the intake problem.
Since the PCV valve will remain (and is probably the smallest restriction) I will leave the diameter of these hoses at 3/8". It will only need to handle a "stock" engine because anytime in boost, there is no flow through this side. In my case there is no need to enlarge this side of things.
On the fresh air side of things:
I plan to enlarge the small hole in between the two chambers in the valve cover as described in one of the earlier posted threads. I believe that is the smallest restriction and therefore should be the first to be addressed. I'm not running much boost right now so I'm hoping to get away with running 3/8" hoses. If not I will step it up to a larger diameter.
I'm running the second oil separator over here because I have oil in my blower, intercooler and pipes. This should prevent that. I've read some people getting nothing in this can and others do. I imagine I will because there is oil coming out of that side of the v/c now.
As for the check valves on this side, I'm undecided for now. I may add them but not right away.
Since the PCV valve will remain (and is probably the smallest restriction) I will leave the diameter of these hoses at 3/8". It will only need to handle a "stock" engine because anytime in boost, there is no flow through this side. In my case there is no need to enlarge this side of things.
On the fresh air side of things:
I plan to enlarge the small hole in between the two chambers in the valve cover as described in one of the earlier posted threads. I believe that is the smallest restriction and therefore should be the first to be addressed. I'm not running much boost right now so I'm hoping to get away with running 3/8" hoses. If not I will step it up to a larger diameter.
I'm running the second oil separator over here because I have oil in my blower, intercooler and pipes. This should prevent that. I've read some people getting nothing in this can and others do. I imagine I will because there is oil coming out of that side of the v/c now.
As for the check valves on this side, I'm undecided for now. I may add them but not right away.
#105
Then don't modify it. It wont suck any more oil into the intake than stock and that is negligible. As mentioned it will just close off after boost comes on.
Then you need to have another provision to vent the excess gasses now that you have increased the amount of gas to flow by being turbo and being that your now down to one valve cover vent since the PCV is closed (half of stock) and 0 crank case vents.
Then you need to have another provision to vent the excess gasses now that you have increased the amount of gas to flow by being turbo and being that your now down to one valve cover vent since the PCV is closed (half of stock) and 0 crank case vents.
#108
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Latest oil report really doesn't tell too much because of all the added oil. Here it is anyway.
I received the 3/8" check valves from US Plastics. The I.D. is super small so I'll only be using one on the PCV side for now. May need to step up hose size to keep the PVC as the smallest restriction on this side.
I received the 3/8" check valves from US Plastics. The I.D. is super small so I'll only be using one on the PCV side for now. May need to step up hose size to keep the PVC as the smallest restriction on this side.
#109
Reporting back. I did drill out that passage between the two chambers inside the valve cover on the exhaust side, worst idea ever. Even with basically a copy of my last years setup except with the cover hold drilled an -10AN lines, I'm pulling about 1/2liter into my catch can in 2 auto-x runs. I wish I didnt **** around with the stupid crank case venting **** at all when it wasnt posing a direct problem because everything I did took something that wasnt a problem at ~250ish hp and made it into a disaster.
TLDR leave your pcv **** stockish until you start blowing oil seals out of the engine.
TLDR leave your pcv **** stockish until you start blowing oil seals out of the engine.
#111
I doubt it went down, car is still stupid fast. Compression was low right after break in, 165, 165, 164, 165, but with how consistent it was I'm guessing just a low reading gauge. But literally went from no oil in that catch can to ALLOFIT over the winter. I'm going to leak down or at least compression test it next weekend, but I'd be really surprised if the cylinder sealing went to **** with the engine just sitting all winter.
#115
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Finally blew one of my tire out this weekend. No biggie, low speed and she let go easy.
So a little further down the rabbit hole I go...
Gotta love new rubber
31.35 lbs not bad
Stock vs new
On car
I see how this goes. Now I just need some Xidas, a roll bar, brakes.....
The fun little $500 car is getting expensive. Lol
So a little further down the rabbit hole I go...
Gotta love new rubber
31.35 lbs not bad
Stock vs new
On car
I see how this goes. Now I just need some Xidas, a roll bar, brakes.....
The fun little $500 car is getting expensive. Lol
#117
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Looks like tecna's are up for pre-order on 949. Time for the insurance money from that expedition tring to take me out to pay off.
Tecna coilovers Miata
Tecna coilovers Miata
#119
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I went out to warm the car up yesterday morning and my blower sounded like it was trying to eat it self. So I need to make a choice.
Option A: I figure it will be close a grand to have it fully gone through with ceramic coat on rotors and porting.
Option B: I've been looking at the efficiency maps of the TVS chargers and am considering either a 1320 or 1900. The 1320 would be a no brainer and would get me to 300whp without much drama where as with my mp62 that's really pushing it (over spinning and out side of efficiency range). 1320 would be a good match but... A few months ago I found a tvs 1900 that came off a late model jag or rover for $600. Now I'm kicking myself because I haven't seen another.
I really want the one with the throttle body and drive pulley up front like the jag/rover application. Also magnusson has a new kit for V6 wranglers (1320) that is set up that way. But that would mean trying to get just the blower out of them without the rest of the kit which will probably be more costly that rebuilding mine.
I've seen plenty of used cobalt/Saturn 1320's for sale but they are way too long set up for front wheel drive with pulley at the front and TB at the back all cast in to the housing.
Not really sure how putting a supercharge on with displacement as big as my engine will respond. If I can find another front TB 1900 for the right price, I will find out. If anyone has a line on one of these please get at me.
Option C: Turbo. I really can't swing $3500 in hot parts right now. I know I could do it cheaper but at this point efr and ARtech is mighty win.
I have a few months to think about it so hopefully I can find something.
Option A: I figure it will be close a grand to have it fully gone through with ceramic coat on rotors and porting.
Option B: I've been looking at the efficiency maps of the TVS chargers and am considering either a 1320 or 1900. The 1320 would be a no brainer and would get me to 300whp without much drama where as with my mp62 that's really pushing it (over spinning and out side of efficiency range). 1320 would be a good match but... A few months ago I found a tvs 1900 that came off a late model jag or rover for $600. Now I'm kicking myself because I haven't seen another.
I really want the one with the throttle body and drive pulley up front like the jag/rover application. Also magnusson has a new kit for V6 wranglers (1320) that is set up that way. But that would mean trying to get just the blower out of them without the rest of the kit which will probably be more costly that rebuilding mine.
I've seen plenty of used cobalt/Saturn 1320's for sale but they are way too long set up for front wheel drive with pulley at the front and TB at the back all cast in to the housing.
Not really sure how putting a supercharge on with displacement as big as my engine will respond. If I can find another front TB 1900 for the right price, I will find out. If anyone has a line on one of these please get at me.
Option C: Turbo. I really can't swing $3500 in hot parts right now. I know I could do it cheaper but at this point efr and ARtech is mighty win.
I have a few months to think about it so hopefully I can find something.