Forced induction bottom end build... AKA the unplanned child. - Page 6 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 06-04-2014, 09:59 AM   #101
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If you believe that, leave the PCV hose as is with a boost rated check valve.

Then you will need to add the system I described above. 2x 1/2" i.d. hose from valve cover to catch can and 3/4" i.d. from can to pre-turbo. That way once you cross over from vac to boost you can evac the crank case pressure.


with the PCV in place, that port on the valve cover is essentially blocked off once you go into boost. the check valve closes and you have the single left side port trying to evac ALL of the pressure. undeniably more flow than the stock system was designed for, even at 1psi. As such, a catch can on the PCV line wont help since the high flow situations- it will have no flow through the can in time of need anyways.
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Old 06-04-2014, 12:01 PM   #102
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Yes but on a street car you want the PCV to work as designed, but just not suck oil into the intake manifold.

We really all over think this venting thing. Just make sure you have enough that you're not blowing the seals out of the engine and its all good.
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Old 06-04-2014, 12:52 PM   #103
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Quote:
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Yes but on a street car you want the PCV to work as designed, but just not suck oil into the intake manifold..
Then don't modify it. It wont suck any more oil into the intake than stock and that is negligible. As mentioned it will just close off after boost comes on.

Then you need to have another provision to vent the excess gasses now that you have increased the amount of gas to flow by being turbo and being that your now down to one valve cover vent since the PCV is closed (half of stock) and 0 crank case vents.
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Old 06-04-2014, 01:27 PM   #104
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I have the GTX PCV valve. It leaks with boost. That is why I will be installing the check valve in tandem with the PCV. I should still provide vacuum to crank case during idle/cruise but will certainly block any boost from entering. The separator on that side will take care of my oil in the intake problem.
Since the PCV valve will remain (and is probably the smallest restriction) I will leave the diameter of these hoses at 3/8". It will only need to handle a "stock" engine because anytime in boost, there is no flow through this side. In my case there is no need to enlarge this side of things.

On the fresh air side of things:
I plan to enlarge the small hole in between the two chambers in the valve cover as described in one of the earlier posted threads. I believe that is the smallest restriction and therefore should be the first to be addressed. I'm not running much boost right now so I'm hoping to get away with running 3/8" hoses. If not I will step it up to a larger diameter.
I'm running the second oil separator over here because I have oil in my blower, intercooler and pipes. This should prevent that. I've read some people getting nothing in this can and others do. I imagine I will because there is oil coming out of that side of the v/c now.
As for the check valves on this side, I'm undecided for now. I may add them but not right away.
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Old 06-04-2014, 01:35 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shlammed View Post
Then don't modify it. It wont suck any more oil into the intake than stock and that is negligible. As mentioned it will just close off after boost comes on.

Then you need to have another provision to vent the excess gasses now that you have increased the amount of gas to flow by being turbo and being that your now down to one valve cover vent since the PCV is closed (half of stock) and 0 crank case vents.
But the PCV sucks a lot of oil into the intake when stock.
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Old 06-04-2014, 02:48 PM   #106
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IMO, the key to a good catch can setup is to make every passage considerably bigger.

Enlarge the holes in valve cover, weld big fittings, run big hoses.
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Old 06-05-2014, 08:51 AM   #107
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This guy gets it.
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Old 06-08-2014, 10:05 PM   #108
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Latest oil report really doesn't tell too much because of all the added oil. Here it is anyway.



I received the 3/8" check valves from US Plastics. The I.D. is super small so I'll only be using one on the PCV side for now. May need to step up hose size to keep the PVC as the smallest restriction on this side.
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Forced induction bottom end build... AKA the unplanned child.-ed8b647f-77a6-4c13-9c1f-af83f4239aa9.png  
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Old 06-08-2014, 10:15 PM   #109
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Reporting back. I did drill out that passage between the two chambers inside the valve cover on the exhaust side, worst idea ever. Even with basically a copy of my last years setup except with the cover hold drilled an -10AN lines, I'm pulling about 1/2liter into my catch can in 2 auto-x runs. I wish I didnt **** around with the stupid crank case venting **** at all when it wasnt posing a direct problem because everything I did took something that wasnt a problem at ~250ish hp and made it into a disaster.

TLDR leave your pcv **** stockish until you start blowing oil seals out of the engine.
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Old 06-08-2014, 11:00 PM   #110
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Oooh, wow!
Cylinder leakage is all good?

Edit:
Are you running an oil cooler?
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Old 06-08-2014, 11:04 PM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williams805 View Post
Oooh, wow!
Cylinder leakage is all good?
I doubt it went down, car is still stupid fast. Compression was low right after break in, 165, 165, 164, 165, but with how consistent it was I'm guessing just a low reading gauge. But literally went from no oil in that catch can to ALLOFIT over the winter. I'm going to leak down or at least compression test it next weekend, but I'd be really surprised if the cylinder sealing went to **** with the engine just sitting all winter.
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Old 06-09-2014, 08:55 AM   #112
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weld that hole shut and put your -10 fitting on top of the valve cover.
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Old 06-17-2014, 09:15 PM   #113
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Got the dual cans on. I really don't like how restrictive the catch can are with the 3/8" NPT to 3/8", 90degree hose barbs. Also don't really like the routing so I ordered nice black aluminum 1/2" hose barbs to get in and out of the cans. The larger i.d. should be less restrictive.



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Forced induction bottom end build... AKA the unplanned child.-a3438ac9-a0b5-4ffc-aa15-ddc1ae4c1a99.jpg   Forced induction bottom end build... AKA the unplanned child.-4f3b7bea-7feb-4d1e-86ce-f67bc58d028b.jpg  
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Old 06-17-2014, 09:31 PM   #114
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It sure looks pretty though!
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Old 06-25-2014, 10:36 PM   #115
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Finally blew one of my tire out this weekend. No biggie, low speed and she let go easy.
So a little further down the rabbit hole I go...

Gotta love new rubber


31.35 lbs not bad


Stock vs new


On car


I see how this goes. Now I just need some Xidas, a roll bar, brakes.....
The fun little $500 car is getting expensive. Lol
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Forced induction bottom end build... AKA the unplanned child.-a6ef929d-d028-40c7-8b72-0477833df7c7.jpg   Forced induction bottom end build... AKA the unplanned child.-603746bd-620c-4703-802a-e4f0164d281a.jpg   Forced induction bottom end build... AKA the unplanned child.-cb2629ad-55ab-4f81-9428-6c165019c898.jpg   Forced induction bottom end build... AKA the unplanned child.-443dfd2f-d256-48fb-8a97-b7faa8acc3cb.jpg  
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Old 06-26-2014, 10:08 AM   #116
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Nothing is more expensive than a cheap Porsche.

Or a cheap Miata.
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Old 07-12-2014, 12:51 AM   #117
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Looks like tecna's are up for pre-order on 949. Time for the insurance money from that expedition tring to take me out to pay off.
Tecna coilovers Miata
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Old 07-12-2014, 04:21 PM   #118
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OMG, you are awesome! I have been checking 949 daily for months now, but I hadn't today yet.
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Old 08-13-2014, 10:28 PM   #119
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I went out to warm the car up yesterday morning and my blower sounded like it was trying to eat it self. So I need to make a choice.

Option A: I figure it will be close a grand to have it fully gone through with ceramic coat on rotors and porting.

Option B: I've been looking at the efficiency maps of the TVS chargers and am considering either a 1320 or 1900. The 1320 would be a no brainer and would get me to 300whp without much drama where as with my mp62 that's really pushing it (over spinning and out side of efficiency range). 1320 would be a good match but... A few months ago I found a tvs 1900 that came off a late model jag or rover for $600. Now I'm kicking myself because I haven't seen another.

I really want the one with the throttle body and drive pulley up front like the jag/rover application. Also magnusson has a new kit for V6 wranglers (1320) that is set up that way. But that would mean trying to get just the blower out of them without the rest of the kit which will probably be more costly that rebuilding mine.

I've seen plenty of used cobalt/Saturn 1320's for sale but they are way too long set up for front wheel drive with pulley at the front and TB at the back all cast in to the housing.

Not really sure how putting a supercharge on with displacement as big as my engine will respond. If I can find another front TB 1900 for the right price, I will find out. If anyone has a line on one of these please get at me.

Option C: Turbo. I really can't swing $3500 in hot parts right now. I know I could do it cheaper but at this point efr and ARtech is mighty win.

I have a few months to think about it so hopefully I can find something.
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Old 08-13-2014, 10:31 PM   #120
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tntuba and codingparadox basically have blowers the same size as the 1900 on their cars. I think the 1320 is more reasonably sized for most people. IIRC they also sell a generic 1320 just like the mp62 you have now.
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