Yeah, I'm pretty excited.

I'll do most of the tune. When I feel I've gone as far as I can and have the bugs worked out, I'd love to get it on a steady state for final timing and of course get some numbers.

 

So when I first started the car up and was plaing in TS, I swear I remember finding a place where I could choose the wide band I was using. Cannot find it now! Can anyone point me in the right direction?

^ Reason I'm looking is AFR on gauge do not match when getting away from 14.5-15:1. At those numbers they are identical. But at say 17 on the gauge, TS reads 16:2 or so. Not that I'm trying to run the car there but I am suspect that at lower afrs they may also be different.

 

Tools > Calibrate AFR Table ?

 

Yes! Thanks.

 

Okay I got the ID 725s installed. Set required fuel using 715cc as the base. Also tried a few others. Idle is lean with 700-750cc used in required fuel. Then if I VE analyze the idle cells go to way up. Doesn't seem right.

If I set required fuel using 525cc idle is spot on with stock injector VE table but lean elsewhere. I figure I have to play with dead times and low flows but the laptop battery ran out.

Anyone want to help me out on what to set the other tables at using 715cc? I know it's on here somewhere but when searching there are many treads that pop up with 10+ pages it will take a while to find.

 

Read a thread and said **** it.
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...ettings-31877/

I want to think of VE table as volumetric efficiency. I have a hard time thinking volumetric efficiency could be 80% with the throttle closed at idle. Now that I've gotten over it, idles great!

 

Pulling engine Monday to remove oil squirters. I have a week off work and the gf is out of town. Plenty of time to play Miata.

I'll be adding a -10 fitting to the pan for turbo drain. Still need a cap to screw on and plug it. Who's got a source for a female -10 cap?

 

Local hydraulic store. Or anything from summit/jegs.

 

Right on, thanks. Found one on Jegs.

 

you can also get one amazon prime.

 

Progress

 

Progress

 

Just dropped the oil pan off to to have the bung welded in. The machinest spotted a hairline crack in the pan. I thought it was the oil pressure gauge this whole time. Never saw a drop on the ground but would wipe it off when I changed the oil.

 

The pan isn't really going to affect pressure... you mean consumption?

 

I just meant the leak. My mechanical OP gauge gets it source from an oil filter spacer which just happens to sit directly above the crack in the pan. So the fitting was masking the crack in the pan.

I firmly believe there is no way these 2 very minor leaks have contributed much to my oil loss. 9 quarts leaked in the last 9000 miles would make the under side of the car drenched in oil. My car is dry. Just some evidence of previous leaks and the very minor seepage from the OP fitting and pan crack.

 

FYI Have a 1.8 oil pan with a return and oil temp bung for sale.

 

Would cover all the bases for me. Thanks but I'm actually out the door now to pick up my pan all welded up.

 

Kool, glad you got it fixed.

 

Thank you for the offer. Good lookin' out.

 

Job done. Oil squirters out. New -10 drain in oil pan right next to the motor mount.

Shimmed the oil pump pressure relief with 2 washers.
Hot oil pressure (210f) is 25-26 psi @ 850 rpm. Was surprised it didn't go up a little more. Was 20 before.
Hot oil pressure at 7200 rpm is about 82psi. Was expecting a little under 75.

Miles will tell about oil consumption.