H3AVY to H3AVYER to...H3AV1EST P1G
#1943
FIELD TRIP TO THE TRACK
https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...4/#post1220723
had so much fun. will go again soon.
https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...4/#post1220723
had so much fun. will go again soon.
#1944
So today I'll be adding a vacuum/boost source port to the post-turbo charge pipe and hooking up the DIY EBC sometime this week. Then hopefully starting on the harness for the ID725's.
The plan is to keep boost around 10psi, but broaden the threshold as wide as possible with the ebc. Then get Launch Control working, and dialed in, and try the track again and see if I can push a 13.5 on this setup The car certainly has it in her, buy my '60 is just sad with all the wheel spin. 2.3 is worse than FWD
The plan is to keep boost around 10psi, but broaden the threshold as wide as possible with the ebc. Then get Launch Control working, and dialed in, and try the track again and see if I can push a 13.5 on this setup The car certainly has it in her, buy my '60 is just sad with all the wheel spin. 2.3 is worse than FWD
#1946
/\ Actually, so far that has been exactly what I've noticed too. Lowering it did get it to start "smoother", but not faster, unfortunately.
I'm really curious if anyone has a NB that starts as fast as OEM on MS. Not "good enough", not "good, but I don't have a comparison", but actually as fast.
Startup is really important to me because of how often I use it, all my driving is basically really short/frequent drives that involve turning on/off the engine more than your average joe.
I'm really curious if anyone has a NB that starts as fast as OEM on MS. Not "good enough", not "good, but I don't have a comparison", but actually as fast.
Startup is really important to me because of how often I use it, all my driving is basically really short/frequent drives that involve turning on/off the engine more than your average joe.
Basically that system is "sync'd" as soon as the missing tooth event happens, as it had a 36-1 wheel and it sent the RPM signal to the MS2, so MS saw RPM worst case, after 1 revolution.
I had my priming pulse fairly large, and MS2 turned on fuel pump at key-on.
So basically key on, priming pulse gives it a shot of fuel, within 1 rev it sparks from EDIS and Bam, it starts. Literally on the key for about .25 seconds, way way way faster than stock. It was like starting a carb'd vehicle that was just shut off hot, it fired right up.
#1947
I think the key there is the 36-1 maybe.
I played with prime pulse to the point that it would flood/kick back and still no fast start. Wasted like a week on that with the last car.
I'm convinced (as are others) that the stock ecu has built in tables for this sort of thing where it doesn't rely as much on sync to fire....also another table to deal with hot restart return-less injector heat soak issue.
I played with prime pulse to the point that it would flood/kick back and still no fast start. Wasted like a week on that with the last car.
I'm convinced (as are others) that the stock ecu has built in tables for this sort of thing where it doesn't rely as much on sync to fire....also another table to deal with hot restart return-less injector heat soak issue.
#1950
Is your car setup/wired to turn the fuel pump on at key on? IE key on, you hear the pump cycle on for a few seconds? Does your car hold fuel pressure when the key is turned off? A failing/failed 1 way valve in the pump can cause it to loose pressure/prime which will cause starting problems as fuel pressure isn't where it should be.
Send me your tune, I'll check it out.
Send me your tune, I'll check it out.
#1953
Is your car setup/wired to turn the fuel pump on at key on? yes IE key on, you hear the pump cycle on for a few seconds? yesDoes your car hold fuel pressure when the key is turned off? yes A failing/failed 1 way valve in the pump can cause it to loose pressure/prime which will cause starting problems as fuel pressure isn't where it should be. maybe, but it starts perfectly with oem ecu
Send me your tune, I'll check it out.
Send me your tune, I'll check it out.
Otherwise I'm either lazy, distracted, or a combination of both
cause I was swapping that pipe anyways...no real reason. with ebc it wont matter.
#1955
Today I had a spare 2 hours and decided to finally ditch the OEM injectors, and maybe wire in the EBC.
Made a harness, went SURPRISINGLY painless with a Wal-Mart crimper lol
Installed all new o-rings, lubed everything up.
And dropped em in. Had to re-seat one of them after pressurizing the rail.
Total install time working slowly: 1.5 hours.
Need to figure out a good 12v source for the ebc and run the ground wire to the MS
Then the re-tuning starts.
Made a harness, went SURPRISINGLY painless with a Wal-Mart crimper lol
Installed all new o-rings, lubed everything up.
And dropped em in. Had to re-seat one of them after pressurizing the rail.
Total install time working slowly: 1.5 hours.
Need to figure out a good 12v source for the ebc and run the ground wire to the MS
Then the re-tuning starts.
#1958
- current setup with EFR6258 solenoid:
* boost input coming from barb on pipe leading to throttle body (silicon hose is the vertical one on the left of the "B" and routes behind the socket into the solenoid
* the horizontal hose on the right of the solenoid that extends down is the relief/dump barb; most EBC installation guides recommend orienting this down to prevent crap settling in it so I added the hose to do achieve the same thing
- previous setup with GM solenoid (painted Wrinkle-Black since the blue top section looked out of place):
#1960
So thanks to your guys suggestions and special thanks to Curly, I finally got my EBC working tonight.
Car runs decent, definitely lots of things to touch up with the tune after the ID725 install, but I think I'm just going to use up the remainder of this tank of 91 by dialing in open loop boost and then really start tuning with a fresh tank of corn juice
Car is a hoot now that it holds 10psi to redline.
Car runs decent, definitely lots of things to touch up with the tune after the ID725 install, but I think I'm just going to use up the remainder of this tank of 91 by dialing in open loop boost and then really start tuning with a fresh tank of corn juice
Car is a hoot now that it holds 10psi to redline.