Unless

 

winning

 

FIELD TRIP TO THE TRACK

https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...4/#post1220723

had so much fun. will go again soon.

 

So today I'll be adding a vacuum/boost source port to the post-turbo charge pipe and hooking up the DIY EBC sometime this week. Then hopefully starting on the harness for the ID725's.

The plan is to keep boost around 10psi, but broaden the threshold as wide as possible with the ebc. Then get Launch Control working, and dialed in, and try the track again and see if I can push a 13.5 on this setup The car certainly has it in her, buy my '60 is just sad with all the wheel spin. 2.3 is worse than FWD

 

Sack up, y0!

Vteckiller2000 ran a 12.7 with my old car. Only difference in setup was a very slightly larger turbo.

 

Just saw this post, didn't read much before/after, but on my 99, it started in 1 revolution when I had the ford EDIS ignition system. Bump the key and it's on.

Basically that system is "sync'd" as soon as the missing tooth event happens, as it had a 36-1 wheel and it sent the RPM signal to the MS2, so MS saw RPM worst case, after 1 revolution.

I had my priming pulse fairly large, and MS2 turned on fuel pump at key-on.

So basically key on, priming pulse gives it a shot of fuel, within 1 rev it sparks from EDIS and Bam, it starts. Literally on the key for about .25 seconds, way way way faster than stock. It was like starting a carb'd vehicle that was just shut off hot, it fired right up.

 

I think the key there is the 36-1 maybe.
I played with prime pulse to the point that it would flood/kick back and still no fast start. Wasted like a week on that with the last car.

I'm convinced (as are others) that the stock ecu has built in tables for this sort of thing where it doesn't rely as much on sync to fire....also another table to deal with hot restart return-less injector heat soak issue.

 

36-1 shouldn't matter, it's just how long it takes to sync up. With the ford setup, as soon as it sync'd you had spark, and with wasted spark that was at worst 1 revolution. With sequential and a stock timing wheel on cam that too should be worst case 1 revolution.

 

Well, it isn't. I dunno why.
I'm ready to try any settings under the sun, as I think I've tried most of them. With the last car I spent literally a week messing with it upon every cold and hot start

 

Is your car setup/wired to turn the fuel pump on at key on? IE key on, you hear the pump cycle on for a few seconds? Does your car hold fuel pressure when the key is turned off? A failing/failed 1 way valve in the pump can cause it to loose pressure/prime which will cause starting problems as fuel pressure isn't where it should be.

Send me your tune, I'll check it out.

 

I swear I want to just leave my car at your house for like a week and let you fiddle with it. You have so much more patience for this stuff than I do.

 

So why post trubo and not pre-TB?

 

I'm switching to ev14's soon and will start working on the tune then, and will send.
Every once in a blue moon I do this crap. with the current car/setup, it's not as bad as previous car/setup, so I've been putting it off for weeks now lol
Otherwise I'm either lazy, distracted, or a combination of both
cause I was swapping that pipe anyways...no real reason. with ebc it wont matter.

 

If you don't mind, send it now anyways. I'd like to check it out for my own use too. I'll glance and see if I see any obvious errors in the fuel or spark side that would cause slow starting.

 

Today I had a spare 2 hours and decided to finally ditch the OEM injectors, and maybe wire in the EBC.

Made a harness, went SURPRISINGLY painless with a Wal-Mart crimper lol
Installed all new o-rings, lubed everything up.
And dropped em in. Had to re-seat one of them after pressurizing the rail.


Total install time working slowly: 1.5 hours.

Need to figure out a good 12v source for the ebc and run the ground wire to the MS

Then the re-tuning starts.

 

does anyone using ID725's know if this dead time is correct?

 

I think you can use the 12v from the stock ebc, it's the same signal wire as the ebc signal on the aux plug. Much easier to wire!

 

+1, mount the solenoid on a bracket in the factory position and the factory wiring's right there:

- current setup with EFR6258 solenoid:

* boost input coming from barb on pipe leading to throttle body (silicon hose is the vertical one on the left of the "B" and routes behind the socket into the solenoid
* the horizontal hose on the right of the solenoid that extends down is the relief/dump barb; most EBC installation guides recommend orienting this down to prevent crap settling in it so I added the hose to do achieve the same thing

- previous setup with GM solenoid (painted Wrinkle-Black since the blue top section looked out of place):

 

WAIT, seriously?

So just wire in the EBC to the 2 OEM BCS wires and that's it?

What about the drop down in TS? Which output did you use?

And lokiel, that looks great, thanks for the visual. Are you using PNP-Pro too?

 

So thanks to your guys suggestions and special thanks to Curly, I finally got my EBC working tonight.

Car runs decent, definitely lots of things to touch up with the tune after the ID725 install, but I think I'm just going to use up the remainder of this tank of 91 by dialing in open loop boost and then really start tuning with a fresh tank of corn juice

Car is a hoot now that it holds 10psi to redline.