shuiend

iTrader: (24)

So time to part it out and sell?

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

On Batch squirt for cranking, does the MS automatically reduce each pulsewidth to 25% of the setting, or do you have to do that?

Yes, I'm really so lazy I want to know before I try it. BUT, in exchange, I promise that within a week, I will publish my complete(ish) treatise on EAE tuning.

richyvrlimited

iTrader: (1)

It's automatic. the car reverts to untimed batch injection, so the PW's are halved but each injector fires twice as often.

Personally I think an option for simultaneous injection, (i.e. all 4 at once) would be even better for improved startup. I'm pretty sure Reverant scoped the stock ECU and found that is what it does when cranking.

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Batch during cranking on the MS3 fires all the injectors, not just half of them.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

Yeah. I tried it this AM. And it does divide the pulse by 4. At 60*F the car started quite well at batch, probably better than sequential, with no other changes. However, at operating temp, it was awful. Normally at operating temp I start in 2-3 events, rather than 4 events. So maybe helped at 60, ruined 190, without further adjustments. All with 1mS priming (just to get pre-start of pump for consistancy).

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Interdasting. Well mine seems to be abotu the same hot or cold, just takes a few more cranks to fire.

I did lower the idle valve cranking pw to see if I was just getting too much air on startup resulting in lean-ness, but that didn't seem to help much either.

Back to experimentation.

I think this is going to be my biggest concern/issue/obstacle to overcome now, cause overall the car runs great now with just little things to improve on here and there.

I'm gonna start messing with cranking fuel next

curly

iTrader: (25)

I'm fairly new to cranking settings, as a lot of my early experience was with my NA, which has no idle valve. That's being fixed once I upgrade to an NB engine, but that hasn't happened yet. My point is, take what I say with a grain of salt.

Cranking duty for the idle valve seems to be the easiest way to get it to start "easily", however it's pretty easy to tune in too much duty, and it'll rev too high for a while until CL idle takes over. Lowering the cranking duty seems to easily go from the above situation to barely starting (2 cylinders?) before CL idle takes over and raises it. Even if you get it just above your idle target, it'll still occasionally sound unhealthy for a second or two. Again, this is all my experience, your results may vary.

Long story short, I'm getting the feeling that the fueling aspect of cranking is going to dial in your starts to be closer to stock behavior.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

/\ Actually, so far that has been exactly what I've noticed too. Lowering it did get it to start "smoother", but not faster, unfortunately.

I'm really curious if anyone has a NB that starts as fast as OEM on MS. Not "good enough", not "good, but I don't have a comparison", but actually as fast.

Startup is really important to me because of how often I use it, all my driving is basically really short/frequent drives that involve turning on/off the engine more than your average joe.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

Mine almost always fires withing 4 events (about 0.7 seconds after sync). It is how pretty it goes from there that I'm working on. EAE was affecting that in horrible manners, but I have that better now as well, by seriously reducing sucked from walls at low temperature (which makes sense anyway).

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I have EAE disabled right now, and the car surprisingly runs completely fine without it.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

Here are 2 screen shots of nearly the same action, one with EAE on, and one EAE off. Yes, it is somewhat subtle, but I think you can see the difference. I do not disagree that the Miata is very forgiving of AFR as far as transient drivability is concerned, but the EAE does do what it says it will, keep the AFR's better on target during transient conditions.

EAE OFF:


EAE_ON

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Oh for sure.
I just think its one of those things you do pretty much after the car is tuned and you're just shooting for flawless perfection.

BTW: I got my AE much MUCH better, turns out my scaling was wrong (too soon for the 1st point) and I needed way more fuel in the later points. I'll post up screen shot later. The short drive I just took showed significant improvement in smoothness and throttle uptake

Also I added a little more cranking pw and think that got a little better too.

Overall I'm just so very happy with the car now hoping that nothing changes and it's always this smooth

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

Post 55 for my first start of the day at 38*F. This is getting very close to where I want to be.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I've been enjoyin the car too much the last few days to even fiddle with the tune anymore, aside from the slightly longer startup, it just runs soo good

Anyways, I got a different intake:


and made this to delete the MAF
[IMG][/IMG]

Also ordered one of these:


Honestly don't know what to do about staying on pump gas and just not doing anything else, or throwing in the id725's switching to e85, and probably needing a stronger clutch very soon

Also might hit the track this wednesday.

ofspunk7

I am in the same boat as you. I loved my WRX on E85. I ran it that way for years. However, the Miata has a smaller gas tank and outside of the metro area here, the gas stations are limited. The WTQ is great with E85, and the engine benefits are nice too. Just not sure if I would rather have the freedom to take long trips to find nice roads... or run E85 and stick to the metro area.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I hear you, but in my case I don't really mind the limited availability since I never drive this car far. For me it's the fact that I'm near the limit of pretty much the whole car. The turbo is near maxed out, the stock clutch is likely maxed out, and with e85 I'd definitely be at the limit of the stock rods too. And once I start upgrading stuff, the slope gets REAL slippery

I'm going to try to see what she runs in the quarter tomorrow, as is, and go from there. If I break into the 13's and trap close to 100, considering this is just a stock MSM with literally a handful of bolt ons, I'll probably keep it as is. Again, I'm really happy with how simple and effective this car is, and enjoy it so much

On another note, I'm definitely going to start tuning EAE next: driving it around every now and then I can definitely feel some spots/places where it needs it. Mostly upon initial throttle tip-in when taking off from a light. It takes just a split second longer to react than I like, and I'm sure EAE would cure exactly that little flat spot.

ofspunk7

Yeah, no need to push the stock stuff.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Just keep boost around 10psi or less, which should be 200hp and 200ft/lbs, these setups more or less make equal hp/torque.

From what we saw with Laz, 225ft/lbs will bend the rods eventually with tracking. I'd stick to 210ish or less personally.

They love Manely rods though

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Yes, but he won't have it long enough to put rods in it

18psi

iTrader: (76)

ha
It's at 9.5psi now, and already tapers to 8.5 at redline. As for building, I just don't really care anymore. My corvette and subaru already make so much more power that I've no desire to make this thing stupid fast. I'd only build it if I blew it up in it's current state lol