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Old 11-12-2010, 10:31 PM   #901
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where were you sourcing the bulkheads from?
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Old 11-12-2010, 10:38 PM   #902
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where were you sourcing the bulkheads from?
TSB just told me to look at Jameco, but I'll probably wait and get Savington's GF's opinion later when she comes over. Maybe I should use VGA cable and plugs, lulz.
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Old 11-12-2010, 11:54 PM   #903
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TSB just told me to look at Jameco, but I'll probably wait and get Savington's GF's opinion later when she comes over. Maybe I should use VGA cable and plugs, lulz.
There's some very nice german connectors that always advertise in an auto engineering mag we get at work - I'll have to reference the name. I think it started with an F.

Little pricey but they're ****.

-Zach
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Old 11-20-2010, 08:26 AM   #904
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IMF I wish I had video. The group was black flagged for debris, then I spend 30-minutes rowing through a sea of modern Porsches, Vettes on r-comps, GTR's, finally to spec Boxters. The spec Boxster were real work considering I didn't know the track and was giving up a full second in at least one corner.

I also drove the car in that stint for 45-minutes straight...oil temps never crept past 210 at the most, so now I can rejoice and block off some of th inlet to get some eat back in the oil.

Catch cans get weird stuff in them. My oil is golden brown, yet the catch can is half black nastiness, and half clear water-like stuff and they don't mix. I'm getting about 5-ounces every 2-hours so that's happy-tlime especially considering I'm only using 4-6th and seeing 6200rpm in 6th, lol.
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Old 11-20-2010, 08:27 AM   #905
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IMF I wish I had video. The group was black flagged for debris, then I spend 30-minutes rowing through a sea of modern Porsches, Vettes on r-comps, GTR's, finally to spec Boxters. The spec Boxster were real work considering I didn't know the track and was giving up a full second in at least one corner.

I also drove the car in that stint for 45-minutes straight...oil temps never crept past 210 at the most, so now I can rejoice and block off some of th inlet to get some eat back in the oil.

Catch cans get weird stuff in them. My oil is golden brown, yet the catch can is half black nastiness, and half clear water-like stuff and they don't mix. I'm getting about 5-ounces every 2-hours so that's happy-tlime especially considering I'm only using 4-6th and seeing 6200rpm in 6th, lol.
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Old 11-21-2010, 11:33 AM   #906
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Catch-can fail yesterday. On hard lefts I'm guessing the oil feed in the head is feeding the baffle on the passenger side of the head because I was overflowing the catch can. I guess I'll plug that side, enlarge the port on the driver's side of the head, then run another -10 line on that side too.

Any other ideas?

I only had to jack the car up once over the two track days because I cracked a rotor at the end of the day on Saturday. Then I put the Napa rotors on and ran the last session with no problem.


It looks like the Trackspeed kit with Napa rotors with the venting get the job done at 250whp with no aero. My Hawk DTC-60's are going to last at least 6 track days, lol. $60 pads + $30 rotors = win (I guess that's roughly $20 in brake parts per track day)
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Old 11-21-2010, 12:07 PM   #907
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http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&sour...4,9.876709&z=7

746 Miles, 14-hours commuting, roughly 220 miles or 3 hours on the track, an Unlimited Miata challenge trophy...and just one cracked rotor. This is getting romantic.
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Old 11-21-2010, 01:44 PM   #908
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Catch-can fail yesterday. On hard lefts I'm guessing the oil feed in the head is feeding the baffle on the passenger side of the head because I was overflowing the catch can. I guess I'll plug that side, enlarge the port on the driver's side of the head, then run another -10 line on that side too.

Any other ideas?
I suspect what's happening is you're filling up the head some from sustained high rpm use. Street car manufacturers count on cars slogging along at relatively low rpm with lots of stop and go so they allow plenty of oil up into the head so the cams are always well lubricated. When you run the engine at high rpm for sustained periods you get too much oil up there since you're well out of what they'd consider "normal" use.

On a car that didn't see street use I'd say restrict the oil going to the head. For yours I'd first try to angle your -10 fittings up as much as possible going out of the valve cover, might get the line up high enough that raw oil doesn't just flow down the lines in hard corners. If you could re-do them so they came off the top of the valve cover rather than the sides, even better. A slightly smaller restrictor up to the head might work ok, but I wouldn't overdo it since your car is dual purpose. If that doesn't work, next time your engine is apart I'd enlarge the oil returns as much as I possibly could.

EDIT: Looking at the pics you posted, unless the perspective is messing me up it appears like you could run the -10 nipples straight up from the top of the v/c to the 90* fittings... if that's the case I'd do it.

Or you could just go baller and dry sump it...
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Old 11-21-2010, 01:52 PM   #909
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Well if its pure oil, why not braze a AN fitting on the bottom of the can and route it back to the oil pan through an inline filter. If there is water/condensation in too...too bad.
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Old 11-21-2010, 07:40 PM   #910
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Well if its pure oil, why not braze a AN fitting on the bottom of the can and route it back to the oil pan through an inline filter. If there is water/condensation in too...too bad.
Because whatever side is loaded then gets oil pumped up the return. I battled with this on Matt's car. I may plug one side, go to the track, and see what happens. It didn't start until I learned to take a couple left corners with more speed and load.
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Old 11-28-2010, 11:14 PM   #911
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It took 7+ hours but I now have poly bushings on everything, no rubber bushing anywhere on the car. This job is a huge pain in the ***, never do it. The car is grossly out of alignment but it feels much more crisp over cracks in the road. It's not "rough" but you can drive over a paperclip in the road and feel it through the seat. I'll do the zerk fittings later when my body recovers from all that work. Manual and I don't get along.
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Old 11-28-2010, 11:32 PM   #912
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I agree. I will never do poly bushings again. I will pay someone first.
That being said they are great once they are in.
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Old 11-29-2010, 12:25 AM   #913
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lol, glad I warned you huh?
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Old 11-29-2010, 03:30 AM   #914
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Originally Posted by hustler View Post
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&sour...4,9.876709&z=7

746 Miles, 14-hours commuting, roughly 220 miles or 3 hours on the track, an Unlimited Miata challenge trophy...and just one cracked rotor. This is getting romantic.
High Five on the trophy!

Stupid question... did you feel the cracked rotor or catch it on visual inspection?

Next time you're down that way, have the decency to take OSR to Normangee and follow FM39 to Mexia, then pour one out for Anna Nicole when you get there . Lots of empty stretches of nothing to haul-*** through, and it's waaaaaay off the radar. If you need bends, you might find FM1512 an entertaining detour.
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Old 11-29-2010, 08:52 AM   #915
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I felt the rotor crack/pulse when I pulled off the track for the cool-down...I guess it had one too many heat cycles. The other side was close behind on cracking too from a visual inspection.

I may take that route some time, but I don't really tear *** in the country in fear of wrecking my car.
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Old 11-29-2010, 09:47 AM   #916
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Let me know when you "zerk" the bushings... I still haven't done mine yet either.
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Old 11-29-2010, 12:06 PM   #917
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[QUOTE=hustler;656540]-10 considering the size of the ports/baffles. The can is Jeg's house brand and $60 with the mount. /QUOTE]

Link to the can please? I searched Jegs for a while and saw nothing that looked like yours.
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Old 11-29-2010, 01:06 PM   #918
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Old 11-29-2010, 01:10 PM   #919
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you can get the same thing in summitracing brand for a little cheaper.
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Old 11-29-2010, 01:39 PM   #920
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Do you have the valve cover baffles in place still? If so, are they stock? No drain/vent holes?
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