Mis-wording on my part. I want to learn in a proper set up, I'm just not sure I could decipher the subtle difference between a stock and MSM bar given my skill level.

The last thing I want to do is plunk down $$$ on track time with the intentions of learning only to be using the wrong tool - hence the investment in the monos, es bushings, etc.

The instructor I'd like use has a lot of miata seat time, albeit in SM; however, he'd at least notice if something seemed particularly 'off' with the set up.

Anyone, I'll stop hijacking your thread.

-Zach

 

It's more than a subtle difference. When the car becomes a part of you and you and the car entering and exiting a corner becomes a motor function, it's pretty sweet.
The last "SM driving instructor" I had in my car was a total ******* moron. He told me to brake off-line, bitched because I didn't always run the momentum line, and thought each time the BOV opened I was WOT. You probably know more than you think you do.

 

that's probably with the rb hollow bar. (stiffest front bar) i have the rb solid bar and can't run my rb rear bar, too much oversteer. i run no rear bar, and was thinking about trying my stock bar back on the rear, or buying the rb hollow and trying the msm rear.
i saw that in the pic trey, i was wondering what that was. explains your understeer in some corners.

 

You can even see the wear on the rear rotors in that shot, lol.

 

I saw that but didn't think anything about saying something. I just figured you had unhooked it for the track.

 

Haha yeah same here, thought he unhooked it for a reason.

 

Running no-sway bar is for women.

Tim,
You should update your site with my newer, ultra-stylish pics. You should also add that I've worked on my engine/hot-parts 3-times in 2 years only to "check" the turbo after ~25-hours of seat time.

 

Hey I run no rear sway bar (RB solid front). Then again the last alignment was back in '02 when I got my first suspension and the car was slammered. And I'm running 205 tires and ~280rwhp. Oversteer is everywhere.

I will update my site with your pics, you have a bunch of real nice ones with your new paint and bumper.

 

I just rebuilt/reassembled the right rear park brake, and it works. I also made another plastic shroud for my oil cooler, maybe this one will stay together and I'll get below 240*f oil temps.

 

Pics of shroud?

Also, are you still doing oil analysis? I have been running rotella sythetic and am about to send a sample off to blackstone to see how my bearings are doing.

Speaking of which, what bearings are you running again?

 

It's ugly, I'm going to I'm going to redo it this week.

Chinese bearings with the heat treatment stripes, repacked with Amsoil grease.

I did this today:

 

What brand links did you have?

 

Now I have 949, I had stockers and TDR. BTW, that's not the sway bar link after looking a 3rd time, it's the PPF bolt that fell out. Two failures in one day...and now that noise is explained.

 

I found this old log that shows how awesomely this car drives on the highway:

 

Holy shizmo timing. I only run that much timign @ 4000rpm @ 140kpa. I haven't tried to find MBT but still that's lots of timing. win

 

interesting MAT reading.

 

69-71*f, only 1* change on this log.

 

Finally put on the TSE biggest brakes:

 

Manly times
Brake cooling will be next

 

It's already done. There is only one local track where the brakes couldn't stop the car so I bought these, it should work at ECR every lap now.